No, he's supposed to buy one for me to install before the dyno.

Yeah. I have mine in and tried to play with it and was like nope. But I need to build some det cans as well. All the reading on it seams to lead to it being rather difficult to get working enough to trust your motors life with. I am mostly looking long term for when I build a motor.

I don't have any experiences with reverants boxes. I'll be installing the knock module from diy auto tune.

Aidian, would you mind posting a picture of your timing correction graph/values? Im just curious as to what your RPMs look like. And thank you for being so patient, I really do appreciate it.

Edit: Im in the process of uploading a video to youtube so you can see what is going on.

Yeah, I'll try and remember later. I think im just using the DIY basemap values. Dont remember exactly.

Play with it. You want to advance timing to raise RPM, and retard to drop rpm.

Here is a random graph pulled from a random tune on my work computer. It may or may not work. But it gives you an idea of the curve.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b2b7f0f3b8.png

Dat auto correct doe (^_^)

I fixed it too late. hah.

Here is the video of whats going on. Make sure to watch the WHOLE thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfbG...ature=youtu.be

The idle drops when the fan kicks on.

Idle up fan control.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...03c523c4c4.png

Increase idle-up duty and delay until it works better.

I dint even know that existed. I am going to read the manual once I get a chance so I'm not pestering anyone anymore. THANK YOU for helping me out with everything guys!

Lessons learned today. I had no less than 5 places where the down pipe and exhaust were making contact. It sounded like a fucking war zone.

1. If you have sad ass tired motor mounts then shit will rub with 3" stuff.
2. Go ahead and hammer these two areas next to the trans just for good measure. Both places were rubbing in my case. Here they are hammered in the pic.
3. Go ahead and cut the rear shelf just in case or hammer it down a little. Mine was not rubbing but it was close and I wasn't fucking around today.
4. If you think it may rub in a place it WILL rub there.
5. Just get the damn low profile jack from the start. Fuck driving the car onto wood blocks to get the stupid ass standard jack under the car.
6. When you have your wife pick a house because you are out of the country for work. DO NOT COMPROMISE WITH HER AND GET A SINGLE CAR GARAGE. I have been working on this thing in a cold wet drive way.
7. Don't adapt a 90/91 used 3" exhaust onto your NA8 even if it is a good deal. Just pony up and get something nice guaranteed to fit.
8. Do have a wife that will crawl under your car and hold up your down pipe for you while you attach the V band to the turbo (3 times now).







https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d658950601.jpg

I think my shit is eating coolant. I have whitish exhaust at idle but it doesn't smell like coolant and it has been a little colder outside lately. I do not see any obvious leaks in the engine compartment. I ran it first week or so without a overflow tank so it may have been pushing it out. I added a overflow and it was bone dry and a little low again. I am going to try a block tester at auto zone tomorrow to see if it is a head gasket issue. If not then I may go the UV dye direction. Car has been running around 180 on the freeway and low 200s when at idle for extended times. Fan kicks on at like 203 and gets it to 197 in a minute. I added a piece of cardboard in front of half the radiator and now it is running 190 on the freeway.

What temp thermostat are you running? I'd do a coolant pressure test, it'll tell you if you have a leak. Is that the block test you're referring to?

I dropped the ball on the thermostat. I have like 3 and tested some a while back. When I put this reroute in I can not for the life of me remember what the hell I put in it. I am sure it is gonna have to come off soon. Now that I relocated my coils it is not too bad to get in there. Block tester I was referring to is the deal you put on the radiator filler neck for 2 minutes with a fluid that detects exhaust in your coolant. Just want to rule out a head gasket burning fluid.

I will try and pressure test it today as well.

Head gasket is good. Also found a perfect hose for my reroute for only $10. Pumped about that. Vato zone doesn't rent pressure testers so I need to find a place that does. I didn't want to pay up the $75 to buy one.

AAANNNNDDD I broke it. I have no spark. Drove it to vato zone. Tested the coolant for exhaust in the parking lot. Drove it back and parked it. Hour later Swapped my upper radiator hose. Went to start it to top off the coolant. It started to catch for a second then NOTHING. Just cranks. I smell fuel in the tail pipe. I hooked up a timing light off my truck battery and and nothing while cranking. Tried all the plug wires with the timing light. Checked all the fuzes I could find for continuity with my voltmeter under the hood and under the dash. Next step?

Could be an issue with MS?

Nope. My MS3 is rock solid and built by the baddest man on the planet. I am a fucking idiot. I just fixed it. I temped in my coil wiring using shitty plastic connectors while waiting for my GM extension harness. Well it was working fine so I said fuck it and rubber taped over everything and left it. Well it worked right up until it didn't and the blue coil power unplugged itself inside the rubber wrap. That is what I get for being lazy with my wiring.

Could be worse...

All shrink wrapped and soldiered with waterproof clips and shit now. Won't happen again.