Originally Posted by dasting
(Post 1274511)
No.
Massive rotors (applying more torque) and dtc60 pads (extremely high mu, meaning more torque) means you're putting a lot more torque (funny how that works) on slowing down the wheel than with smaller rotors and less aggressive pads. This locks up wheels easier. R7s resist lock up better than old crappy street tires. Yes, the rotors are better at dissipating heat, and the pads are better at operating at a high heat. Yes, you get more torque from bigger rotors and aggressive pads. So... be more gentle with the brake pedal? We're only talking about a ~ 20-30% difference in braking force here. Putting HP+ on the car is just a recipe for fade and melted pads. --Ian |
Tried out Hawk's DTC50 pads over the weekend in the front, prior was 60.
I like them better than the 60s, modulation was great and bite was just slightly less. Wish I would've had them sooner in the season. Definitely a factor in my 1st place wins both days in E, as well as a new track record. :) |
Originally Posted by JSpeed6
(Post 1274609)
Tried out Hawk's DTC50 pads over the weekend in the front, prior was 60.
I like them better than the 60s, modulation was great and bite was just slightly less. Wish I would've had them sooner in the season. Definitely a factor in my 1st place wins both days in E, as well as a new track record. :) that was the point i was trying to get across to everyone. more is not better. |
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I have been running the wilwood Dynalite's with stock 1.6 rears for a while. Running willwood's H compound in the front and some porterfields r4's in the rear. It has been working but even with a prop valve i am not getting enough bite in the rear. Thinking of changing front and Rears out for something new. I do like the initial bite of the H pads but i would like more modulation. wish i had a way to test multiple pads at once.
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Originally Posted by JSpeed6
(Post 1274609)
Tried out Hawk's DTC50 pads over the weekend in the front, prior was 60.
I like them better than the 60s, modulation was great and bite was just slightly less. Wish I would've had them sooner in the season. Definitely a factor in my 1st place wins both days in E, as well as a new track record. :) |
HT10's
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Originally Posted by JSpeed6
(Post 1276681)
HT10's
Running XP8f/AX6r currently no prop valve and I experience some rear lock-up under heavy braking(T1 and T10 at ViR, T7 at Road Atlanta). I turned the rebound down(faster) in the rear and that helped some. I suppose I've been on RS3s the whole time too, so R7s would be a different story. |
Originally Posted by flier129
(Post 1276691)
Running XP8f/AX6r currently no prop valve and I experience some rear lock-up under heavy braking(T1 and T10 at ViR, T7 at Road Atlanta). I turned the rebound down(faster) in the rear and that helped some. I suppose I've been on RS3s the whole time too, so R7s would be a different story. I am using XP10F/XP8R with RS3's/Rivals (no abs or prop valve) and this setup works really well for me. The seem rotors develop "heat spots/patches" after every track day but Carbotech said that is normal as long as there is no vibration/feedback. |
Originally Posted by k1l4m
(Post 1276930)
I am using XP10F/XP8R with RS3's/Rivals (no abs or prop valve) and this setup works really well for me. The seem rotors develop "heat spots/patches" after every track day but Carbotech said that is normal as long as there is no vibration/feedback.
I had this problem on stock brakes, bought the 949 BBK, still have this problem. robert |
I ran carbotechs for years with zero bedding problems, other than the fact that every set of pads felt veeeeery slightly different. I finally fucked up the bedding process on a set last year and was never able to get them to come back to life. I've always bedded pads on the street, but I tried to bed that set during the first laps of the first morning session and I overheated them. I started paying the extra for the "pre-bedded" option after that and have been really happy. Every set of pre-bed pads has felt exactly the same and worked perfectly right out of the box.
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Originally Posted by jpreston
(Post 1276961)
I started paying the extra for the "pre-bedded" option after that and have been really happy. Every set of pre-bed pads has felt exactly the same and worked perfectly right out of the box.
What is your process for bedding a new rotor? This time I am going to try XP12/XP10. Maybe I just don't have the right pads. I've also tried ducting, which I do think helped a bit. robert |
^Repeated 70-10 stops until the pads stink and the pedal goes a touch soft.
Let cool completely. Done. |
Originally Posted by z31maniac
(Post 1276994)
^Repeated 70-10 stops until the pads stink and the pedal goes a touch soft.
Let cool completely. Done. robert |
Flip side, is if you don't like them, maybe you should try something else?
Then again being in a 1.6 Miata with Wilwoods at all 4 corners only used at Hallett, it's not like they were ever seeing a ton of heat. |
Originally Posted by z31maniac
(Post 1277025)
Flip side, is if you don't like them, maybe you should try something else?
robert |
So what are the conditions when they aren't working? Or is it seemingly random? You don't drive your Miata on the street much do you? I thought I remembered reading somewhere (so don't take this as gospel) that street driving and the cold temps will messup the transfer layer.
If I can make up my mind about tracking the BRZ, I bought Winmax W5 pads to try. But I haven't installed the other necessary parts to take it to the track. And I don't think I will this season. |
Originally Posted by z31maniac
(Post 1277073)
So what are the conditions when they aren't working? Or is it seemingly random? You don't drive your Miata on the street much do you? I thought I remembered reading somewhere (so don't take this as gospel) that street driving and the cold temps will messup the transfer layer.
Realistically, I should slap some Hawk stickers on there and try some DTC-60/30s since the contingency would pay for my brakes. robert |
Originally Posted by wannafbody
(Post 1268809)
Originally Posted by OGRacing
(Post 1268793)
no, race pads shouldn't wear evenly front to rear. not something you should consider when building a system.
if you have a time attack car that did two laps a weekend. then we could look into running smaller rear pads (and calipers) for less unsprung weight. |
Originally Posted by robertcope
(Post 1276945)
I get those same heat spots every time, too. Eventually it feels like shit. I feel like a moron at this point, a) for continuing to buy Carbotech pads, b) for apparently not being smart enough to make it work while everyone else seems to be. I know they're being bedded properly. If not, they're the most ridiculous pads to bed in ever.
I had this problem on stock brakes, bought the 949 BBK, still have this problem. robert |
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