Thanks.

Front upper, zerk on the bottom of the bushing when installed:



Note that per the instructions the grease is less about lubrication than about sealing out dirt and moisture. If you have a binding problem, grease probably isn't going to fix it.

 

Yes this is the right spot I will redo mine (and keep my old zerks to plug the holes).


I've checked mine now. They are not binding (meaning that everything is aligned correctly) but I think the delrin needs reamed a little and everything cleaned up and greased. I think mine have been on the car for a long time and the zerks were not in right place to do an effective job. I see on other posts people pressing the sleeve into the delrin by hand. That could not be done on mine right now.

I appreciate the replies from both of you. Cheers.

 

How much deflection does delrin give for misaligned arm bores? I’ve tried 3 different rear lower control arms and all are ever so slightly off on the outer bores, requiring a tiny bit of flexing of the bushing to get the bolt through which doesn’t require much effort with rubber and poly.
Probably not an issue on any other location as they are further apart but these 2 bores are quite close together.
Thinking of ordering the SadFab delrin kit but don’t want to have binding here or not actually be able to get the bolt in at all.
I can’t imagine I’m the only person with this so hoping others can advise.

Rear lower arm outer with rear hub moved out of the way:

 

Good question. I'm just doing mine now with A1 bushings and can say the arms are not perfect (because they didn't need to be for rubber bushings). I can also say it is very important to get the bores clean, as any crud will deflect the bushings and make them tight.

I think the SadFab users bore theirs out after install after to account for that.

 

Back in the day, when I discovered that the Superpro bushes in my racecar were the wrong size for the sadfab inserts, I looked closely at the delrin option. There was a mention of drilling somewhere, but I can't remember where (might be upthread, or in their instructions) However in adjustment locations, they recommended poly, because delrin would not tolerate the movement required. Whether it would tolerate the amount of movement there I don't know, but that was not one of the locations sadfab specified for poly, so draw your own conclusions. I went poly-bronze rather than delrin, and that suspension now sits under my SE (MSM) very happily - it was great on the track, and is great on the road.

You don't say what use for the car. I can say that my poly-bronze in my racecar was absolute magic, but that was an atmo car running around 125-130rwkw. YMMV if big hp turbo with full aero kit.

 

I just installed an a1 delrin kit in my car. If I had any bushing mis-alignment from bore to bore I wouldn't know it. Bolts went in just fine and arms swung smooth. I think there is some tolerance for the bolts as the arms use the clamping force of the sub frame mounts to hold as the metal sleeves are longer than the main delrin bushings and have a thin delrin washer for lack of a better term. The arm swings on the metal sleeve inside the delrin.

I cleaned the bores of any rust or anything else before installation. After you press them in you have to ream the bores of the bushings so the metal sleeve goes in and rotates smoothly. I bought some adjustable reamers from Amazon that were recommended on a Facebook group.

 

That sounds more like pol-bronze that the delrin applications I am familiar with, no metal sleeve, just delrin bore in which bolt fits naked.

 

I'm looking at upgrading to an adjustable RUCA from AWR that uses a stock eccentric bolt in the RUCA-O location. As such, I need to change the bushing in that location to suit the larger bolt size. I'm already running a DIY 863 kit with Energy bushings. AWR advises you to buy a FLCA-R bushing P/N NA01-34-490, but obviously I want something to match the rest of my bushings. My questions:
-

1. Anyone have a preferred place to buy individual bushings? Looks like I'd need Energy P/N 2692 and 2693, or just double up on one of them. Or an alternate supplier. https://www.energysuspensionparts.com isn't even the real Energy website, and they claim a 10-12 week lead time.
2. RUCA-O upright bore is 38mm, FLCA-R is 40mm. Poly can be a bear to press into locations it doesn't want to go. Would I be better off trying to bore out the standard RUCA-O bushings to suit the larger 7/8" 863 bearing?

Worst case, I've got a Sadfab RUCA-O spherical bearing kit on the shelf, but I'm not sure I want to be the guy running sphericals in a daily/HPDE car. Plus I'd need to machine new sleeves/spacers for that as well.

 

I recently purchased an individual bushing from that site to replace one I chewed up by accident. I got mine in about a month. I even checked on the 10-12 week lead time with the live chat help. They confirmed that is accurate, but given how "fast" I got mine, I think it might be the worst case, and most of the time it's faster.

 

I just picked up the Flyin Miata SuperPro kit for my car on the claim that they:

"they won't squeak, ever, and require no maintenance (as long as you use the included grease)"

Seeing other SuperPro users, what's the experience been? Do I install zerks anyways or are they really what they say they are?

 

Do whatever Ed tells you to do with those.

 

Poly hater here. Good luck with those. My Superpros seized solid on the poly/bush interface, the bushing rotated in its housing, installed with included lube. Needed a 5lb hammer to get the bush out of the poly when I removed them. Poly is a bastard, and just squeezes the grease out. Now happily running poly/bronze.

But the Superpros never did squeak.

 

I have Superpro, have had issues but that's only to do with donuting the front lowers with super sticky tyres and race brakes on track.
You don't need zerks with these. I had mine done by an ex Superpro tech guy. Just install the bushing with a press or threaded rod/washers into a clean, dry control arm (No Lube!!)
Once they're installed, lube the ribbed inner bore of the bush with the supplied grease and then push the steel pin in. You should almost be able to push it in by hand. A simple bench vice makes simple work of this part.
I've had mind in now since 2017 and the control arms still swing smoothly and freely. Zero squeaks.

 

I’m just starting to look into this, is the job easier if you just drop the subframes? I have the engine, trans, and crossmember out already. I don’t think it would be too bad to pull the whole subframe at this point.

 

FLCA bushings, installing a prothane kit. I'm 90% sure I have the halves installed according to diagram. This thicker and larger bushing in the right spot?

The FLCA front half rear side.

 

Rear half of FLCA rear bushing is thicker but not larger in diameter like the front rear???

 

The thicker bushing flange should take the braking load, so it appears they are correct.

 

hey guys,

i shot an email out about V8R arm support but its been about 4 days now, no response. does anyone know what options are available for the V8R complete arm kit? i think id like to do the bronze bushings in the existing ureathane on this one..

 

GoTo: Post 18 Tip #69
https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...equired-97991/

 

Thanks for replying, but these are definitely not the arms I have, and are not the arms they currently sell