99-00 and 01-05 MS DIYPNP "Enhanced" group buy
#81
I tried that yesterday, but did not remove the sensor from the exhaust. However, the engine didn't run for approximately 18 hours before the recalibration. I'll try to perform a proper free air calibration tomorrow and see if that helps.
#82
Well, that was yet another MS noob fail on my part. I reloaded the base map and it idled until warmed up and I took it back out autotuning and it was fine. I didn't make any substantial changes before, is it possible that my tune somehow became corrupted?
Also, does anyone know the formula for converting target afr into an actual afr (instead of 1:1470) in MegalogViewer?
Also, does anyone know the formula for converting target afr into an actual afr (instead of 1:1470) in MegalogViewer?
Last edited by Joseph B; 11-05-2010 at 11:32 PM.
#84
SHE'S ALIVEEEE
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...802#post653802
I'm going to need your guys' input/help with startup/warmup settings because the base map doesn't work for me AT ALL since I'm on e85, but otherwise I'm happy.
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...802#post653802
I'm going to need your guys' input/help with startup/warmup settings because the base map doesn't work for me AT ALL since I'm on e85, but otherwise I'm happy.
#85
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Congrats! I also finished my install. As stated by Revenant, both fans kick in when the AC is on. My only issue is that I cannot connect to the ECU. It seems that my serial cable is not compatible. I downloaded port check to test and it fails. Im going to try to get another cable today.
#86
Congrats! I also finished my install. As stated by Revenant, both fans kick in when the AC is on. My only issue is that I cannot connect to the ECU. It seems that my serial cable is not compatible. I downloaded port check to test and it fails. Im going to try to get another cable today.
#87
I bought my serial-to-usb at Fry's electronics (not sure if you guys have those there) for 9 bux. Worx great and I don't need an adapter. AND I like the usb so much more cause there are no pins to bend/etc and it plugs right in/out easy and fast without having to fiddle with the screws/fasteners.
I don't think price is the determining factor on these whether they'll work or not. Some just don't work with the MS/adaptronic or whatever operating system you're using.
Some just do.
I don't think price is the determining factor on these whether they'll work or not. Some just don't work with the MS/adaptronic or whatever operating system you're using.
Some just do.
#88
I bought my serial-to-usb at Fry's electronics (not sure if you guys have those there) for 9 bux. Worx great and I don't need an adapter. AND I like the usb so much more cause there are no pins to bend/etc and it plugs right in/out easy and fast without having to fiddle with the screws/fasteners.
I don't think price is the determining factor on these whether they'll work or not. Some just don't work with the MS/adaptronic or whatever operating system you're using.
Some just do.
I don't think price is the determining factor on these whether they'll work or not. Some just don't work with the MS/adaptronic or whatever operating system you're using.
Some just do.
#89
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Joseph_B, I had a look at your datalog and saw that the battery voltage was 14.3 +/- 0.1V, pretty much as promised. Can others please confirm that this is what you are seeing?
Does anyone else have any notes on their unit? I'm about to start working on the final batch of units, so any feedback is still more than welcome.
Btw, I'm pretty happy that everyone's unit is faultless so far, hardware-wise. I wish I had a perfect basemap for every setup out there, sadly I don't, so most basemaps are either from a closely related setup or just created from my own experience of tuning local miatas.
Does anyone else have any notes on their unit? I'm about to start working on the final batch of units, so any feedback is still more than welcome.
Btw, I'm pretty happy that everyone's unit is faultless so far, hardware-wise. I wish I had a perfect basemap for every setup out there, sadly I don't, so most basemaps are either from a closely related setup or just created from my own experience of tuning local miatas.
#90
My voltage is 14.3 steady too. I can post you a log if you want one?
#91
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I got a new cable and I can connect. I also registered my TS
Now to tune. I'm new to tuning and have to learn what to do next.
Edit: The cable is a Belkin brand DB9 cable.
Note: I connected my LC-1 to the fusebox for power. The O2 sensor wire is the only one that connects to the ECU.
I edited my LC-1 Analog-2 to show 10-20 AFR
Now to tune. I'm new to tuning and have to learn what to do next.
Edit: The cable is a Belkin brand DB9 cable.
Note: I connected my LC-1 to the fusebox for power. The O2 sensor wire is the only one that connects to the ECU.
I edited my LC-1 Analog-2 to show 10-20 AFR
#92
Can you guys PLEASE chime in on my timing verification?
Everyone keeps saying "check timing" but I see no writeups or explanation on exactly how to do it. It may be a n00b question but I really need to know if I did it correctly so I can redo it if I didn't:
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...919#post656919
Thanx
Everyone keeps saying "check timing" but I see no writeups or explanation on exactly how to do it. It may be a n00b question but I really need to know if I did it correctly so I can redo it if I didn't:
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...919#post656919
Thanx
#93
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Posted Revenant's response here too for completeness.
1) Start the car
2) Connect to MS
3) Go to Basic Setup -> More Ignition Settings
4) Set "Fixed Advance" to "Fixed Timing".
5) Set "Timing for Fixed Advanced" to 10 (should be 10 already)
6) Hit Burn (car may die, you will need to switch off the ignition and then on again). If it doesn't, do it anyway.
7) Verify timing is correct with a timing light gun. The LEFT mark should be at 10, the RIGHT mark should be at T. You can adjust these quickly and easily by going to Tools -> Trigger Wizard.
