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Old 08-19-2010, 08:16 AM   #1
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Default 99-00 and 01-05 MS DIYPNP "Enhanced" group buy

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Old 10-28-2010, 01:23 AM   #2
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Here's my attempt to collect relevant info for installing the Enhanced DIYPNP from the group buy thread. Hope this helps.

=======================


This ECU is NOT designed to run in parallel, and so it will NOT return OBD-II codes.
You will definately need:

1) a WBO2 with a gauge
2) an IAT sensor if you plan on going F/I in the future
3) the MAP sensor is inside the ECU, so you don't need one


Installation Steps
1) Plug it in
2) Hook up the map line
3) Setup a new project for MS2 (Microsquirt full: DISABLED, Microsquirt module: ENABLED)
4) IAT and CLT are precalibrated, you dont need to recalibrate
5) TPS is precalibrated to 114H/760L, you need to calibrate to your own TPS
6) Timing is preset to 4 degrees, you need to verify the timing after the car is warmed up
7) Verify that you can hear the fuel pump activating for 2s with the key on
8) The ECU has a base map, you should have very little differences and you should be able to drive the car almost immediately.
9) Install wideband O2 sensor and connect it to the ECU input (the DB15 plug with the black wires) and remove stock MAF. Install Tuner Studio on your laptop and connect the serial cable to the ECU and to your computer.


Fan Control Jumpers?
- The jumper system to control the fans (for people with COPS). You have 6 jumpers: 4 of them control the main fan and the two other control the condenser fan. Each of the 4 jumpers add 1,2,3,4 degrees Celsius to a base temp of 90C. So you can set the main fan to turn ON from between 91C and 100C. The fan turns off once the temp goes 4 degrees lower than the ON temp. So if your ON temp is 95, it will turn off at 91. If you don't set any jumper, the fan won't turn on at all - the default for people without COPS. If you don't set any of the condenser fan jumpers (2 jumpers), the condenser fan will turn on at the same temperature as the main fan. These two jumpers add 2 and 3 degrees. So the condenser fan can turn on at 0,2,3 or 5 degrees after the main fan.

- The MIL overheating warning system turns 5 degrees after the condenser fan and escalates the warning level every 5 degrees. So if your condenser fan turns on at say 105C, the MIL will start blinking slowly at 110C, rapidly at 115C and will become steady on at 120C (by which time the dummy stock coolant gauge has already begun moving towards the H indication). To prevent the MIL from harassing you all the time, it will not turn on before 105C, no matter how low your fans are set.

- Another jumper controls whether you want the idle valve control to be simple or advanced (based on rpm, vehicle speed, brake, clutch and shift lever position)


Sequential Ignition Instructions?
If you decide to go trully sequential on the ignition, then you need to change the wiring on the COPs. So far, you have cylinders 1&4 and 2&3 tied together brought in to ignition A and ignition B through the stock wiring harness. You will need to split them, and bring coil 1 to ignition A, coil 3 to ignition B,
coil 4 to ignition C, coil 2 to ignition D. Ignition C and D will be waiting for you on the DB15 connector, ignition A and B are brought in as usual through the stock harness.

To go back to wasted spark, you will need to disconnect ignition C and D from coils 4 & 2, and reconnect coil 4 with coil 1, and coil 2 with coil 3. You will receive instructions on how to do that for your units. Please note that a unit that is received as wasted spark CAN be converted to COPs without reflashing of
firmware or anything, but you will need to move the two wires that control the fans from the MS to my own board - a 5 minute task. You will not however, be able to adjust the fan temps, as your board will come preprogrammed with the default values (200 for the main fan and 208 for the A/C fan, 6 degrees of hysterisis on both fans).


Tuning?
Fuel autotune: You need to register your copy of Tunerstudio for that to work.
Knock sensing: All NBs will have the knock sensing circuit built but NOT enabled in the software.
You must enable it and adjust the sensitivity of the circuit through a potentiometer on the board
(each engine is different, so you MUST tune it to YOUR engine).


ECU Features while running A/C
1) When you start the car, if you have the A/C system engaged, the A/C will not kick in immediately,it will wait 6 seconds and then engage. On most of my maps, I have the crank-to-run delay set to 4 or 5 seconds, so 6 seconds will give the engine a bit of time to stabilize the idle before it gets hit by the A/C. If the idle dips too much for any reason, the A/C gets cut off and won't start again for another 6 seconds to avoid oscillations.

