I use those in the RX7. Whatever version of them I have was considerably brighter than the factory RX7 lights/bulbs. I even night drove with them through Robbinsville, NC without issue.

 

Awesome, thanks for the feedback. I have been exchanging a few emails with Blackbird lighting to see what a universal kit would run, but I have a feeling its going to be more than I want to spend.

These Hella's seem like a pretty viable option, especially given the price tag. I did a bit more digging and found that you can increase the light output in the Hella units with some mods too.

 

I pulled the popups on my track car and run El Cheapo autozone plastic driving lights mounted on aluminum brackets. Certainly lighter than the OEM lights, but the light output is pathetic. I don't like driving it at night, they don't throw light very far at all and the pattern sucks. Certainly wouldn't attempt any night time track driving with them, but they are at least DOT and bright enough to not get pulled over, which was really my only intention in case I needed to drive it at night. Those Hellas look pretty nice in comparison.

 

Thread bump.
I am replacing my drivers side door after an accident backing out of my garage. I used it as an excuse to get accurate weights for a bunch of door parts:

The car is a '95 with manual windows and manual mirrors

 

The weight of a door in grams is pretty hard for a reader to visualize thank goodness you included conversion to lbs.

Yeah, even a gutted door is beefy. Much weight to be saved there.

-Ryan

 

My gutted doors are not beefy

 

Definitely less beef. Might be some pork or lamb mixed in with that one.

That's about as drastic as one goes with the oem door. Mind sharing the weight of that one?

-Ryan

 

I'm running the CCP fiberglass doors and according to my highly accurate bathroom scale they were less than 5lb each before I bolted on the latch and hinges, compared to my gutted door that was just over 20lbs each. Though I wouldn't recommend the doors unless you have a full cage, preferably with a NASCAR style door bar as there is no structure in them to protect you.

 

Sorry, no idea.

 

So who gor rid of the whole trunk floor ? Did you add some aero work while doing it ?

 

Yeah, 1993somethingsomething has. And some cool aero to boot. Don't have a link right now though.

 

I haven't weighed it yet but I'd be surprised if the bucket section alone is 5 lbs. The weight seems to be mostly in the boxed sections.

 

post #242

 

On our 97' chumpcar the trunk floor weighed 9lbs. Replaced it with the thinnest sheet of aluminum(excluding foil) I could find and riveted it in.

 

For a racer or a track only car, do most of you: 1) remove the rear bumper understructure? 2) build a nerf bar out of tube steel? Or, do you run with the factory Aluminum bumper bracing?

 

I'm guessing this is an NB, since NAs don't have the aluminum piece.

I'd say leave the factory. Free, requires zero time, lighter than Steel, and won't transmit as much force to the chassis in a smaller impact.

 

Racers will leave OEM so they don't cave in the bumper covers in bump drafting. Less important for a HPDE car.

 

Yup. All the SPM's have OEM front and rear bumper supports for "convincing". Our HPDE cars have none.

 

I wanted to get a lithium battery until I spoke with a Miata racer in COMSCC (summer 2015) who said that his caught ablaze. The fire crew just filled his trunk with water and waited for it to burn out. No serious damage, but he is back to lead. I am not saying it will, but I have not heard of lead on fire.

I read the whole thread, but I did not notice the intake manifold brace. Is that one obvious? I plan not to remove but drill it. I am in the camp that it must have some useful purpose even for track cars.

I am putting my DE NB on a diet this off season. I have been pondering what is truly necessary for me and it is enlightening.

 

Drilling the intake manifold brace is probably a waste of time. I weighed it at 1.72lb when I removed it. Best case scenario from drilling it you remove .5 lb.