Here's my attempt to collect relevant info for installing the Enhanced DIYPNP from the group buy thread. Hope this helps.
This ECU is NOT designed to run in parallel, and so it will NOT return OBD-II codes.
You will definately need:
1) a WBO2 with a gauge
2) an IAT sensor if you plan on going F/I in the future
3) the MAP sensor is inside the ECU, so you don't need one
1) Plug it in
2) Hook up the map line
3) Setup a new project for MS2 (Microsquirt full: DISABLED, Microsquirt module: ENABLED)
4) IAT and CLT are precalibrated, you dont need to recalibrate
5) TPS is precalibrated to 114H/760L, you need to calibrate to your own TPS
6) Timing is preset to 4 degrees, you need to verify the timing after the car is warmed up
7) Verify that you can hear the fuel pump activating for 2s with the key on
8) The ECU has a base map, you should have very little differences and you should be able to drive the car almost immediately.
9) Install wideband O2 sensor and connect it to the ECU input (the DB15 plug with the black wires) and remove stock MAF. Install Tuner Studio on your laptop and connect the serial cable to the ECU and to your computer.
Fan Control Jumpers?
- The jumper system to control the fans (for people with COPS). You have 6 jumpers: 4 of them control the main fan and the two other control the condenser fan. Each of the 4 jumpers add 1,2,3,4 degrees Celsius to a base temp of 90C. So you can set the main fan to turn ON from between 91C and 100C. The fan turns off once the temp goes 4 degrees lower than the ON temp. So if your ON temp is 95, it will turn off at 91. If you don't set any jumper, the fan won't turn on at all - the default for people without COPS. If you don't set any of the condenser fan jumpers (2 jumpers), the condenser fan will turn on at the same temperature as the main fan. These two jumpers add 2 and 3 degrees. So the condenser fan can turn on at 0,2,3 or 5 degrees after the main fan.
- The MIL overheating warning system turns 5 degrees after the condenser fan and escalates the warning level every 5 degrees. So if your condenser fan turns on at say 105C, the MIL will start blinking slowly at 110C, rapidly at 115C and will become steady on at 120C (by which time the dummy stock coolant gauge has already begun moving towards the H indication). To prevent the MIL from harassing you all the time, it will not turn on before 105C, no matter how low your fans are set.
- Another jumper controls whether you want the idle valve control to be simple or advanced (based on rpm, vehicle speed, brake, clutch and shift lever position)
Sequential Ignition Instructions?
If you decide to go trully sequential on the ignition, then you need to change the wiring on the COPs. So far, you have cylinders 1&4 and 2&3 tied together brought in to ignition A and ignition B through the stock wiring harness. You will need to split them, and bring coil 1 to ignition A, coil 3 to ignition B,
coil 4 to ignition C, coil 2 to ignition D. Ignition C and D will be waiting for you on the DB15 connector, ignition A and B are brought in as usual through the stock harness.
To go back to wasted spark, you will need to disconnect ignition C and D from coils 4 & 2, and reconnect coil 4 with coil 1, and coil 2 with coil 3. You will receive instructions on how to do that for your units. Please note that a unit that is received as wasted spark CAN be converted to COPs without reflashing of
firmware or anything, but you will need to move the two wires that control the fans from the MS to my own board - a 5 minute task. You will not however, be able to adjust the fan temps, as your board will come preprogrammed with the default values (200 for the main fan and 208 for the A/C fan, 6 degrees of hysterisis on both fans).
Fuel autotune: You need to register your copy of Tunerstudio for that to work.
Knock sensing: All NBs will have the knock sensing circuit built but NOT enabled in the software.
You must enable it and adjust the sensitivity of the circuit through a potentiometer on the board
(each engine is different, so you MUST tune it to YOUR engine).
ECU Features while running A/C
1) When you start the car, if you have the A/C system engaged, the A/C will not kick in immediately,it will wait 6 seconds and then engage. On most of my maps, I have the crank-to-run delay set to 4 or 5 seconds, so 6 seconds will give the engine a bit of time to stabilize the idle before it gets hit by the A/C. If the idle dips too much for any reason, the A/C gets cut off and won't start again for another 6 seconds to avoid oscillations.
2) Same goes for the cooling fans. If you give it a warm (hot!) start and the fans need to kick in, they won't for the first 5 seconds. They also don't work unless the engine is running (at least 500rpm).
3) Stepping on the throttle (~90%) disables the A/C and doesn't restore it until you back off the throttle a little (85%) AND 2 seconds pass by. So if you are throttle happy, you won't break your A/C.
4) If the RPMs dip, the A/C will disengage for 6 seconds before coming back to life. If you go over 5500rpm, it will also disenage and won't switch on again unless you come down to 5100rpm AND 2 seconds lapse.
DB9 cable and USB Adapter
Setup Project in Tuner Studio
Using Tuner Studio MS for Tuning
Using TunerStudioMS for Tuning Megasquirt - Guide
New Tuner Studio version with VEanalyze live
DIYPNP Base Docs