2) Same goes for the cooling fans. If you give it a warm (hot!) start and the fans need to kick in, they won't for the first 5 seconds. They also don't work unless the engine is running (at least 500rpm).

3) Stepping on the throttle (~90%) disables the A/C and doesn't restore it until you back off the throttle a little (85%) AND 2 seconds pass by. So if you are throttle happy, you won't break your A/C.

4) If the RPMs dip, the A/C will disengage for 6 seconds before coming back to life. If you go over 5500rpm, it will also disenage and won't switch on again unless you come down to 5100rpm AND 2 seconds lapse.


DB9 cable and USB Adapter
http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cabl...99%2C601%2C461
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


Software
http://www.efianalytics.com/TunerStu....999.7_RC3.exe

Setup Project in Tuner Studio
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...dio_how_to.htm

Using Tuner Studio MS for Tuning
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/using-tunerstudioms-tuning-megasquirt-guide-40159/
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/new-tuner-studio-version-veanalyze-live-42925/

Setup
http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/msq/i...uctions_TS.pdf

Firmware
http://msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/file...u_20100522.zip

MS-II Documentation
http://msextra.com/doc/index.html#ms2

DIYPNP Base Docs
http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/docs.html
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Old 10-28-2010, 04:57 AM   #3
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I guess that now you many of you guys have the units in your hands, I need to take a break and write some proper docs.
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Old 10-28-2010, 05:14 AM   #4
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1) Remove the stock ECU and plug the MS2 unit in
2) Hook up the MAP line
3) Install the wideband O2 sensor and connect it to the ECU input (the DB15 plug) and remove stock MAF. Install Tuner Studio on your laptop and connect the serial cable to the ECU and to your computer. You will NOT be able to tune properly without a wideband, even outside of boost. The WB input is on pin #4 of the DB15 - units with a serial number above 10005 have a color-coded DB-15 prebuilt by me, it is the YELLOW wire.
4) Setup a new project for MS2 (Microsquirt full: DISABLED, Microsquirt module: ENABLED)
5) IAT and CLT are precalibrated, you dont need to recalibrate
6) TPS is precalibrated to 114H/760L, you need to calibrate to your own TPS
7) Trigger angle is preset to 4 degrees, you need to verify the timing after the car is warmed up
8) Verify that you can hear the fuel pump activating for 2s with the key on
9) Verify that the battery light and the CEL are light with the engine off
10) On a NB, crank the engine and immediately verify that the voltage is OK (14.2-14.4). If it is too high (more than 15.8V) or too low (less than 10V with the engine off or less than 13V with the engine on) the battery light will blink slowly (battery low/not charging) or fast (overcharging).
11) If the engine dies immediately after cranking (1-3s), you need to add more ASE percentage.
12) If the engine is not responsive and goes lean when you slighlt step on the throttle after 10 or more seconds, you may need to fine tune your warmup enrichments and your TPS acceleration settings.
13) The ECU has a base map, you should have little differences and you should be able to drive the car almost immediately.
14) If you requested COPs, the engine fans are controlled by my expansion board. If not, they are controlled by the MS, using the WLED and ALED outputs. Verify that the fans do turn on before going for a drive. Leave the engine running noting the temperature until the fans turn on.
15) If everything is ok, you are ready to take the car for a drive and begin tuning!
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Old 10-28-2010, 05:38 AM   #5
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If you have requested COPs, the fans are controlled by my expansion board.

