When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Trimming the parcel shelf seems to be a 50/50 thing. The DP fits Acamas with over 1/4" to spare, but I had to trim on Rover a bit. If needed, it's 30 seconds with a flap disc.
Trans tunnel clearance could be the trans, could not be. I have seen a couple of cases where there was a bunch of interference inexplicably. My best guess so far is that there seems to be a whole bunch of variance in the footwell. The DPs fit Acamas with a mile of room and I've done several other NA and NB installs with no issues, but there are also a few guys who complained about clearance around the footwell. It's something I am aware of, but it is not a common problem, and I have yet to put my hands on any of the cars that have experienced the fitment issues (none are local). I regularly interact with the owners of 6-8 local cars running my kit and none had any of the footwell interference issues that I've seen.
It is equally as likely, based on how much the parcel shelf had to be trimmed here, that the BMW trans is wider, which forces the rotation of the DP to sit closer to the footwell and parcel shelf than it otherwise would.
As far as timeline, I'll take the flak for that. Tracy happened to be one of a number of unexpected orders in the late summer during what is normally a very slow period, and it threw off my inventory planning by a few months. I try to time re-ordering so that the last kit sells on the day the new kits arrive, but it can be hard to do with low-volume products and lumpy sales. Mea culpa. Most items in the kit are back in stock now, with DPs expected to return to stock by the end of the year.
Sixshooter came over and helped me get the harness situated. Got the coils wired in to the stock harness. Right now everything setup for batch firing. Honestly Im going with I think it'll be fine and right now since I'm retarded with wiring this is going to make things easier. As I learn I can always change the ignition and fueling to sequential later.
This is where Im going to put my oil temperature sensor. Can anyone verify that this is the delivery line to the oil cooler and not the return. Im not sure which is which on the sandwich plate and I want the oil temp to measure before the cooler.
I thought batch vs. sequential didn't make a difference unless you are running like 12000 RPM? I can't quote the source on that and make to representations as to its accuracy.
I agree with ridethecliche. Wiring projects are 60% taking things apart, 30% getting up the motivation to do it, and 10% actual wiring. Do it right now while things are already apart and you have to do it anyway.
For most cars sequential fuel is pretty nice and sequential spark is unnecessary. For this car, maybe both are needed... dunno.
Last edited by Schroedinger; 11-27-2017 at 11:24 AM.
I thought batch vs. sequential didn't make a difference unless you are running like 12000 RPM? I can't quote the source on that and make to representations as to its accuracy.
Incorrect. Noticeable improvement even at low power levels
BRB reporting every single one of your posts. How dare you question anything I say, peasant. When I go back on my word, you don't get to question what I do, you worship my existence or ban.
The injector/coil harness is easy to get to if he decides to snip two wires and extend them through the firewall later, or now if he wants. I think the d585 coils will be plenty strong for 400+whp at 7500 RPM, but what do I know.
It's fine, sure, but seq is moar bettar, and he seems to be at a point where doing it better is relatively low effort
Sure, but just the act of firing the coil one extra time towards the end of the exhaust stroke when there's nothing to combust in the chamber shouldn't alter the operation of the engine. Have you experienced otherwise?
I've experienced blowout past 20psi with LS coils before. I can't say for sure if it was due to batch or not, but since he's not in a huge time crunch and likes to do things the right way the first time..
Sure, but just the act of firing the coil one extra time towards the end of the exhaust stroke when there's nothing to combust in the chamber shouldn't alter the operation of the engine. Have you experienced otherwise?
It's double the duty cycle on the coils. In OEM applications they're maxing out around 25% duty cycle (5ish ms dwell with a 6K-ish redline, sequential so 20ms between sparks), if you batch-fire them with a 7200 RPM redline then that goes up to more like 60% (same 5ish ms dwell, but only 8.3ms between sparks). That's a lot more heat to dissipate. I dunno if it's actually a problem, but it's only a few minutes work to run the extra wires and that seems like cheap insurance to me.
I do. And I don't think I'm alone.
At what rpm would they not have 4 or 5 milliseconds to charge?
Not sure. I don't maths that good. If i'm using GM coils, it's because they were cheap and used, and i'd want to take as little chances as possible. If i'm buying the correct GM coils new oem, i'm buying IGN-1A coils instead.
And if i'm starting from scratch, i'm going sequential, not batch. Because why wouldn't you?
Made brackets tonight for the Oil Cooler...Looks like this.
Fits Perfectly under the front bumper. I am going to cut the plastic piece in half and make sure all air flow through the bumper channels through the cooler. With this mounting looking up from under the bumper all the rows of the cooler are exposed and there is a nice gap on top of the cooler for good flow. Will also make additional brackets for the bottom once the plastic pieces are added. Also made some good progress on the dash.
Pretty excited with the way its coming out. These dashes look far better in person than a video can show. Special thanks to Aidan who's post on wiring this bitch was crucial in making sure I didn't **** it up.
11-25-2017, 09:59 PM
0
