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Old 06-21-2011, 08:56 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by MartinezA92 View Post
why I would spend more than the car is worth.
Because I didn't buy the car for it's equity.
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Old 06-21-2011, 12:24 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by rccote View Post
What I'm saying is you shouldn't shy away from buying expensive parts simply because they're approaching/exceeding the cost of the car itself. You need to look at it as total expenditures vs. other cars. What, an STi msrp is like ~33k? Doesn't mean you need to spend anywhere near that to smear **** on it at the track. I'm not talking about the right way to develop good driving habits, that's understood and we're on the same page as far as that goes.
My simple point was, how much you spend should really be dictated by the end users main goals/objectives. THe OP has yet to chime back in, so who knows.

And yes, I've already spent more on minimal mods than I have spent on the car itself. Race parts cost the same regardless of what platform they go in (sans zeeee german cars which get ******* taxed)
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Old 06-21-2011, 01:51 PM   #43
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Even if you don't get the best, get the absolute best you can afford at the time. When you are talking about using the car on track, it is not just about having the fastest setup. Dependibility means a great deal more to me than absolute performance (im not that great of a driver). I have spent twice the amount on three different suspension setups than what I ended up paying for the custom revalved SD Bilsteins and adjustable perches. It also sucks to change out the suspension 3 times. I did it all myself so it didnt cost much, cant imagine if I had to pay for someone else to do the swaps for me.
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Old 06-21-2011, 06:13 PM   #44
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damn it by budget coils started to bind after I lowered the car an inch. Shoulda got something better!
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Old 06-21-2011, 06:43 PM   #45
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The first time you replace a shell, you'll understand how little the car is worth in relation to all of the stuff that actually makes it fast/fun to drive/reliable.
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Old 06-21-2011, 08:00 PM   #46
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I agree. I did just that this year and the core shell itself is worth next to nothing.
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Old 06-21-2011, 10:03 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
The first time you replace a shell, you'll understand how little the car is worth in relation to all of the stuff that actually makes it fast/fun to drive/reliable.
I've thrown away a few vehicles at the track so I now what you are saying. Purpose built track vehicles and budget dont really belong in the same sentence. Some are better than others, but in the end its a losing battle if you are really keeping up with the total tally of dollars spent. Which is why I asked the OP his true intentions of the car, but it appears he is busy on a touge run in the twisties y0, because he has yet to answer.

BUt I agree with you, the miata is great because its a cheap, light, easy to work on place for cool parts and ****.
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Old 06-30-2011, 01:12 PM   #48
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Wow... I was MIA celebrating my 1yr anniversary with my lovely wife. I sorta expected to come back here and see a pile of burnt embers from the flaming. I'm very happy that my rather stupid choice of words early on hasn't devoured this thread.

Some people are keying on my comments of the price of the car vs mods. I think I may have given the wrong impression on this. I know this car is/will be an obsession. I estimate spending around 15k'ish within the next 5 years on the car (including the purchase price). So I think within that budget going over what is necessary will happen several times.

So that being the case... I really do hear the logic of those saying buy once buy right. On the other hand the car needs love in several areas before it's track ready. 2k on suspension now means possibly another calender year before I'd feel comfortable on the track. (In contrast I can spend 2500 and revamp brakes, suspension, safety setup, and some maintenance items) My goal was really to be on track for 1-2 track days per month starting next spring.

So re-evaulating goals and plans:
-10-15 track days a year and some AutoX and canyon driving thrown in
-Cost is a factor in my decision (goal is under 1000 if a decent setup is possible for this price... if not budget will be more)
-A little worried about the rebuild cost and frequency on a 2k set of coil overs.
-DD comfort is not a factor. I do however have a very bad low back so I will need the suspension setup to at least not bottom.
-Seat time, Seat time, Seat time... I've got lots of track experience with FWD (LoL FailWD) cars but not much with RWD.
-Proper Stroke and Performance is Key. I don't need the best of the best because i have lots to learn, but proper balance and setup ability is very important
-DIY is very attractive to me just because I like to get my hands dirty
-I do all my own work but I live in an apt so I can't leave the car in pieces. This is part of the draw to getting a stop gap setup while I possibly have my stock bills rebuilt.
-Don't mind taking a calculated loss in an effort to get/stay on the track. IE take a 200 dollar loss on a setup so that I can stay on the track for 6 more months.

So... Sorry for the really long winded post. This is just something that keeps turning over and over in my mind. The help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-07-2011, 09:04 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by EErockMiata View Post
Wow... I was MIA celebrating my 1yr anniversary with my lovely wife. I sorta expected to come back here and see a pile of burnt embers from the flaming. I'm very happy that my rather stupid choice of words early on hasn't devoured this thread.

Some people are keying on my comments of the price of the car vs mods. I think I may have given the wrong impression on this. I know this car is/will be an obsession. I estimate spending around 15k'ish within the next 5 years on the car (including the purchase price). So I think within that budget going over what is necessary will happen several times.

So that being the case... I really do hear the logic of those saying buy once buy right. On the other hand the car needs love in several areas before it's track ready. 2k on suspension now means possibly another calender year before I'd feel comfortable on the track. (In contrast I can spend 2500 and revamp brakes, suspension, safety setup, and some maintenance items) My goal was really to be on track for 1-2 track days per month starting next spring.

So re-evaulating goals and plans:
-10-15 track days a year and some AutoX and canyon driving thrown in
-Cost is a factor in my decision (goal is under 1000 if a decent setup is possible for this price... if not budget will be more)
-A little worried about the rebuild cost and frequency on a 2k set of coil overs.
-DD comfort is not a factor. I do however have a very bad low back so I will need the suspension setup to at least not bottom.
-Seat time, Seat time, Seat time... I've got lots of track experience with FWD (LoL FailWD) cars but not much with RWD.
-Proper Stroke and Performance is Key. I don't need the best of the best because i have lots to learn, but proper balance and setup ability is very important
-DIY is very attractive to me just because I like to get my hands dirty
-I do all my own work but I live in an apt so I can't leave the car in pieces. This is part of the draw to getting a stop gap setup while I possibly have my stock bills rebuilt.
-Don't mind taking a calculated loss in an effort to get/stay on the track. IE take a 200 dollar loss on a setup so that I can stay on the track for 6 more months.

So... Sorry for the really long winded post. This is just something that keeps turning over and over in my mind. The help is greatly appreciated.
This is all nice but lets simplify it.

You CAN afford the good stuff

You are going to be tracking the vehicle

Eventually you'll want the good stuff anyways


Now if you didn't have the money which alot of us don't thats a different reality.

Prolonging your other mods like turbo, built motor, etc can wait. I stomp on turbo/supercharged miata's regularly at local auto-x events with Xida's and 15x9's with rs3's. With the suspension dialed in I am having BOATLOADS more fun then if I cheaped out and spend my money on a turbo kit.

And if you think about it a proper track worthy turbo kit is around 6 grand if you consider mods that are needed such as big radiator, inconel studs, oil cooler etc etc, built motor, another 3 grand minimum. Thats 9 grand you have to spend for a solid reliable forced induction setup. At that point and extra grand for suspension is pennies.
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