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Old 07-17-2011, 09:29 PM   #181
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Originally Posted by mousee View Post
Does the drivetrain need to remain stock(ish)? If not, why not rip the engine, tranny and all associated crap out and throw in a ninja zx-10r engine in and throw a turbo on the bitch. 166 hp stock... with like a 10,000 or somefin redline. Wouldn't be too hard to convert the chain drive. That'd save you what? like 4-500#?

More along the norm, tubular subframe(s)? Tubular lowers? Manufactered spindles instead of cast?
Why not? Because that's retarded.
430lbs ≠ ~2000lbs
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Old 07-18-2011, 01:55 AM   #182
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Why not? Because that's retarded.
430lbs ≠ ~2000lbs
I should just really post "yer face is retarded!", but I ain't...
It always cracks me up when someone blurts out "that's retarded" without anything else intelligent to add. So, we can assume you're a fifth grader?

I'm gonna take these outta order here. First off, I never said it would be comparable to a sportbike, so yer comment is just stupid.
Ok, let's do some assumptions and figuring just for fun. This thread is about shaving weight for better track handling. My stockesque miata runs like what, ~125hp? currently weighs 2340#. I know I can shave 300# without too much effort. Now, let's assume we can shave another 500# with engine, tranny, and stuff. Now we are talking a 1500# car. Let's add an engine with another 35hp or so... See the picture? I also said in my original post to turbo the ninja engine, I have no idea what you can pump these up to safely so I didnt comment on that. The only place I can see were this would suck would be the torque, kinda anemic.
So, now that you have the full picture of what I was saying, you can safely sit inside yer sheeple box and stfu!
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Old 07-18-2011, 02:18 AM   #183
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First off, you won't save 500lbs.

Secondly, you won't have reverse.

Thirdly, you won't have any torque to move your car.

Fourthly, it's cost prohibitive. We do have tubular subframes, no one that can afford them is going to start with a miata.

Fifthly, you're an idiot.

Sixthly, drop it or I'm warning you. Start another thread if you'd like to talk about motorcycle engine conversions.
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Old 07-18-2011, 02:49 AM   #184
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First off, you won't save 500lbs.

Secondly, you won't have reverse.

Thirdly, you won't have any torque to move your car.

Fourthly, it's cost prohibitive. We do have tubular subframes, no one that can afford them is going to start with a miata.

Fifthly, you're an idiot.

Sixthly, drop it or I'm warning you. Start another thread if you'd like to talk about motorcycle engine conversions.
1st-k. Was just a guesstimated number thrown in.
2nd-easily overcome
3rd-I agree, just an idea.
4th-k just an idea
5th-bite me.
6th-k. No prob. Just a question and an idea. Sorry for pissing on the thread. I will speak of this no more.
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:39 AM   #185
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Weighed my car and it comes in at 1840 with a 3/4 tank of fuel and has a near perfect 50/50 split after corner weighting. I will post up a picture of the car as it sits now to give a reference tonight.
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:50 AM   #186
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On the bike-engine topic: http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/showthread.php?t=33723

They use the stock Miata transmission (for gearing purposes; using a bike transmission pretty much doesn't work), and overall save about 150lbs (and do not have the engine turbo'd). I'm adding this ONLY for a more accurate idea of how much weight you'd get rid of.
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Old 07-29-2011, 02:42 PM   #187
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I'm in the very early stages of this process but for you hardcore dudes, IDK what the nasa rules are but can you Tube the front end from like strut tower forward? A lot of drift cars do that front and rear to save weight but add rigidity/simplicity


I know its a 240 but

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Old 07-29-2011, 03:44 PM   #188
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Originally Posted by Dlaitini View Post
I think removing the soft top, but then adding weight lower for a lower c/g will work better... the further from the center of the car, the less total over all weight to get your corner weights.

From an article on the iRacing forums, in NASCAR, they could make the cars really light weight, but due to their weight requirements.. they bond tungsten (sp?) to the bottom of the gearbox, so any weight it does have is as low as possible and still ends up weighing 3800 lbs
IIRC Tungsten is about 1.7 times heavier than the same size item made of lead. 2.5 times steel. It's even denser than Uranium by ~4%.
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Old 08-27-2011, 02:07 PM   #189
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Gutted my doors. Car is still streetable, so I needed to retain the option of having glass, so the windows can now be set into place for security or pulled out for competition in 5 seconds.

I had aftermarket speakers which are a bit heavier than OEM speakers, but not much. Total weight saved from both doors: 52.5 lbs

Then I pulled the amplifier as well as all audio related wiring throughout the car. Saved another 12 lbs.

So I pulled out 64 lbs with this project







And before anyone comments about safety, door bars are forthcoming.

