Really bad. My garage was added later. It didn't even have power until I dug a small trench and tapped into a existing 110 in a spare bedroom. It is already taxed. When I use my air compressor it trips the circuit pretty easy. I will get to my house wiring at some point. I could probably weld off a heavy gauge extension cord run to the house.

I'm considering upgrading my new 02 miata to this kit with a 6258. will be running stock engine, vvt, 3" exhaust, ms3, FF640cc injectors.

car currently has Begi cast log, gt2560r and a 2.5" Begi dp.

Car is mostly street, once a month autox, and a track day or two a year.

would there be faster low end spool? better top end? low, mid range compared to my 2560?

any dynos comparing 2560 and 6258?

Comparing those two, the 6258 will have the same or better spool, better top end, and better transient response than a GT2560R. The transient response above 4000rpm is as good or better than a GT2554R, and that's what you really feel on the road. The 6258's boost onset and power delivery is buttery smooth on the road, and it results in a car that feels strong even way down at 2500rpm. The boost never "kicks" - it builds smoothly and never surprises you. To get the same characteristics in a Garrett frame, you need a GT2554R, and the EFR will kick out another 75whp+ over that turbo.

Stop right here.

You just might need to reassess some few things before upgrading unless you just want to ave the kit on hand for when you throw in new rods, maybe even pistons.

Thanks for the response, i actually found a few dyno charts from a few years ago when FM compared the 2560 to the 6258 and under low/mid level boost the spool and power output was pretty identical.

I am mostly tempted by the manifold design, and 3" downpipe that will mate to my 3" exhaust, hoping that TSE manifold and 3" dp combo might contribute to faster spool and more power per PSI, since better flow and such....

Good point. i do like the 2560 and its a good turbo for stock engines, i think i better build the engine first and then do the TSE kit, as at stock engine powers, both setups are pretty close. EFR seems to outrun the 2560 at power levels north of 250-275.

My opinion on that testing is less than positive. They tested both turbos at very low boost and at altitude. If you did the same testing at sea level and with EBC on both turbos, I expect the results to favor the EFR. Maybe I'll get around to this someday (just found a GT2560R that's been hiding in the shop).

I would expect our manifold and downpipe to outspool and outflow FM/BEGi parts, yes. Our design is simply better.

You will reap the response benefits of an EFR even on a stock engine. I would do the turbo first, then the engine.

Thank you, i am pretty set on the TSE kit, decisions decisions.

I didnt mean to hijack the thread, i just noticed that i didnt post in the TSE pre order thread....

last question, so i wont clutter up this thread, NB kits in stock now? or there is a wait?

I would also do turbo first then engine. I have the 6258 TSE kit on my 03, so VVT, 640cc Flow force Injectors, MS Labs MS3, and I will very soon have a full 3" system (right now its 3" downpipe to stock mid pipe which then dumps straight out). I think with this setup at 10psi the car is perfect for the street. Just the right amount of power. I think I'm at about 220whp? I haven't dynoed it yet.

Thats pretty much my exact build specs, but with a 2560r currently, pushing 10-12 PSI, dynoed 217hp, power is good, but i want a bit more, i think the sweet spot is about 240-250

10psi is about 200hp in my experience.

i found that virtual dyno is pretty spot on to a real dyno, as long as you set all the parameters correctly. (weight, wheel size, gearing etc...),
weight the car at a truck scale, run virtual dyno in a 4th gear pull, then take off midpipe and do another 4th gear pull, and you will see how much you will benefit from a 3" exhaust.

Clutter away. I gives no shits.

The smart move for you is to build a motor.

Smart, maby. Fun....no

Is that on Tunerstudio? And can you just roll into any truck stop and weigh your car? People are saying the truck stops aren't accurate. Apparently dump (scrap metal) scales are better

Why not do both? Rods and TSE?

So finally got everything together. Went out and did some auto tune. My hot idle is pretty decent. Warm up is a little poopy. It is pissing rain so I can't really get into it. I have the low canister at like 3mm preload. I am seeing 7 PSI and it holds on that. I spent 30 minutes easing into it slowly. I haven't pushed it hard yet and don't plan on it anytime soon. I am going to leave the timing alone until I can get it on a dyno because I am a big giant pussy. My exhaust is smacking around and making a racket so it is distracting. I will fix that tomorrow. I also don't know how anything is supposed to sound so every noise scares the shit out of me. It is pig rich right now and auto tune is pulling fuel every run. My AFRs are still in the high 10s at this point at 150 kpa. Definitely quicker even without trying.

Is your idle oscillating when warm?

Not really no. I have my fuel blocks set pretty close in the 4 blocks that my idle is at. Same with the timing. If you have that problem it could be your timing.

I don't think its timing because it only does it after it warms up from a cold start.

What does it idle at? what is the timing set at near those blocks? Try setting the timing all the same from like 500 to 1400 and 20 kpa up to 55 kpa and see if it stops. When I had that problem thats how I was able to see if it was a timing issue. After I set my 800 and 1100 rows at all at 10 flat from 20 up to 50 it went away. Feel free to post your Tables. Keep in mind I am not even close to being an expert at this. We just have very similar set ups.

This is what I'm at now:
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/a...x.png~original