My car has flown through the air at least 20 times running 450/300 springs with AllStar sleeves, no tape. I cannot see any noticeable damage, though one of my mudflaps is a bit ground down. I've also hit plenty of huge potholes.

Why you would run anything else that doesn't trap the c-clip that well is beyond me.

 

Those sleeves do trap the c clip.

 

As was said on the last page, with apparently excessive slop. Which is why I say trap it well, not just trap it.

 

How much preload are you running?

 

I've never taped my 5X racing sleeves. I've run those on 2 different Miatas without issue.

 

Don't be silly, 5x doesn't develop stuff. They sell you rebranded crap. Its the same as the allstar sleeves.

 

Are you trying to say that Allstar also sells rebranded sleeves, or that 5X sleeves are rebranded Allstars?

 

5x is rebranded AllStars.

 

That's such a low collar height, especially given 7" springs in the back.
Was this on an NA or NB again?

Still wonder if you were slammed on the bumpstops... transmitting heavy load to the springs... causing the clips to fatigue.

 

I didn't think 5x manufactured their own but wasn't sure who the manufacturer was.

 

On the bump stops wouldnt transmit any extra force to the spring.

 

^^what he said.
<br />
<br />Today I really thrashed the car at the drag strip, broke something (trans or diff). And the sleeves are fine once taped. Same c clips that blew before.

 

It took me a few days to read through this spectacularly helpful 30 page thread. I took a bunch of notes in the process. Thank you to everybody who contributed!

I've got an NA8 that I use to liven up my commute when the weather is good. The original suspension is all worn out, and I want to replace it with something a bit more interesting than stock. Here's where I landed:

Front

• Top Hat: NB OEM
• Sleeve: Allstar 64162
• Adjuster: Allstar 64180
• Shock: Bilstein NB HD 24-065580
• Spring: 8" x 2.5" 375
• Bumpstop: Honda 51722-SR0-003 (long) trimmed to 50mm
• Isolator: ENS-9-6103G

Rear

• Top Hat: NB OEM
• Sleeve: Allstar 64162
• Adjuster: Allstar 64180
• Shock: Bilstein NB HD 24-065597
• Spring: 7" x 2.5" 250
• Bumpstop: Honda 51722-SR0-003 (long) trimmed to 50mm
• Isolator: ENS-9-6103G

Will I need to go to Home Depot for fender washers, or to NAPA for extended lug nuts while assembling the top of the shock/mount?

I think I won't encounter any funny business because I'm converting to a 100% NB setup with an OEM style shock and the OEM top hat. I have complete NB assemblies (shock, spring, mount, etc...) from a junkyard.


Thoughts on the setup? Will I encounter any surprises?

 

your bumpstops seem long, I would trim more. I would also go a bit stiffer, but that's just me. Lastly your springs seem a bit short, but I am not sure I haven't bought anything that low in rate. Not sure why you would think you need extended lugs for new shocks...those go on a completely different part.

 

<p>I believe he's referring the the &quot;extended&quot; nuts like those pictured here:&nbsp;http://fatcatmotorsports.com/igallery/graphics/NB_MCU3.jpg<br /><br />To avoid this:&amp;nbsp;https://imageshack.com/f/4hdsc00497medium2tbj<br /><br /><br />Sorry for image links.. Can't seem to post pics with new editor..</p>

 

Noted, thanks.

Both sets, or just the rear? I selected the 7" rear springs because they were cheap. We'll see when I get it all together, I guess.

My understanding is that the extended lug nut comes into play when somebody is trying to mickey-mouse an NA shock into an NB top hat. Do I have that right? If so, I agree that it won't be a factor for me.

What about the home depot washers in post #3 of this thread? Why wasn't that upper mount assembled entirely the way Mazda intended? I'm probably confused. My impression is that MSM shocks are NB equipment, so they should assemble into the OEM NB hats used by jacob300zx without any funny business.

Thanks!

 

Extender not needed. Washers not needed if you have NB hardware as you stated.

Your rates are great for a street car/commuter and will feel much better than stock. An 8" rear will be less likely to bind when the spring rates are that low, but it may be fine. The weaker the spring rate, the longer the spring usually needs to be to avoid bind. But 7" may work fine.

 

Its really up to you on spring rates depending on what you like. If you do change it, use one of the suspension calculators around.

7" rear spring seems low to me, I think that's what i had on my rear springs for 450 lb rates.

Ahh the home depot washer to replace the cup. Definitely toss the cup. I bought a ES sway bar end link kit from autozone and stole the washer from there. They are a lot thicker and worked well. Might be expensive, I split it with a local.

they looked like this (some people used the bushings too for something, I am sure there is info in another thread on that):

 

Bet you could use the bushings in place of the factory rubber one that goes up in the hat.

 

Bingo.

Great, thanks. We still have the mystery about the washers at the very top of this thread...

Okay then, mystery solved! What's wrong with the cup? We're talking about 28-777 in the following picture, right?



This part prevents the shock shaft from punching through the bushing on suspension compression, right? I've never held one in my hand, but assume the cup is fairly stout, like the ones in Seefo's sway-bar end-link kit.

Additional concern about my 7" 250lb rear springs. I may leave the bump stops long in the back until I'm feeling confident about them.