This was also my assumption.

 

2 coats in








sent you an email. there's an issue with one of them.

 

Seems so kludgy, but I think that's the best option. Ordered 6 with express shipping to hopefully see them by the end of the week.

Permatex had a Hylomar product but it appears to be NLA or superceded. Can anyone think of a reason why standard Permatex PTFE goo wouldn't do the trick?

 

final coat

 

Vlad, what kind of paint are you using, and are you going to "chrome" it?

 

basic rustoleum paint for plastic. usually flat black or semigloss black is the standard, but you can get creative with tints and pearls if you wanted to.
see my thread about this where I posted various examples, including dark gray pearl.

 

Gasoila E-Seal is a specifically E85-rated thread sealant with PTFE.

https://www.amazon.com/Gasoila-Seal-.../dp/B00CRKVI4S

 

Take the case of 50% duty cycle. The current might be 5A. The diode (and pump) will each see 2.5A average. It will cook.

 

Thanks for pointing this out. The form factor of yours makes it a little awkward to incorporate into the harness. How about this: DST2045AX Littelfuse Inc. | Discrete Semiconductor Products | DigiKey Nearly the same specs but easier to drape across two wires and solder into place.

Ordered up a bunch of small bits and wire this morning. 10awg Tefzel wire, DR25 heatshrink, ring terminals, and a single 25A 2-pin Deutsch connector so I can assemble the bulkhead terminals and then never touch them again. I haven't found the fuel pump connector yet - I'd like to buy it in connector+pins form so I can crimp my own wire in. I didn't see it in the connector witchhunt thread, though.

 

I bought a the 2 pin connector for 10gauge wire. Let me find where I got it.

Edit: Didn't realize you wanted the stock connector. Can't help you there. I just chopped the 2 wires I needed off. Didn't want to touch the signal wires for level.

 

I thought about that a while ago and there are pros and cons. I would set it up with something like a DW200 inside the tank on stock wiring and a Bosch 044 under the car. You still need the SSR on the 044 so it doesn't overheat, and I'm not sure if you can blow through an 044 if it's not running. You also need to use another output on the MS to trigger the 044's relay. Is that easier than a couple of $15 bulkhead connectors? Maybe, but I think it comes with its own set of hassles.

For me, the killer was the thought of listening to an external 044 screaming away. Not street-car friendly. Same reason I'm trying to use a DW300 at near-max capacity instead of going to a louder Walbro 450.

 

That's a cute diode (I had to look up who Littelfuse ate to acquire their diode business!), but the problem is you can't get the heat out of the package. It's rated at 20A only at 25*C and with a PCB with copper area pulling heat out of the legs. It will overheat at only 5A average or so.

The part I linked is meant to be mounted on a heatsink. This kind of heatsink will probably work:
531202B02500G Aavid Thermalloy | Fans, Thermal Management | DigiKey

 

I meant the connector at the pump itself - I'm not touching the signal wires for level either.

 

Fair enough. Function over form.

I am definitely going to put all of this together into a kit. It shouldn't be nearly this hard

 

Don't know about DW300.

Walbro450 is a metripack-280. I got connector and pins for 10awg wire.

 

Starting to wire things up. I have the FPR and filter mounted but I'm waiting on some sleeve to protect the fuel hoses as they squeeze their way down past the tank before I start plumbing.

SSR will sit on the passenger side of the car, flyback diode will sit on the driver's side. The flyback ended up being kind of a bulky thing - I didn't have any good solution for splicing a trio of 10awg wires, so I grabbed some spare 12awg and I'm going to connect it to the pump at the bulkhead. That means four wires up to the tank instead of two, but oh well.

Dedicated fuseholder just after the battery will hold a 25A fuse. I even managed to get the wire tucked in with the OEM terminal cover

 

I have both of those pumps in my tank, the walbro450 is about 20% louder than the DW300. Barely noticeable but you can hear a difference. I run the DW all the time and stage in the 450. On my car you can't hear either one due to sound deadening.

 

Interesting, I must have mixed it up with the 044 WRT noise. Radium has a test that says that it's quieter than the Walbro 255 (although that's not a good benchmark either). It's not hard to switch pumps later - just a pigtail swap since I'm wired with 10awg already. It's worth knowing where the DW300 taps out.

 

taps out at a legit 400 on e85. Maybe a smidge more

 

I actually have a video of the 450 noise I'll post it later.

It gets louder when your pwm it. Like significantly louder.