Notices
Race Prep Miata race-only chat.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 949 Racing

Where to remove weight from a track only car?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 13, 2010 | 07:30 PM
  #61  
curly's Avatar
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,168
Total Cats: 1,393
From: Oregon City, OR
Default

Awesome, simpler than I imagined. I even have that front hole available since I don't run an ignitor. How's it mounted to the firewall? I wouldn't be asking these stupid questions if my car was in front of me. But it's not.
Old Aug 13, 2010 | 07:35 PM
  #62  
Stealth97's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,156
Total Cats: 67
From: Canton, Ga
Default

L- Bracket mounts it to the firewall with sheet metal screws. small ones with philips heads
Old Aug 13, 2010 | 07:46 PM
  #63  
curly's Avatar
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,168
Total Cats: 1,393
From: Oregon City, OR
Default

Sweet, I see it now. I'll be doing this ASAP. Especially since it's free weight savings, I have the aluminum already. Thanks again!
Old Aug 14, 2010 | 02:17 AM
  #64  
thesnowboarder's Avatar
Thread Starter
Elite Member
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,034
Total Cats: 5
From: Incline Village, NV
Default

Originally Posted by spoolin2bars
because this thread isn't about driving technique, it's about removing weight.
i removed lbs. worth of brackets and bolts under the hood. including the washer bottle and heavy bracket that held it and the fuse box. i now just have a small alum. tab holding the fuse box. also part of my winter remodeling will include replacing my heavy steel i/c pipes with an aluminum otr pipng setup, and replace the cat-back exh. pipe with aluminum.

on the wiring, i wish i could have this guy make me a new harness!

http://rywire.com/store/replacement-...ess-p-245.html
After meeting and seeing ryans work in person I was inspired to so a wire tuck on my car. Guy does amazing work!
Old Aug 14, 2010 | 06:53 AM
  #65  
CoralDoc's Avatar
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 146
Total Cats: 24
From: Davie, Florida
Default

Not even close to street legal, but this turn signal conversion will get you home if your stuck at the track until after dark: http://www.eunos.com/keith/lights.html
For a track car, it's a no-brainer - don't even worry about the turn signal conversion. Headlight covers on my car are now supported with lightweight aluminum brackets, though additional weight can be saved by fabricating covers made from something lighter than steel or running a hood with integrated headlight covers.

Removal of the entire headlight bucket/motor assembly is good for about 9 pounds of weight savings per corner - and the weight is removed from a very desirable place.
Old Aug 14, 2010 | 01:45 PM
  #66  
spoolin2bars's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,415
Total Cats: 10
From: south texas
Default

Originally Posted by CoralDoc
Not even close to street legal, but this turn signal conversion will get you home if your stuck at the track until after dark: http://www.eunos.com/keith/lights.html
For a track car, it's a no-brainer - don't even worry about the turn signal conversion. Headlight covers on my car are now supported with lightweight aluminum brackets, though additional weight can be saved by fabricating covers made from something lighter than steel or running a hood with integrated headlight covers.

Removal of the entire headlight bucket/motor assembly is good for about 9 pounds of weight savings per corner - and the weight is removed from a very desirable place.
i've done just that ^^^^ since i now have a drop vent/headlight delete fiberglass hood. i used driving lights purchased from pep boy's for $22.00
they are short wide lights, std. reflector, not projector style. if i remove the turni signal housings, i can see great at night. i've actually driven to oklahoma on my setup.
Old Aug 14, 2010 | 09:38 PM
  #67  
94blackmx5's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 221
Total Cats: -1
From: maine
Default

one thing that grass roots mentioned in the new issue is, cuting out parts of the body and replacing lighter matierials. cut some steel out and rivit in some aluminum panels.
Old Aug 15, 2010 | 02:18 AM
  #68  
curly's Avatar
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,168
Total Cats: 1,393
From: Oregon City, OR
Default

Genesplicer could do that, it'd go with his Jap zero theme. The miata panels are already fairly light. I wasn't a huge fan of their article. Too general. Same with the power article, much too general.

The brake rotor was awesome, too bad almost no one would do that. I'd shave down to minimum thickness though.
Old Aug 15, 2010 | 08:46 AM
  #69  
94blackmx5's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 221
Total Cats: -1
From: maine
Default

those brake rotors were pretty cool but that is a lot of work to shave maybe a pound a side, and they will crack, it's just a matter of time.
Old Aug 16, 2010 | 09:23 PM
  #70  
Mr.JayDeeM's Avatar
Newb
 
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 33
Total Cats: 0
Default

I removed my softtop off the car today. Looks better with the hardtop on.
Old Aug 25, 2010 | 07:49 PM
  #71  
superl's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 55
Total Cats: 0
Default

Someone asked what the "baby teeth" are earlier in this post... Can someone answer this for the rest of us not in the know?!

