Where to remove weight from a track only car? - Page 4 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Go Back  Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats. > Performance & Tuning > Race Prep
Reload this Page >

Where to remove weight from a track only car?

Race Prep Miata race-only chat.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Where to remove weight from a track only car?

Old 08-13-2010, 08:30 PM
  #61  
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,462
Total Cats: 589
Default

Awesome, simpler than I imagined. I even have that front hole available since I don't run an ignitor. How's it mounted to the firewall? I wouldn't be asking these stupid questions if my car was in front of me. But it's not.
curly is offline  
Old 08-13-2010, 08:35 PM
  #62  
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Canton, Ga
Posts: 1,941
Total Cats: 38
Default

L- Bracket mounts it to the firewall with sheet metal screws. small ones with philips heads
Stealth97 is offline  
Old 08-13-2010, 08:46 PM
  #63  
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,462
Total Cats: 589
Default

Sweet, I see it now. I'll be doing this ASAP. Especially since it's free weight savings, I have the aluminum already. Thanks again!
curly is offline  
Old 08-14-2010, 03:17 AM
  #64  
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Incline Village, NV
Posts: 2,033
Total Cats: 5
Default

Originally Posted by spoolin2bars View Post
because this thread isn't about driving technique, it's about removing weight.
i removed lbs. worth of brackets and bolts under the hood. including the washer bottle and heavy bracket that held it and the fuse box. i now just have a small alum. tab holding the fuse box. also part of my winter remodeling will include replacing my heavy steel i/c pipes with an aluminum otr pipng setup, and replace the cat-back exh. pipe with aluminum.

on the wiring, i wish i could have this guy make me a new harness!

http://rywire.com/store/replacement-...ess-p-245.html
After meeting and seeing ryans work in person I was inspired to so a wire tuck on my car. Guy does amazing work!
thesnowboarder is offline  
Old 08-14-2010, 07:53 AM
  #65  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Davie, Florida
Posts: 66
Total Cats: 3
Default

Not even close to street legal, but this turn signal conversion will get you home if your stuck at the track until after dark: http://www.eunos.com/keith/lights.html
For a track car, it's a no-brainer - don't even worry about the turn signal conversion. Headlight covers on my car are now supported with lightweight aluminum brackets, though additional weight can be saved by fabricating covers made from something lighter than steel or running a hood with integrated headlight covers.

Removal of the entire headlight bucket/motor assembly is good for about 9 pounds of weight savings per corner - and the weight is removed from a very desirable place.
CoralDoc is offline  
Old 08-14-2010, 02:45 PM
  #66  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: south texas
Posts: 1,416
Total Cats: 9
Default

Originally Posted by CoralDoc View Post
Not even close to street legal, but this turn signal conversion will get you home if your stuck at the track until after dark: http://www.eunos.com/keith/lights.html
For a track car, it's a no-brainer - don't even worry about the turn signal conversion. Headlight covers on my car are now supported with lightweight aluminum brackets, though additional weight can be saved by fabricating covers made from something lighter than steel or running a hood with integrated headlight covers.

Removal of the entire headlight bucket/motor assembly is good for about 9 pounds of weight savings per corner - and the weight is removed from a very desirable place.
i've done just that ^^^^ since i now have a drop vent/headlight delete fiberglass hood. i used driving lights purchased from pep boy's for $22.00
they are short wide lights, std. reflector, not projector style. if i remove the turni signal housings, i can see great at night. i've actually driven to oklahoma on my setup.
spoolin2bars is offline  
Old 08-14-2010, 10:38 PM
  #67  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: maine
Posts: 221
Total Cats: -1
Default

one thing that grass roots mentioned in the new issue is, cuting out parts of the body and replacing lighter matierials. cut some steel out and rivit in some aluminum panels.
94blackmx5 is offline  
Old 08-15-2010, 03:18 AM
  #68  
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,462
Total Cats: 589
Default

Genesplicer could do that, it'd go with his Jap zero theme. The miata panels are already fairly light. I wasn't a huge fan of their article. Too general. Same with the power article, much too general.

The brake rotor was awesome, too bad almost no one would do that. I'd shave down to minimum thickness though.
curly is offline  
Old 08-15-2010, 09:46 AM
  #69  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: maine
Posts: 221
Total Cats: -1
Default

those brake rotors were pretty cool but that is a lot of work to shave maybe a pound a side, and they will crack, it's just a matter of time.
94blackmx5 is offline  
Old 08-16-2010, 10:23 PM
  #70  
Newb
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 33
Total Cats: 0
Default

I removed my softtop off the car today. Looks better with the hardtop on.
Mr.JayDeeM is offline  
Old 08-25-2010, 08:49 PM
  #71  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 55
Total Cats: 0
Default

Someone asked what the "baby teeth" are earlier in this post... Can someone answer this for the rest of us not in the know?!