-Ryan
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Old 08-27-2011, 02:12 PM   #190
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Originally Posted by rharris19 View Post
Weighed my car and it comes in at 1840 with a 3/4 tank of fuel and has a near perfect 50/50 split after corner weighting. I will post up a picture of the car as it sits now to give a reference tonight.
Caged? If not, you're cheating.

Black car is ~1975lbs dry, no driver, with a full cage, fire system, aero, and turbo. Weight distribution is awful, though, 55/45. I have considered tubing the front half of the car to fix this, or having a carbon front clip fabbed. (droolz.)
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:29 PM   #191
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Took some weight out this weekend. doesn't look it, but thats 57 #

still door glass to go

Where to remove weight from a track only car?-thumb_m_img_20120226_151130.fromraw.jpg
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:44 PM   #192
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Caged? If not, you're cheating.

Black car is ~1975lbs dry, no driver, with a full cage, fire system, aero, and turbo. Weight distribution is awful, though, 55/45. I have considered tubing the front half of the car to fix this, or having a carbon front clip fabbed. (droolz.)
That was not caged. The 94 lemons car is at around 2020 with a full tank and all equipment in it. I am trying to lose another 100lbs out of it starting with dropping the OEM exhaust for an SM exhaust that will meet sound limits of 92db.

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Originally Posted by jasonb View Post
Took some weight out this weekend. doesn't look it, but thats 57 #

still door glass to go

Attachment 35217
It's amazing how quickly things add up and you get some serious weight off the car. You have a target weight? It seems like mine is always 5lbs less than I am now.
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:01 AM   #193
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That was not caged. The 94 lemons car is at around 2020 with a full tank and all equipment in it. I am trying to lose another 100lbs out of it starting with dropping the OEM exhaust for an SM exhaust that will meet sound limits of 92db.
thats a nice # but i don't think i'll hit 2020. one idea for exhaust: if you don't have anybody who makes a 92db spec exhaust local you can ask tc design for a laguna (seca) exhaust. i think he is supposed to make a pretty nice one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rharris19 View Post
It's amazing how quickly things add up and you get some serious weight off the car. You have a target weight? It seems like mine is always 5lbs less than I am now.
true that. I was hoping electrical plus the hardware plus the door glass would net me 86lbs and get the car down to 2200 wet. that is looking good and i'm looking for anything else easy too. the motivation for the electrical is actually because i inherited a rats nest of bare dangling wires. so i want to remove some fail.

a secondary interest is to see if i can get a good f/r weight distribution after adding some new turbo hardware (3071gtx). car has an aluminum block motor so i was gonna give it a shot and see what happens.
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:22 AM   #194
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Thanks for the exhaust tip
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:12 PM   #195
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hook mod. props to brian h for donating the sacrifice.

cut the hook off first. then drill rivets (do as i say not as i do )



scootch it to one side and cut with body saw



scootch and cut other side. lower portion pulls right out.



upper portion is bigger so use your tin snips and cut off a little bit.



then it also comes out


results in




almost half a pound


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Where to remove weight from a track only car?-img_20120304_141723.jpg   Where to remove weight from a track only car?-img_20120304_144158.jpg   Where to remove weight from a track only car?-img_20120304_140456.jpg  
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:43 PM   #196
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I've honestly kept that solely because it's an epic place to hang my work light.
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:33 PM   #197
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doh! ok, np. i gives u dual position curly light hook. fold down when car borken, fold up when car working. maybe just leave it folded down.



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Old 04-12-2012, 05:01 AM   #198
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Curious about the terms some are using here: "wet" and "dry" - does this refer only to the amount of fuel in the car at the time of weighing, or for a "dry" weight are you guys calculating the weight of the oil, brake fluid, coolant, etc. and subtracting that from your car's weight?
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Old 04-12-2012, 05:36 AM   #199
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Originally Posted by ThePass View Post
Curious about the terms some are using here: "wet" and "dry" - does this refer only to the amount of fuel in the car at the time of weighing, or for a "dry" weight are you guys calculating the weight of the oil, brake fluid, coolant, etc. and subtracting that from your car's weight?
Dry = full fluids EXCEPT gas

Wet = full fluids INCLUDING gas
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:36 AM   #200
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Weighed my car with ~2 gallons of gas in the car, and passenger seat.

2080 lbs

So removed passenger seat w/ bracket and harnesses, which I do for events, gets me to 2048.

Dry weight (1 gallon gas ~ 6lbs) is then ~2036 lbs

Items that add weight: cage, turbo, intercooler, oil cooler, 3" exhaust, sideskirts, front end aero and splitter, diffuser, rear spoiler...

I think that's fairly respectable for a car that can still be driven on the street to and from events that has a lot of additional weight from the aero and turbo.

-Ryan
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