Is anyone running one of these with a megasquirt yet? 12-1 w/ a modded cas?

 

Mine is still sitting in a box.

 

Step one, cut a hole in the box.

 

Just a little FYI for anyone running this on a NA block, the hole in the oil pump where the crank sensor mounts is not tapped on the early cars. I saw reference on m.net to using a m5x.8 tap, that's too small... I used a m6x1.0 tap and stole a harmonic balancer bolt off a spare motor in my garage. Then I put a couple washers behind the sensor (theres a lip on the oil pump that keeps the sensor from sitting flush) and bolted it on... Here's a quick phone picture in case anyone isn't sure where this mounts (I couldn't figure it out by the pictures from this thread, its obvious when you've got the motor on a stand though)

 

In for MS set-up info. It's been do long, someone do all the work for me, for free.

 

FYI, 99-ish 626s share the crank sensor plug... A lot easier to find at pick n pull too.

 

So to get this set up in a 1.6 (1991.5 - big nose), all I would need is MS1v3, TSE trigger wheel, and 99 NB crank sensor?

How do you accommodate for the added thickness of the trigger wheel and pulley alignment?

 

I can't speak for the setup requirements, I haven't had time to do anything on that front and I won't have time for quite a while.

You should use a '96+ pulley mount - it's a bit thinner to accomodate the trigger wheel.

 

does anybody know the pinout of the crank sensor? 3 wires, I think it is red blue and black... so black is ground, blue is signal and red is 12V?

 

Glad that this was revived. As I was just talking to my coworker about this today. I am going to be installing an EMS4 into my car and would like to put this on as well.

I have an 01 stock sensors. Not boosted at this time. Long story dont ask. Has any one figured out what is best to either leave all 12 or sand one off. If I need to remove one triger which one is optimal?

Have a great day,
Jared

 

With VVT definitely you need to remove one tooth or add one. Which one... is critical.

 

That's what I thought. Any ideas on which tooth is better?

Have a great day,
Jared

 

My answer to that question may be specific to the AEM .......

 

That is what I am putting in my car. So what's your answer?

Have a great day,
Jared

 

any updates on what you need to run it on a 1.6 long nose?

 

"-1" arrow points to best tooth to remove for a 12-1 setup for an AEM S1. Is it 50° ATDC #2 and #3, aka 130° BTDC #1 and #4.

"+1" arrow points to best tooth to add for a 12+1 setup for an AEM S1. It is 25-30% (7° - 10°) of the way between the tooth before and the tooth after (spins clockwise). It comes after the 20° ATDC #2/#3 tooth.

There are 2 requirements:
- the missing or added tooth must be away from any cam rising edges, VVT included, over its full range of phase. This is why the missing/added tooth is in the 9 o'clock area of the wheel instead of the 3 o'clock area.

- in the case of the missing tooth, the AEM will NOT time off of the missing tooth and the 5 remaining teeth that are multiples of 60° spaced from it. That is, the AEM treats a 12-1 as a 6 tooth wheel (the 6 are the "intact" ones). You want the intact teeth to be the ones that includes 40° BTDC, so that it will be the last tooth before the typical WOT spark timing of 30° to 10° BTDC. If the missing tooth is from the set that includes 40° BTDC, the last tooth the AEM will time off of before your spark event will be 70° BTDC and timing accuracy will suffer during crank acceleration.