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The Better Bilstein Ebay Coilover Thread

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Old Dec 14, 2015 | 10:11 PM
  #661  
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Those look exactly like the Allstar sleeves and perches mentioned elsewhere in the thread, and you can get them for around $30 if you buy them separately without that top spring mount. Unless they're some funky Bilstein, they should fit the same 46mm shocks as the fleabay ones and you'll probably still have fitment issues.
Old Dec 14, 2015 | 10:12 PM
  #662  
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I'd plan on sub 4 inch at the pinchwelds or 11.5 inches at the front fender lip with how short those Ohlins look.
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Old Dec 14, 2015 | 10:15 PM
  #663  
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Originally Posted by OptionXIII
Those look exactly like the Allstar sleeves and perches mentioned elsewhere in the thread, and you can get them for around $30 if you buy them separately without that top spring mount. Unless they're some funky Bilstein, they should fit the same 46mm shocks as the fleabay ones and you'll probably still have fitment issues.
The Bilsteins are 50mm and the Ohlins are 36mm. As long as I can find 4" Allstar sleeves in 36mm diameter, I'd totally go that route.
Old Dec 14, 2015 | 10:35 PM
  #664  
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Oops, my bad. Found the same part number after googling it. That 36mm is written pretty small...
Old Dec 14, 2015 | 11:02 PM
  #665  
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If I'm using NA shocks, there's really no need to upgrade top hats, is there?

I found a set of pillowballs, but as it's mainly a street car, I'm not sure it's worth it.
Old Dec 15, 2015 | 04:51 AM
  #666  
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Maybe I misread something, but what makes you think the ohlins are superior for this application?
What sort of rideheight are you going for?
Old Dec 15, 2015 | 10:52 AM
  #667  
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Originally Posted by Monk
Maybe I misread something, but what makes you think the ohlins are superior for this application?
What sort of rideheight are you going for?
I can have them re-valved fairly easily should I desire and they have multiple grooves for the circlip, so height adjustment options are many.

I'm looking for a couple inches below stock ride height.

Last edited by VRRMPSH; Dec 15, 2015 at 11:23 AM.
Old Jan 3, 2016 | 05:05 PM
  #668  
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Ok so how does this shopping list look like. trying to get all from 1 place as i have to pay import duty.
Car will be daily driver with allot of spirited driving

4 x Allstar Performance ALL64162 - Allstar Performance Coil-Over Sleeves
4 x Allstar Performance ALL64180 - Allstar Performance Coil-Over Adjusting Nut
4 x RideTech 70010828 - RideTech Delrin Spring Washers
1 x Energy Suspension 9-6103G - Energy Suspension Coil Spring Isolators (why only 2?)
2 x Coil Over Spring, 350 lbs./in. Rate, 7 in. Length, 2.5 in.
2 x Coil-Over Spring, 550 lbs./in. Rate, 7 in. Length, 2.5 in
Old Jan 3, 2016 | 05:28 PM
  #669  
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Looks good. What do you plan to use for bump stops?

The ES coil spring isolators usually come in pairs of two so you should order 2 pairs of those.
Old Feb 7, 2016 | 09:46 PM
  #670  
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Got all my hardware. Allstar sleeves and 7" summit springs at 550/350. Cut Honda bumpstops. Everything is disassembled. '99 with sport Bilsteins. Looking to lower by about 1" to 1.5". Car is used for some track, some Auto-X and a little bit of road duty.
I just assembled the new struts and I think in order to reach my target height I would have three options:
1. have zero tension on the springs at full droop. Probably even need to have maybe 0.5" to 1" or so of slop.
2. Extend the tophats
3. Add helper/tender springs

How bad is it to have the springs just rattle around loosely at full droop?
If I'm extending the tophats, how much is recommended, considering my goals stated above? Earleier in this thread I read 1" front, 1.5" rear. Does that make sense?

On a different subject: My bumpstops in the rear were completely disintegrated. A reddish-brownish mush inside the rubber protectors thingies. Looked like they were chemically dissolved, not mechanically destroyed. The front ones looked perfect- no damage at all. Has anybody seen anything like this before?
Old Feb 7, 2016 | 09:49 PM
  #671  
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Floating springs are fine.

