The Cobalts have more bite than the EBC yellows I tried previously. I think the PFC have a higher initial friction level than the Cobalt XR3. Maybe too aggressive for HPDE?
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Originally Posted by wannafbody
(Post 1270347)
The Cobalts have more bite than the EBC yellows I tried previously. I think the PFC have a higher initial friction level than the Cobalt XR3. Maybe too aggressive for HPDE?
you don't match the pads to the event, you match the pads to your tire. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1268769)
I would. The improvement in pedal feel alone is worth the upgrade, IMO. Running costs also drop slightly.
e: A BBK is virtually required to extract max potential from a 200whp Miata. BTDT Stock 1.8L pads, 1.8L calipers, race pads, 220whp, 5sec under SM record, 5 sessions at Laguna: Outside: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../DSCN1355.jpg? Inside: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../DSCN1356.jpg? |
^that is from using the wrong compound. too low of TQ. the tire over powered the pad temperatures skyrocketed and melted everything.
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Originally Posted by OGRacing
(Post 1270559)
^that is from using the wrong compound. too low of TQ. the tire over powered the pad temperatures skyrocketed and melted everything.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1270562)
No. It was from using brakes (specifically rotors) that were too small for the application. Those were high-end race pads with an MOT of ~1650*F.
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Not interested in saying which pad, because people will misinterpret those photos and think poorly of the pad brand/compound when the reality is that no pad would have withstood that abuse. I do not sell the brand, but I used them in Wilwood calipers successfully, and they are extremely popular in the Miata world.
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I have to say, that despite the knocking that EBC pads get, my EBC yellows looked much better than that on 1.6 rotors, when I removed them. Granted, I'm not the fastest driver but my co-driver is pretty darn good so I know he put some heat in them.
Cobalt XR3 are a medium torque pad. Here's Advance Autosports take on it... "The new PFC compound was supposed to replace the PFC 97 compound and be comparable. The 97 compound was made unavailable. After running this new compound in 2014 the verdict is that they aren't as good as the old 97 compound. Advanced Autosports was able to convince PFC to make 97 compound pads for us because of the feedback we received from our customers. We will still be selling the PF11/PF14/PF08 compound pads, but we recommend you purchase the 97's instead." I dunno. |
Here's Cobalts pad list and what competitor pads are comparable.
1994-2000 (Cobalt-Optimized pad design) The Cobalt XR3 and PFC 97 and I assume new 11 are listed as comparable pads. |
Originally Posted by wannafbody
(Post 1270599)
I have to say, that despite the knocking that EBC pads get, my EBC yellows looked much better than that on 1.6 rotors, when I removed them. Granted, I'm not the fastest driver but my co-driver is pretty darn good so I know he put some heat in them.
Cobalt XR3 are a medium torque pad. Here's Advance Autosports take on it... "The new PFC compound was supposed to replace the PFC 97 compound and be comparable. The 97 compound was made unavailable. After running this new compound in 2014 the verdict is that they aren't as good as the old 97 compound. Advanced Autosports was able to convince PFC to make 97 compound pads for us because of the feedback we received from our customers. We will still be selling the PF11/PF14/PF08 compound pads, but we recommend you purchase the 97's instead." I dunno. Here is my experience with them on the Lexus: -Their initial bite was worse than the AC Delco $20 pad that we used to test fit our new pad shape. -They required ALOT of pressure to stop, so low COF. -They increased pedal travel considerably at the same braking force. |
I don't have an issue with initial bite on mine, anything on my car will require a lot of pedal pressure due to setup, and i don't have much pedal travel to begin with.
That said, i would NOT recommend anyone use these on a Miata. There's better out there for similar price, they DESTROY rotors at a rate that's hard to believe, and the cold, lukewarm, warm, and almost hot performance is incredibly terrible. They just flat out don't work until they're almost smoking. And when they're not smoking, they're working as a cheese grater on your rotors. |
Brakes ????
EBC have good marketing and availability, that's it.
There might be an application where anystuff are not terrible, but there will always be better options. |
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1269007)
<p></p><p>Motherfucking yes. I just installed dynapros on a 11.5" mini cooper rotor. Took it to the track on monday and holy shit, the feels. It was amazing compared to my old spongy 1.8 front calipers. I wasn't afraid to brake later and later, and they inspired a lot more confidence. As a novice and still learning how to drive on a track it made a huge difference in my confidence.</p>
Full weight MSM (well, more with the Blackbird GT3 roll bar) 190rwhp 11.75" front dyanapro with PFC 01s and 2.5" ducting Stock sport brakes, rear, with XP8s, SS lines. Motul 660 fluid Stock MC NT-01 (205s) on 6UL The pedal feel change was amazing even daily driving. I could brake super late which for me, not "racing" for time, adds mad fun and overall I have amazing confidence in the system (I was told this could get even better with more aggressive pads). I almost replaced my MC thinking this was the issue until I made the change. |
Originally Posted by tazswing
(Post 1271268)
Yes. This.
Full weight MSM (well, more with the Blackbird GT3 roll bar) 190rwhp 11.75" front dyanapro with PFC 01s and 2.5" ducting Stock sport brakes, rear, with XP8s, SS lines. Motul 660 fluid Stock MC NT-01 (205s) on 6UL The pedal feel change was amazing even daily driving. I could brake super late which for me, not "racing" for time, adds mad fun and overall I have amazing confidence in the system (I was told this could get even better with more aggressive pads). I almost replaced my MC thinking this was the issue until I made the change. |
Originally Posted by tomiboy
(Post 1271326)
Do you have ABS? Do you run a Prop valve
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Originally Posted by tazswing
(Post 1271268)
I almost replaced my MC thinking this was the issue until I made the change.
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Originally Posted by tazswing
(Post 1271336)
MSM with full ABS. This weekend on a dynamic track (aka one with actual elevation changes) I did not notice any interference from the ABS with this set-up. If the ABS 'pulsed'/engaged I never felt it (which does not mean much coming from the blunt instrument that i am).
--Ian |
Is there a big performance difference between the dynalites and the dynapros
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Not sure, have not driven them back to back.
I'm running Dynalites, SS lines, 11" rotors, ATE 200 and XP8s. The 11" is not that much terribly larger than stock, but I felt like ditching the stock caliper was key.
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1269007)
<p></p><p>Motherfucking yes. I just installed dynapros on a 11.5" mini cooper rotor. Took it to the track on monday and holy shit, the feels. It was amazing compared to my old spongy 1.8 front calipers. I wasn't afraid to brake later and later, and they inspired a lot more confidence. As a novice and still learning how to drive on a track it made a huge difference in my confidence.</p>
Originally Posted by tazswing
(Post 1271268)
The pedal feel change was amazing even daily driving. I could brake super late which for me, not "racing" for time, adds mad fun and overall I have amazing confidence in the system (I was told this could get even better with more aggressive pads).
Specific example: On turn 5 @ MRLS a lot of guys are braking all the way back at the bridge but when I'm out there by myself, I can brake between the #3 & #2 marker and carry MUCH more speed through the corner before heading up the hill. The confidence boost is insane. Getting away from the stock caliper is key. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1272124)
Specific example: On turn 5 @ MRLS a lot of guys are braking all the way back at the bridge but when I'm out there by myself, I can brake between the #3 & #2 marker and carry MUCH more speed through the corner before heading up the hill.
(depends on power/tires/aero) |
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