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Old 08-27-2010, 12:11 AM   #81
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I swapped to a Canadian Non Airbag column and combo switch and dropped ~4 lbs. The column is lighter the mounting bracket is lighter and there is no knee bolster metal backup plates under the dash.

My car is still heavy it weighed 2283 with no fuel in it and the hard top off. At Packwood national tour this last weekend.

Bob
How did you reconcile the differences in both the plugs between the '90 US wiring and the early Canadian combo switches? And how did you reconcile the wiper wiring? It seems like you'd have to rewire all the turn signals and wiper to make them work with the Canadian combo switch.
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Old 08-27-2010, 12:59 AM   #82
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Back to Double O 86's question. I don't have windows anymore and I simply reach over the door and unlatch the door from the pull handle or from inside the door I pull down on the linkage that runs from the door handle to the latch.
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Old 08-27-2010, 01:04 AM   #83
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We used some plastic coated steel cable for the doors on our racecar. One end connected to the latch, the other end across the door through a hole, pull cable to release latch and open door.
+1. I have a cable attached to the latch, and when I push on the cable it catches the latch just before it reaches the skin of the door and the door swings open.

I also used similar cable and an adjustable turnbuckle to support the doors after removing the crash beams (NASCAR bars on both sides of my cage).
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Old 08-27-2010, 03:00 AM   #84
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This is a very bad idea. There is a reason why Al is rarely used for electrical conductivity. Al in it's pure form is very highly conductive, but Al oxide is not at all. The ends of the wires will corrode into Al oxide, the resistance in the wire goes up and with it comes lots and lots of heat. Like enough heat to set something on fire, melt through the battery, etc.
interesting. i knew you had to treat the exposed wires to keep them from oxidizing, but i didn't realize that heat was that problematic. my house is full of aluminum wire as well as the leads on my welder.

geez, i had better check the connection on my oven. when i replaced it last i forget if i put anything on the wires to keep them from oxidizing. its pulling 30A i think, so that might be a problem

@rharris: when did they stop using aluminum wire in residential houses? mine is 12ish years old and is full of it.
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Old 08-27-2010, 10:39 AM   #85
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What, do you just put in an Aluminum fire wall?
(G)
Yes sir. I just need to see how much weight there really is in that area and if it merits the time to do it. I have a couple scrap cars here I am going to cut up to see how much is there.
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Old 08-27-2010, 10:49 AM   #86
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@rharris: when did they stop using aluminum wire in residential houses? mine is 12ish years old and is full of it.
If your house was built 12 years ago, then it has some variation of an aluminum alloy and not just aluminum like in the 70's. That is safe, but you do have to take a few more precautions than normal. The main thing you have to watch out of is called cold creep. This is where the wire gets hot and cold several times quickly and actually expands. This can cause problems down the line if you aren't careful, but mainly is only a concern when you have a circuit that is blowing a breaker fairly often.
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Old 08-27-2010, 01:48 PM   #87
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aluminum wire=cheap *** fail and fire.
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Old 08-27-2010, 04:31 PM   #88
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okok, you made me google. i think the al idea got a fail without a fair shake.

Quote:
Delphi Aluminum Cable is a cost-effective cable, lightweight wiring alternative that offers up to 48 percent mass reduction compared to traditional copper core cable. Approximately pound (227 grams) of aluminum can replace 1 pound (454 grams) of copper
http://delphi.com/manufacturers/auto...bles/cable-al/

So it is being marketed. I cannot find any references to real world battery cable tho. I suspect that the al cable is going to be 30-40% bigger and eat into the weight savings.
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Old 08-27-2010, 05:03 PM   #89
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It doesn't need to be any bigger from what I understand. Aluminum is very conductive and a standard size battery cable would suffice.
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Old 08-27-2010, 08:10 PM   #90
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How did you reconcile the differences in both the plugs between the '90 US wiring and the early Canadian combo switches? And how did you reconcile the wiper wiring? It seems like you'd have to rewire all the turn signals and wiper to make them work with the Canadian combo switch.
I had to re-wire everything. You also have to use a canadian wiper motor. The switch logic for vurtually every function of the combo switch is inverted with the canadian non air bag switches.

I also took every unused wire out of my harness, no warning buzzers, AC, cruse, Air bag etc.

Bob
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Old 08-27-2010, 08:20 PM   #91
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+1. I have a cable attached to the latch, and when I push on the cable it catches the latch just before it reaches the skin of the door and the door swings open.

I also used similar cable and an adjustable turnbuckle to support the doors after removing the crash beams (NASCAR bars on both sides of my cage).

Does the door get too floppy if you cut out the side impact beam? I am thinking of taking some weight out of my door somehow.

Bob
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Old 08-27-2010, 09:20 PM   #92
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Does the door get too floppy if you cut out the side impact beam? I am thinking of taking some weight out of my door somehow.

Bob
Yes. You can remove essentially everything except the impact beam, but once the impact beam goes the door will not support itself when it's open.
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Old 08-30-2010, 03:54 PM   #93
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Yes. You can remove essentially everything except the impact beam, but once the impact beam goes the door will not support itself when it's open.
This is good to know before I started hacking.

Bob
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Old 08-30-2010, 10:57 PM   #94
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Yes thanks for that. Until I have a full cage with door bars it is probably a good idea to leave them in anyway.
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Old 08-31-2010, 02:29 PM   #95
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Trunk floor. Replace with a thin aluminum panel or get daring and move the radiator back there.
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Old 08-31-2010, 03:33 PM   #96
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get daring and move the radiator back there.
pics or it didn't happen
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Old 08-31-2010, 06:09 PM   #97
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i did that on our shop crx with ls/turbo swap. works alot better. gonna road course test it soon.
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Old 08-31-2010, 11:17 PM   #98
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If I added a transmission and/or diff cooler, that is where I would put them, in the trunk, with some creative, preferably downforce augmenting ducting system as a bonus.
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Old 09-01-2010, 01:17 AM   #99
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I don't know about the radiator in the trunk idea... You would need more coolant and longer hoses which would add weight and it wouldn't get any air through it.
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Old 09-01-2010, 01:21 AM   #100
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I don't know about the radiator in the trunk idea... You would need more coolant and longer hoses which would add weight and it wouldn't get any air through it.
Not that I'm saying it's a good idea, but you don't exactly leave the trunk area stock when putting the radiator back there. We know that much.
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