1" front 1.5" rear is standard
Old Feb 7, 2016 | 10:10 PM
  #672  
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Originally Posted by stefanst
Got all my hardware. Allstar sleeves and 7" summit springs at 550/350. Cut Honda bumpstops. Everything is disassembled. '99 with sport Bilsteins. Looking to lower by about 1" to 1.5". Car is used for some track, some Auto-X and a little bit of road duty.
I just assembled the new struts and I think in order to reach my target height I would have three options:
1. have zero tension on the springs at full droop. Probably even need to have maybe 0.5" to 1" or so of slop.
2. Extend the tophats
3. Add helper/tender springs
How bad is it to have the springs just rattle around loosely at full droop?
If I'm extending the tophats, how much is recommended, considering my goals stated above? Earleier in this thread I read 1" front, 1.5" rear. Does that make sense?

On a different subject: My bumpstops in the rear were completely disintegrated. A reddish-brownish mush inside the rubber protectors thingies. Looked like they were chemically dissolved, not mechanically destroyed. The front ones looked perfect- no damage at all. Has anybody seen anything like this before?
My car is running autox with a bit of street as well, same shocks and sleeves on an NA chassis. I was running 400f 300r initially, but that ended up being way too little spring for even for our really slick local lots (205 Rival s on 15x7). I moved up to 600 F 400 R (RB Race FSB, no RSB). If you have good concrete lots that aren't too bumpy, I'd run more spring for equivalent tire.

I have zero tension at droop as well, Just glue your isolators to the upper perch so they dont get pinched weird if the spring unloads (has happed to me).

Those shock bodies are a bit long too, I ended up running 1" F 1.5" r ISC hats. If I were to do it again, I would run .5" front and 1" rear hats. I ended up with more bump travel than I can use (tire hits body).

Also, the rear bumpstops evaporating is pretty common from what I've seen. The guy I got my shocks from had the same thing happen.

Edit: I had a brain fart, I'm on 10AE Hard s shocks... On the tail end of a 14 hr shift....

Last edited by soot; Feb 7, 2016 at 10:14 PM. Reason: Brain fart
Old Feb 7, 2016 | 10:22 PM
  #673  
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600/400 is pushing it for bilstein dampening.
Old Feb 7, 2016 | 10:27 PM
  #674  
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Originally Posted by aidandj
600/400 is pushing it for bilstein dampening.
^ This. I forgot to mention I'd be getting a revalve if I went higher rates. Long day haha...
Old Feb 7, 2016 | 10:35 PM
  #675  
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Thanks for the advice!

Originally Posted by aidandj
600/400 is pushing it for bilstein dampening.
Springs are cheap. I'll try my 550/350 for now and see how that works. Sounds like I'll go with the 1"/1,5" extended tophats. Really want to make full use of all the bump-travel I can get. I need to pull and roll the fenders anyway to fit my new 10" 6ULs that should be coming end of this month. Eventually I hope to run this suspension on my future Salvagewon Eliminator. At 700lbs or so less, 550/350 should be plenty.
Old Feb 9, 2016 | 12:03 AM
  #676  
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Best price on tender springs...

Flat Wire Springs - PAC Racing Springs
Old Feb 14, 2016 | 02:36 PM
  #677  
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Because bilstein coilover setups are <$1000 and outperform anything within another $800.
Old Feb 14, 2016 | 03:02 PM
  #678  
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Originally Posted by Slow30R
good read but really dont understand why all that work was performed when coilovers are now getting cheaper and cheaper for the miata??
Because you can choose your own spring rates quite easily.
Because you can add helper springs, if you so desire.
Because most coilovers aren't valved appropriately.
Because mono-tube.
Old Feb 14, 2016 | 05:17 PM
  #679  
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Because 99% of the other coil overs are junk
Old Feb 15, 2016 | 01:52 PM
  #680  
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So I'm in the position of being able to choose a complete Hard-S suspension for $100 less than brand new Bilstein HD's. Good deal or go for the brand new HD's?

If I go down the HD route, I should search for HD's for an NA Miata and just use them with NB top hats to install them on my NB correct? A quick search seems to show that they'll work.



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