The board has 8 jumpers on it.
- Jumper 1 controls if you have VICS or VTCS. No jumper is VICS, jumpered is VTCS.
- Jumpers 2 through 5 control the MAIN fan temp.
-- No jumper on will NOT switch on the fans.
-- When jumpered, JP2 will add 1 degree to the base temp of 90 degrees C
-- JP3 will add 2 degrees
-- JP4 will add 3 degrees
-- JP5 will add 4 degrees
- You can make any combination you want to alter the turn on temp from 91 to 101 degrees.
- The board only reads the jumpers on startup. You will have to switch off and on to read the jumpers again.
- Jumpers 6 and 7 control the CONDENSER fan temp
-- No jumper on will switch on the fan at the same temp as the MAIN fan. Not recommended.
-- JP6 will add 2 degrees to the temp configured by jumpers 2-5. So if your MAIN fan turns on at 100C, and you jumper JP6, the CONDENSER fan will turn on at 102C.
-- JP7 will add 3 degrees to the temp configured by jumpers 2-5.
-- Jumpering both 6 and 7 will obviously turn the CONDENSER fan at 105C - 5C degrees higher than the MAIN fan.
- Fans will turn off 4 degrees lower than their ON temp. If your fan is set to turn off at 97C, it will turn off at 93C.
- Fans will only turn on 6 seconds AFTER the engine catches (above 400rpm) If you the RPMs dip for whatever reason, the fans will stop to keep the engine from stalling. They will only turn 6 seconds after the engine has recovered.
- The CEL should be light with the engine off, and go off when the engine catches (above 400rpm). The CEL is programmed to start blinking if you overheat:
-- It will start blinking slowly 5 degrees after the CONDENSER fan has turned on. If your MAIN fan is programmed to turn on at 98C and your CONDENSER fan is programmed to turn on at 101C, the CEL will start blinking slowly at 106C. If you continue to overheat even more, the CELL will blink fast at +10C, so at 111C.
-- To keep the CEL from pestering you, it will NOT come on before 105C, even if you've set both fans to turn on at the lowest possible setting of 91C.
- Jumper 8 controls the idle control strategy, not jumpered is Normal (recommended), jumpered is Advanced (not recommended yet). Leave it to Normal.
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Old 10-28-2010, 05:53 AM   #6
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Location of jumpers:

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Old 10-28-2010, 06:31 AM   #7
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I followed the above instructions Reverant, and mine is now peachy.

I'd just like to know which are the fan control jumpers? I'm in no huge rush, I just want to turn my 'fan on' temp down slightly. As I'm running a little hot when stuck traffic. (~100*C)

Also can any other owners confirm that when they verified their timing against the MS (at 10* fixed) it was bang on the money? Mine was, I don't know if that was pure luck or down to Dimitris. Either way, it was cool
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Old 10-28-2010, 06:38 AM   #8
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Craig, the jumpers are noted on the picture above, and on post #5.

Timing was pre-set to match most NBs.
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Old 10-28-2010, 06:42 AM   #9
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Yeah that was cross-posted, I got hauled away from my desk at work and you'd replied in the mean time. Thanks for getting the picture up.

The timing sync was a pleasant surprise.
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Old 10-28-2010, 07:28 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRAIGO View Post
Yeah that was cross-posted, I got hauled away from my desk at work and you'd replied in the mean time. Thanks for getting the picture up.

The timing sync was a pleasant surprise.
Reveants job is made easier as you can't really adjust the crank sensor position on an NB, inlike the NA's which has a wide range of movement.

Obviously the same reason why you can't easily do the 14deg BTDC mod on an NB/NBB.

Still cool tho
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Old 10-28-2010, 08:37 AM   #11
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Does anyone have a pinout of how the wires on the lc1 correspond with the black wires on the DB15?
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Old 10-28-2010, 09:40 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph B View Post

Does anyone have a pinout of how the wires on the lc1 correspond with the black wires on the DB15?

Sorry I wasn't able to color code them. The input is pin #4 on the db15.
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:00 AM   #13
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Red wire of LC-1 to #1, blue to #2, white to #3, analog output to #4.
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:12 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reverant View Post
Red wire of LC-1 to #1, blue to #2, white to #3, analog output to #4.
Power, heater go through the MS?
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:12 AM   #15
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they can for simple wiring.
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:20 AM   #16
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they can for simple wiring.
wow.
so its's all on one thing and there should not be any notorious LC1 grounding issues.
WoW.
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Old 10-28-2010, 11:22 AM   #17
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yep, sensor gets grounded to the sensor ground, heater to the main ground, 12v to the fused ECU power supply and input to the MS input.
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Old 10-29-2010, 03:34 AM   #18
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Any chance I could have a copy of that base map your including.... please?
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Old 10-29-2010, 03:44 AM   #19
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I don't include a generic basemap but rather, a custom basemap for each unit individually. This takes some time to do, and I'm short on time right now. This is an added-value service for those that honoured us by getting a unit from us.
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Old 10-29-2010, 08:46 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musanovic View Post
wow.
so its's all on one thing and there should not be any notorious LC1 grounding issues.
WoW.
I was thinking about how I was going to power and ground my LC1 for the past few weeks and it's already taken care of. This was well worth the premium over building it myself.
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