You get the first one in the pictures. The original one with 3" flex pipe.

I picked up the 2 sample boxes. Will be test fitting in how parts fit in them in a little bit.

Works for me. Thanks.

Sample boxes and test fitting. Taken with my potato. Box sizes and weights are as follows 41"x23"x12" 35LBS, 70"x14"x8.5" 27LBS.
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Cats coming to inspect.
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The 2 different transition cones. I like the one on the left better.
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2nd box is going to be a problem with UPS (length X girth exceeds 165"). Will cause it to need to go Freight. UPS Freight? Not sure what that does cost/time.

Text from UPS site when I input box sizes:
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"You have indicated that at least one of your packages is more than 165 inches (length plus girth), where girth is 2 x width plus 2 x height. The service that you selected can only be used to ship items up to 165 inches in total dimensions. If you have incorrectly entered the dimensions of your package, you can go back and correct the dimensions. Shipments exceeding 165 inches in total dimensions must be processed using Freight."
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Actually, using the UPS formula it looks like both need to go freight (UPS Freight is OK but not sure what that does to time en route.)

I don't care as long as it gets here...

Edit : Transposed numbers so wrong information. Duh!

I would be interested to see if freight is cheaper. I am more than happy to wait longer to save some money as long as it is significant enough. As always great progress Lars. You da man!

Did you input the values correctly? The calculation of length (70) + 2x width (28) + 2x height (18) is well under 165. I had no issues when putting that into the rate calculator. It's a billing weight of ~55 lbs instead of 27 due to dimensional rates.

On a separate note, I'm in for 1.6 when/if it happens.

UPS online did not throw any errors when I put in the lengths and weight. When I first did boxes before redesign it did. Billing weight for both boxes ends up going up a good bit in their system, but that is fine for me because it allows extra weight for packing material and such.

The box for the axle back is currently bigger then the size I have posted. I am going to get them made to the new size just to cut down on random movement room in the box and such.

I was hoping to get to the 1.6 setups sometime in April. Right now the 2 flanges I had made do not fit properly and I am having another machinist look into making them. Not sure when I will get any from him.

Likely my fat finger got in the way. No big... Edit: Yup, transposed numbers.... :facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:

Like I said in various PM's. It'll be what it'll be. Just get it here is all.

When I shipped axle backs before, I had Home Depot cut a hardboard panel the size of the box outline + drilled a few holes for 11" zip ties (Harbor Freight cheap) and zip tied the exhaust to the hardboard panel. No movement at all in X, Y or Z. You don't want the box outside to be the only support for the part or you risk damage.

Even the big boxes are shippable with UPS ground. I stopped by a UPS store today with them and had them measure and check for sure. Going to place my order for the correctly sized ones today. Hopefully by the end of next week I am officially shipping setups.

This weekend I am at VIR to smoke some meat for these guys. So I don't expect to get much work done this weekend. Next week I am looking forward to getting going on getting everything done.

Huth 984 End Shaper for Repairing Dented Exhaust Tubes up to 3 inch

I was looking at one of these after retuning the crappy HF expander bit, I could have sworn I had found a cast iron version for around 40 bucks but my google-fu is weak today.

I bet you'll split the seam unless you heat it like crazy, but I figured it'd split small enough to just run a bead down it.

Ported turbo
 

Decided since I'll be waiting a few more days for the remainder of the kit to do some porting on the turbo.

The tools. Don't forget to wear protection....

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...iata/tools.jpg

And I decided to use carbide burrs instead of the usual grinding wheels because a. Dremel and b. cut the time down and c. why not...

Bought them from here: 10pcs Solid Carbide Burrs for Rotary Drill Die Grinder Carving Bit Tool Set | eBay. All things considered for $13 total I'm impressed in the quality (I'm in the carbide tooling business).

After pic (sorry, no before pic);

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/..._gate_port.jpg

The RH side of the port was actually quite a bit higher then it looks here. Also, the wall thickness of the casting is only about 1/8" until you get well into the housing so I opted to mark a line to ensure I wouldn't get into a problem area (SHUIEND had shown a minor oops earlier on his). The length of the carbide burrs helps a lot getting down inside the housing.

The flapper hole is quite a bit smaller then the flapper itself (14mm vs 28.5mm) but it's tough to see if it's centered on the flapper or not. Also, I remember reading elsewhere in a thread about the flappers potentially catching on the hinge side if the hole edge was too close to the flapper edge so I opted to open the hole up but more to the non-hinge side.

I put a circle to illustrate where I took the material out. I could've gone more I guess.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...per%20hole.jpg

So, all in all the actual porting only took about 20-30 minutes (the carbide burrs are awesome). I'll smooth the surface a bit with normal abrasive wheels before re-assembly.

Most of the chips...

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...iata/chips.jpg

These chips get everywhere. If your going to reassemble the unit in the same spot take the time to clean up everything so you don't end up with crap inside your Churbo...

Great start but remember to make that valley leading up to it. Like Scott said it needs to be like an on ramp that begins early and widens as it reaches the wastegate. A couple weeks ago I used this method on my buddies turbo and we got it to hold pressure flat as fuck. I was really impressed at how making that v shape valley that leads up to the turbo helps smooth flow. Also when we went to tune closed loop boost we noticed a reduction in I and D terms that were needed before.

So this is what I HAD ON MY 2560R it was ok and held flat with PID but needed quite a bit of I and a little D.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427637321

This is on the chinacharger that Lars sent. I didnt get a pick of the one of my buddies but the porting is very much the same. Holds super flat and very easy to tune PID.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427637321

The first setup was finished last night. Tonight I go out and buy all the packing material I need and get it boxed up. If everything goes according to plan it will be shipping tomorrow. Proper size boxes have been ordered. I am hoping they are done by the end of the week. So next week I can get several orders out.

I am also working on getting made what everyone really wants, STICKERS!!!!!!! Hopefully I have those done before to many setups go out, if not I will send some out to everyone who has purchased a setup.

I want those stickers right meow.

uline.com is the only place you need for packing materials.

I will be getting materials from them in the future. I needed stuff tonight, so I went to Lowes. Working on packing up the first setup now.

First setup is boxed and ready to ship tomorrow.

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Are those poly hangers I see in the background? And if so, where are they from and how much do they cost? After a few hundred miles I've decided I think I need them. Also, pics. Also, I think my trans is leaking. I should probably figure out where from...

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Happy to see some good updates Lars!