8) Once you are happy with the timing, hit Burn. The engine will die.
9) Without switching off the ignition, go to Basic Setup -> More Ignition Settings, and set "Fixed Advance" back to "Use Table". Hit Burn.
10) Switch ignition off and start the car - done!
2) Connect to MS
3) Go to Basic Setup -> More Ignition Settings
4) Set "Fixed Advance" to "Fixed Timing".
5) Set "Timing for Fixed Advanced" to 10 (should be 10 already)
6) Hit Burn (car may die, you will need to switch off the ignition and then on again). If it doesn't, do it anyway.
7) Verify timing is correct with a timing light gun. The LEFT mark should be at 10, the RIGHT mark should be at T. You can adjust these quickly and easily by going to Tools -> Trigger Wizard.
8) Once you are happy with the timing, hit Burn. The engine will die.
9) Without switching off the ignition, go to Basic Setup -> More Ignition Settings, and set "Fixed Advance" back to "Use Table". Hit Burn.
10) Switch ignition off and start the car - done!
#94
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Location: Las Cruces, NM
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After many days of reading and learning. I finally had a few days to play with the car and tune it. All I can say is WOW! Its been easy to set up and tune. I did make some mistakes with settings along the way, but the nature of TS and viewing .msq files have gone a long way towards learning the settings and correcting them.
TS and the autotune feature has made it easy to get A/F ratios spot on with only driving around and letting the program tune. I did get corruption once and lost the tachometer signal and messed up ASE and idle enrichment settings (and fouled plugs), but I was able to recover by loading an older project and sending old settings from the project to the controller.
I took it out for a drive today and its been smooth as glass and idle is great. I may tweak the PID settings later on as I get used to tweaking it, but for now its really nice. A big thanks to Dimitris and Scott and MT.net for making this happen.
TS and the autotune feature has made it easy to get A/F ratios spot on with only driving around and letting the program tune. I did get corruption once and lost the tachometer signal and messed up ASE and idle enrichment settings (and fouled plugs), but I was able to recover by loading an older project and sending old settings from the project to the controller.
I took it out for a drive today and its been smooth as glass and idle is great. I may tweak the PID settings later on as I get used to tweaking it, but for now its really nice. A big thanks to Dimitris and Scott and MT.net for making this happen.
#95
After many days of reading and learning. I finally had a few days to play with the car and tune it. All I can say is WOW! Its been easy to set up and tune. I did make some mistakes with settings along the way, but the nature of TS and viewing .msq files have gone a long way towards learning the settings and correcting them.
TS and the autotune feature has made it easy to get A/F ratios spot on with only driving around and letting the program tune. I did get corruption once and lost the tachometer signal and messed up ASE and idle enrichment settings (and fouled plugs), but I was able to recover by loading an older project and sending old settings from the project to the controller.
I took it out for a drive today and its been smooth as glass and idle is great. I may tweak the PID settings later on as I get used to tweaking it, but for now its really nice. A big thanks to Dimitris and Scott and MT.net for making this happen.
TS and the autotune feature has made it easy to get A/F ratios spot on with only driving around and letting the program tune. I did get corruption once and lost the tachometer signal and messed up ASE and idle enrichment settings (and fouled plugs), but I was able to recover by loading an older project and sending old settings from the project to the controller.
I took it out for a drive today and its been smooth as glass and idle is great. I may tweak the PID settings later on as I get used to tweaking it, but for now its really nice. A big thanks to Dimitris and Scott and MT.net for making this happen.
#98
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Video of car running.
http://s1192.photobucket.com/albums/...5-16-39-44.mp4
Idle control with accesories.
http://s1192.photobucket.com/albums/...5-16-44-30.mp4
http://s1192.photobucket.com/albums/...5-16-39-44.mp4
Idle control with accesories.
http://s1192.photobucket.com/albums/...5-16-44-30.mp4
#100
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It blinks relative to your fan temp settings. I track this car , so I have my temps set lower than stock. It flashed briefly. The light you see constantly on is the emergency brake light.
<Revenant>
- The CEL should be light with the engine off, and go off when the engine catches (above 400rpm). The CEL is programmed to start blinking if you overheat:
-- It will start blinking slowly 5 degrees after the CONDENSER fan has turned on. If your MAIN fan is programmed to turn on at 98C and your CONDENSER fan is programmed to turn on at 101C, the CEL will start blinking slowly at 106C. If you continue to overheat even more, the CELL will blink fast at +10C, so at 111C.
-- To keep the CEL from pestering you, it will NOT come on before 105C, even if you've set both fans to turn on at the lowest possible setting of 91C.
</Revenant>
<Revenant>
- The CEL should be light with the engine off, and go off when the engine catches (above 400rpm). The CEL is programmed to start blinking if you overheat:
-- It will start blinking slowly 5 degrees after the CONDENSER fan has turned on. If your MAIN fan is programmed to turn on at 98C and your CONDENSER fan is programmed to turn on at 101C, the CEL will start blinking slowly at 106C. If you continue to overheat even more, the CELL will blink fast at +10C, so at 111C.
-- To keep the CEL from pestering you, it will NOT come on before 105C, even if you've set both fans to turn on at the lowest possible setting of 91C.
</Revenant>
Last edited by 99mx5; 11-25-2010 at 11:16 PM.