As for taking weight out of the car... When I gutted my manual window doors, I cut the door braces out and everything then used aluminum to brace the door skins up. When done I took 30 pounds out of each door!
superl is offline  
Old 08-25-2010, 08:59 PM
  #72  
AFM Crusader
iTrader: (18)
 
olderguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Wayne, NJ
Posts: 4,519
Total Cats: 100
Default

Two tie down hooks in front. Also two in the back, but I don't know if there is a name for them. Hemorrhoids?
olderguy is offline  
Old 08-25-2010, 10:51 PM
  #73  
Elite Member
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4,847
Total Cats: 28
Default

Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
Also two in the back, but I don't know if there is a name for them. Hemorrhoids?
Asswarts? Dingleberries? Klingons?
ZX-Tex is offline  
Old 08-26-2010, 08:43 PM
  #74  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: The Woodlands, TX
Posts: 328
Total Cats: 12
Default

Originally Posted by superl View Post
When I gutted my manual window doors, I cut the door braces out and everything then used aluminum to brace the door skins up. When done I took 30 pounds out of each door!
Do you still have windows?
How do you open the door from the inside?
Double O 86 is offline  
Old 08-26-2010, 09:11 PM
  #75  
I haz no trubo
iTrader: (2)
 
Oscar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Bolton, UK
Posts: 3,024
Total Cats: 118
Default

We used some plastic coated steel cable for the doors on our racecar. One end connected to the latch, the other end across the door through a hole, pull cable to release latch and open door.
Oscar is offline  
Old 08-26-2010, 10:15 PM
  #76  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: onion city,ca
Posts: 413
Total Cats: 2
Default

does anybody make wire with aluminum conductor and automotive grade insulation?

i'm thinking the wire from battery up to starter and couple of other places with biggish copper. aluminum is relatively brittle compared to copper, so you would probably only want to use it where it is fixed to the chassis, i would imagine.

i also see quite a bit of metal thats not being used anymore on my car around where the stock shoulder seatbelt mount was. basically all that metal vertically above the top of the gas tank.
jasonb is offline  
Old 08-26-2010, 11:29 PM
  #77  
Elite Member
iTrader: (41)
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Seabrook, TX
Posts: 2,417
Total Cats: 20
Default

Originally Posted by jasonb View Post
i also see quite a bit of metal thats not being used anymore on my car around where the stock shoulder seatbelt mount was. basically all that metal vertically above the top of the gas tank.
That's what i am looking at right now is all the extra metal around the car. The whole back parcel shelf could be taken out up to the studs for the soft top rain rail. If you have the trunk hinges off then you could really do a number on the area and gut it straight into the trunk area.
rharris19 is offline  
Old 08-26-2010, 11:46 PM
  #78  
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lompoc, CA
Posts: 577
Total Cats: 13
Default

Originally Posted by jasonb View Post
does anybody make wire with aluminum conductor and automotive grade insulation?
This is a very bad idea. There is a reason why Al is rarely used for electrical conductivity. Al in it's pure form is very highly conductive, but Al oxide is not at all. The ends of the wires will corrode into Al oxide, the resistance in the wire goes up and with it comes lots and lots of heat. Like enough heat to set something on fire, melt through the battery, etc.
baron340 is offline  
Old 08-26-2010, 11:50 PM
  #79  
Elite Member
iTrader: (41)
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Seabrook, TX
Posts: 2,417
Total Cats: 20
Default

Originally Posted by baron340 View Post
This is a very bad idea. There is a reason why Al is rarely used for electrical conductivity. Al in it's pure form is very highly conductive, but Al oxide is not at all. The ends of the wires will corrode into Al oxide, the resistance in the wire goes up and with it comes lots and lots of heat. Like enough heat to set something on fire, melt through the battery, etc.
Agreed. When I did inspections for an insurance company insurer, one of the biggest mark ups in premiums were for complexes that still had any aluminum wiring at all.
rharris19 is offline  
Old 08-27-2010, 12:05 AM
  #80  
Junior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: McDonough Ga.
Posts: 350
Total Cats: -26
Default

Originally Posted by rharris19 View Post
That's what i am looking at right now is all the extra metal around the car. The whole back parcel shelf could be taken out up to the studs for the soft top rain rail. If you have the trunk hinges off then you could really do a number on the area and gut it straight into the trunk area.
What, do you just put in an Aluminum fire wall?
(G)
Reverend Greg is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Where to remove weight from a track only car?


Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.