Read the MS3 tuning manual for EAE with lag. I use it.

 

Oh wait, you mean the "Enhanced Acceleration Enrichment", not the regular acceleration enrichment. That one (EAE) should be off.

 

Ok good. LOL
Cause my car stumbles like crazy with it enabled.

 

Drove the car around a little more today. It feels SOO good again. Definitely a long ways from being perfect, but its already at the same level of tuning my adaptronic was with less than half the tuning time put into it.



I do have a slight issue that I am noticing:
Around 2500 rpm, not all the time, but very often the car stumbles for a second. I can't figure out what it is. Logs dont show anything out of ordinary. It doesn't ALWAYS happen too: always at part throttle when Im depressing the throttle and giving it a bit more gas, under normal driving conditions.

When I'm flooring it (did that just to see if it happens then), or keeping throttle the same as it goes through that area, its fine. Only when I'm giving it a little more throttle around that area (like a tiny bit more), does it do that. Logs don't show anything out of ordinary. Its just so weird. Like a sudden loss of power, like when you hit "burn" and it writes and the car stumbles for a tiny bit. It only happens for a split second, then the car is normal.


My theory:
1) maybe my uncalibrated/un-adjusted stock knock sensor (which is enabled btw) is picking up false knock and pulling timing at that rpm?
2) reset of some sort? <- not really sure about that
3) misfire of some sort? kinda hard to believe it could happen at such low throttle and low rpm, but im not sure


Any ideas?

 

I'm getting that one as well. It feels like an ever so slight misfire of sorts. It usually occurs after you gently step on the throttle again after having lifted. It happens maybe 2 or 3 times per week on my car, so I haven't bothered to see what's up.

Maybe if we can get a decent log that actually shows the problem, th guys writing the firmware can figure it out. I can't for the life of me, trace the problem happening inside the logs. I can feel it in the car, but I can't recognize it in the log, even if I mark the position by hitting the spacebar as soon as I feel it.

 

/\ yes that is EXACTLY IT.
Glad to hear I'm not alone experiencing this lol

 

Well, if anyone else is having this problem with their MS2/DIYPNP, whether part of this group buy or not, please chime in.

 

Yeah, 18psi, I tried that enhanced stuff and it sucked.
I set my accel enrichment from 2500 to 7000. It tapers from max to min. I set the taper to start at the default 2500 then changed the end from 5000 to 7000. If you want to defeat the accel enrichment settings, set both the min and max to greater than your rev limit.

After having corrected my AFRs and more autotuning, its been running great. On-off throttle response is good and the hesitation is mostly gone. As Revenant said, I still have more cells to tune.

 

Another question:

Should overrun fuel cut be turned off when auto tuning?
I noticed the autotuner adding a TON of fuel down low in the vacuum area where the car is decelerating and doesn't need fuel.

I'm guessing yes but wanted to double check.


Also about the knock sensor: in the adaptronic there was a map that you could set up the knock sensor and all that. I don't see that in the ms.
Just the "knock sensor settings" tab.

How do I set up the stock knock sensor? Right now its on "safe mode" but I'm not sure if its set up correctly.

 

So what does it help when setting accel enrichments from the 2000-5000 that they came with (at least on my map) to 2500-7000?

Just wondering. Does it update other parts of the map that are higher rpm/kpa higher than the cells its currently increasing so that the map is more smooth in the end?

 

The accel enrichment starts with full enrichment and tapers down to 0 from the start RPM to the end RPM. Changing the end RPM from 5K to 7K extends the taper so that 0 enrichment occurs at 7K instead of 5K

 

I'm using 25 as the Min fuelload in the Advanced Settings, that does the trick.

Apart from those settings, that's about it. There is a blue potentiometer inside the MS that you can use to tune the sensitivity of the knock sensor, if you are picking up false knock.

 

ahh gotcha. I'll do that thanx

 

Here is what I'm talking about with the knock sensor:



Notice in vacuum and in normal driving conditions it just randomly retards timing due to knock. Or am I seeing that wrong?

 

No, you are right. You need to reduce the sensitivity of the knock sensor by turning the potentiometer counter-clockwise. Turn it one full turn down and try again (it's a 10-turn pot).

 

Will do.
Guess I have a project for tomorrow: pulling out the unit which is a BITCH to do lol.


Also, my cold starts are GREAT. Hot restarts usually suck, unless I give it a little bit of throttle, and then it starts right up. That means my crank fuel is too low at high temps right?

 

Probably so.

 

OK, last question for today:
This potentionmeter is located on the main board inside the unit? I'm looking for pictures of it online and cant find any that show an up close picture of the board so I know where to look for it tomororw.

 

It's on one of the two locations below, that are marked green.

 

I get that too, impossible to see on a log too despite 'catching' it many times. Log resolution/data rate is probably too slow to catch it :(

I'd come to the conclusion it was noise in my setup, but maybe not.

MSII, but running 4G63 code.