Where to remove weight from a track only car?
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Fake Virginia
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Newb
Joined: May 2008
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From: Europe
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I didn't see it mentioned and I know most of this forums about keeping it cheap BUT the v8 roadsters front subframe is supposedly good for 10 lbs ....right where you'd want to lose it.
You could also look at using aluminum or nylon hardware for all non-critical connections (e.g. - fenders, dash, etc.). There's a couple motorcyle vendors that sell a lot of lightweight metric hardware in alu/Ti. Not really worth the effort IMO.
-Zach
You could also look at using aluminum or nylon hardware for all non-critical connections (e.g. - fenders, dash, etc.). There's a couple motorcyle vendors that sell a lot of lightweight metric hardware in alu/Ti. Not really worth the effort IMO.
-Zach
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Why the hell and who the hell would someone want to make a new harness? Dozens of people have documented their miata race car build, and do no such thing. Snowboarder is the first and only I know of that's done anything but just use the stock harness and cut out unneeded wires. And I think all he did was cut the harness where it went through the bulkhead and put a connector there.
Seriously, WTF. Myself, Savington, Keith's Targa build, FM's Track Dog build, Bbundy....Who's advising this!?!
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Wha...? This post is two grammar errors away being warned, and only one idiotic statement.
Why the hell and who the hell would someone want to make a new harness? Dozens of people have documented their miata race car build, and do no such thing. Snowboarder is the first and only I know of that's done anything but just use the stock harness and cut out unneeded wires. And I think all he did was cut the harness where it went through the bulkhead and put a connector there.
Seriously, WTF. Myself, Savington, Keith's Targa build, FM's Track Dog build, Bbundy....Who's advising this!?!
Why the hell and who the hell would someone want to make a new harness? Dozens of people have documented their miata race car build, and do no such thing. Snowboarder is the first and only I know of that's done anything but just use the stock harness and cut out unneeded wires. And I think all he did was cut the harness where it went through the bulkhead and put a connector there.
Seriously, WTF. Myself, Savington, Keith's Targa build, FM's Track Dog build, Bbundy....Who's advising this!?!
Last edited by old_s13; Aug 9, 2010 at 01:05 PM.
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I ******* know you can trim down the harness and make it lighter, I've done it. Your original post, if you can read, suggests making a completely new one yourself, not modifying the original, as everyone else does.
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Newb
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Waller Tx
In my years I've seen many efforts to lighten a race vehicle, some included whaleing bolts and or rifle drilling some parts. If you don't understand the term whaleing, think of a bolt that fits a bushed bore. It could be an alternater bolt or a PPF, the part of the bolt that does not need to be the bushed size can be reduced. Yes it is alot of work to chuck a bolt in a lathe to remove a few grams, but it does add up.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Republic of Dallas
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To be fair, he was getting an exorbitant amount of **** for something which is pretty ******* common outside of this forum.
There's something to be said about the custom harness in my Dad's vette - no looming and everything is tightly bound and zip tied every 4 inches. In 40 seconds you can trace any wire back to the fuse box which is mounted right on the dash.
If you really wanted to minimize wiring weight in any vehicle/product/house the goal is to bundle components which are 'communicating' with each other as close as possible in order to minimize wire length. I have not messed around too much with the harness under the dash, but I assume Mazda made compromises for the sake of packaging and maintenance which results in a harness which is longer than actually needed in a gutted track car.
We're probably taking grams here of course.
-Zach
There's something to be said about the custom harness in my Dad's vette - no looming and everything is tightly bound and zip tied every 4 inches. In 40 seconds you can trace any wire back to the fuse box which is mounted right on the dash.
If you really wanted to minimize wiring weight in any vehicle/product/house the goal is to bundle components which are 'communicating' with each other as close as possible in order to minimize wire length. I have not messed around too much with the harness under the dash, but I assume Mazda made compromises for the sake of packaging and maintenance which results in a harness which is longer than actually needed in a gutted track car.
We're probably taking grams here of course.
-Zach
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1
To be fair, he was getting an exorbitant amount of **** for something which is pretty ******* common outside of this forum.
There's something to be said about the custom harness in my Dad's vette - no looming and everything is tightly bound and zip tied every 4 inches. In 40 seconds you can trace any wire back to the fuse box which is mounted right on the dash.
There's something to be said about the custom harness in my Dad's vette - no looming and everything is tightly bound and zip tied every 4 inches. In 40 seconds you can trace any wire back to the fuse box which is mounted right on the dash.
Fat ****.. haha
Last edited by old_s13; Aug 9, 2010 at 01:06 PM.
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