As for taking weight out of the car... When I gutted my manual window doors, I cut the door braces out and everything then used aluminum to brace the door skins up. When done I took 30 pounds out of each door!
Old Aug 25, 2010 | 07:59 PM
  #72  
olderguy's Avatar
AFM Crusader
iTrader: (19)
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,716
Total Cats: 364
From: Wayne, NJ
Default

Two tie down hooks in front. Also two in the back, but I don't know if there is a name for them. Hemorrhoids?
Old Aug 25, 2010 | 09:51 PM
  #73  
ZX-Tex's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,847
Total Cats: 27
From: San Antonio, Texas
Default

Originally Posted by olderguy
Also two in the back, but I don't know if there is a name for them. Hemorrhoids?
Asswarts? Dingleberries? Klingons?
Old Aug 26, 2010 | 07:43 PM
  #74  
Double O 86's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 328
Total Cats: 13
From: The Woodlands, TX
Default

Originally Posted by superl
When I gutted my manual window doors, I cut the door braces out and everything then used aluminum to brace the door skins up. When done I took 30 pounds out of each door!
Do you still have windows?
How do you open the door from the inside?
Old Aug 26, 2010 | 08:11 PM
  #75  
Oscar's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,022
Total Cats: 120
From: Bolton, UK
Default

We used some plastic coated steel cable for the doors on our racecar. One end connected to the latch, the other end across the door through a hole, pull cable to release latch and open door.
Old Aug 26, 2010 | 09:15 PM
  #76  
jasonb's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 413
Total Cats: 2
From: onion city,ca
Default

does anybody make wire with aluminum conductor and automotive grade insulation?

i'm thinking the wire from battery up to starter and couple of other places with biggish copper. aluminum is relatively brittle compared to copper, so you would probably only want to use it where it is fixed to the chassis, i would imagine.

i also see quite a bit of metal thats not being used anymore on my car around where the stock shoulder seatbelt mount was. basically all that metal vertically above the top of the gas tank.
Old Aug 26, 2010 | 10:29 PM
  #77  
rharris19's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (41)
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,417
Total Cats: 20
From: Seabrook, TX
Default

Originally Posted by jasonb
i also see quite a bit of metal thats not being used anymore on my car around where the stock shoulder seatbelt mount was. basically all that metal vertically above the top of the gas tank.
That's what i am looking at right now is all the extra metal around the car. The whole back parcel shelf could be taken out up to the studs for the soft top rain rail. If you have the trunk hinges off then you could really do a number on the area and gut it straight into the trunk area.
Old Aug 26, 2010 | 10:46 PM
  #78  
baron340's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 577
Total Cats: 13
From: Lompoc, CA
Default

Originally Posted by jasonb
does anybody make wire with aluminum conductor and automotive grade insulation?
This is a very bad idea. There is a reason why Al is rarely used for electrical conductivity. Al in it's pure form is very highly conductive, but Al oxide is not at all. The ends of the wires will corrode into Al oxide, the resistance in the wire goes up and with it comes lots and lots of heat. Like enough heat to set something on fire, melt through the battery, etc.
Old Aug 26, 2010 | 10:50 PM
  #79  
rharris19's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (41)
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,417
Total Cats: 20
From: Seabrook, TX
Default

Originally Posted by baron340
This is a very bad idea. There is a reason why Al is rarely used for electrical conductivity. Al in it's pure form is very highly conductive, but Al oxide is not at all. The ends of the wires will corrode into Al oxide, the resistance in the wire goes up and with it comes lots and lots of heat. Like enough heat to set something on fire, melt through the battery, etc.
Agreed. When I did inspections for an insurance company insurer, one of the biggest mark ups in premiums were for complexes that still had any aluminum wiring at all.
Old Aug 26, 2010 | 11:05 PM
  #80  
Reverend Greg's Avatar
Junior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 350
Total Cats: -26
From: McDonough Ga.
Default

Originally Posted by rharris19
That's what i am looking at right now is all the extra metal around the car. The whole back parcel shelf could be taken out up to the studs for the soft top rain rail. If you have the trunk hinges off then you could really do a number on the area and gut it straight into the trunk area.
What, do you just put in an Aluminum fire wall?
(G)



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:16 AM.