I'm almost certain that I'll just drill and tap the pulley boss for larger bolts (M8 I'm guessing). It's the best and also cheapest way. I also have a lot of 10.9 grade bolts from McMaster so I'll just use those.

Pulley Boss is expensive.

 

Also make sure you have the 96+ pulley boss so that it is spaced correctly for the trigger wheel.

 

I do
I actually had this one for past 2 years and I bought it new at rosenthal. I broke a chunk off the original pulley boss, trying to remove it. Back then, I didn't realize you had to remove the crankshaft bolt first.....

 

1st run - blue = 299hp, 19-20 psi, my super-conservative timing
2nd run - green = 287hp, 17-18psi same timing
3rd run - red = 318hp, same boost but 3* more timing everywhere in boost

 

ok, i am sold. now i have to build one!

 

The question is why are you making slightly less power than 99mx5 with 5+psi more of boost.

 

because 99mx5 has the squaretop IM and some extra headwork and apparently never stops mkaing torque?


looks like your soft cut limiter is on at ~6800? killing your total HP.

 

he probably runs a ton more timing. I don't know. I don't really believe his numbers because he's also at 4000ft elevation

the dip in power at high rpm is just fuel map going rich as ----. I don't have a soft cut. Just hard at 7200.

 

oh okay yeah i see that.

 

tune (after 3rd pull) & 2 logs.

first log has 1st pull (299 hp)
second log has 2 & 3 pull (287 and 318 hp)

my wideband is SPOT ON as the dyno shop wideband. makes me warm and fuzzy inside.

 

Also, while it was expensive - $100 (I got AFR as well, but normally that's $35 more) - the service was damn good. They even emailed me the actual dynojet run files so I can play around with them. Finally, RPM is exactly what the engine is doing because they use a sensor and reflective tape on the crank pulley.

250lb/ft at 3.5rpm.


http://s95367906.onlinehome.us/photo/dyno.png

 

Leonid I am so happy for you.

You've broken the dyno curse.

 

What is the dip in power at ~5900rpm? It's there in a couple different graphs.

 

wanna race? I'll beat you at being slow.

 

I'm not sure. In the log, the RPM goes 7826 - 7820 - 7920. So it drops by 6 then shoots up by 100rpm. Weird.

I have these PW spikes as well. I have no idea what they are but they don't cause driveability issues.


I'm not too concerned since I'm upgrading to MS3x and 36-1 crank trigger wheel setup.

 

My timing map is based off of y8s' map and the tuner tweaked it on the dyno.

 

changed my mind

 

The timing in the msq was funky. I attached a modified msq. Only change made was to the timing table.

Here's a screenshot.



Gave you a bit more timing at the very top and quite a bit less during peak tq and below. It will prob feel noticeably slower, but will be much safer. -Should- be. You never know until you hook up knock sensor. You may be able to get away with more timing but the way the map was, you were probably knocking at full boost. If you want supersafe, I would take out another 2 degrees everywhere in boost. Nice and inefficient but who cares rape is still rape power

Also ramped your timing for vac cells too.

 

right so I figured out what happened. I was running Braineack's AC map as my souper-safe timing map. At the last pull I wanted to just bump timing by 3* but fat fingered and hit the "interpolate" button while having all the boost rows selected.

So yeah the map I got 318whp on is interpolated from 500 to 7200 RPM and 100 to 250kpa.

The map I was running for 1200 miles

http://s95367906.onlinehome.us/photo/ign.brain-ac.table

The map I fat fingered but made loads of power on

http://s95367906.onlinehome.us/photo...iet-dyno.table

The map Faeflora adjusted

http://s95367906.onlinehome.us/photo/ign.fae.table

 

Ya so comparing the the maps

With mine you will loose some power under the curve but gain some up top.