:giggle:

I'd be impressed if someone could steal my car without a flatbed and winch. there are easily 10 ways off the top of my head I could immobilize it.

I'm happy they stole it. I know how to work on my car now.
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Also made my decision on what turbo setup I'm going with. After bouncing through several different ideas and pouring over way too much information I simply wasn't happy with the interim 2560 solution. Those who have read the thread have probably come to find that I like buying something once. I don't like wasting my money on something I won't be truly happy with; a problem I've always had is trying to by quality, and not save my money on something I know is inferior.

This brought me into an issue though, since I wasn't ready to drop over $4k on a new manifold, downpipe, and turbo.

Luckily, Bryan, At Fab9tuning approached me about a solution I may be interested in that he had been developing with Gleasman Manufacturing and Boostedsmurf. They were in the process of making a tubular side mount V-band manifold that would clear the AC and power steering while still providing a good flow all while not being ludicrously expensive.

• Full Stainless Construction
• Sch10 Thick Wall 304 Stainless
• 0.500” CNC’d Flange
• Oval to Round Port Transitions
• Fully Back Purged Tig Welded Fabrication
• High Flow Merge Collector

Since I've bought a lot of stuff from Bryan, this seemed like a good solution, while still getting the quality I wanted, but not breaking the bank.

So for those who haven't seen his product announcement page(linky), check it out, it is a really well made unit. All 4 manifolds and downpipes have sold already, but he is currently in production on the second batch. He told me he is trying to have at least 5 in inventory at all times to avoid those pesky waiting periods one has when waiting for an alternate custom solution.

I'm going to be pairing it with an EFR 6258. I was contemplating the 6758, due to it not spooling much slower than the 6258, and the possibility of having EGTs being a little high on the track, but after a ton of research, it seems like it won't be an issue.

Shooting for a nice smooth 300hp to start out with, and playing around with lower or higher boost depending on how smoothly I can dial in the EBC.

Plan I getting the car professionally tuned by a dyno shop down in Vegas after my ATI damper is installed and 12-1 trigger wheel, by a guy that mainly works with Megasquirt and tunerstudio.

I'll potentially have this either by the end of this week or the following depending on how busy he is.

Here are some of his photos in the mean time.

(sorry didn't mean to rant, just a little excited about getting a good solution)

Exhaust Flange
Attachment 238350

Collector v-mount flange
Attachment 238351
Attachment 238352

manifold
Attachment 238353

Nice lookin' welds
Attachment 238354

Position in the engine bay
Attachment 238355

unfinished downpipe(final piece will be a mandrel bent curve for better flow)
Attachment 238356

The timing of this new manifold and dp was just too perfect to pass up huh.

If he wasn't on the east coast I would've had a hard time believe Bryan didn't break into my garage and sabotage my turbo.:fawk:

Unbelievably perfect timing.

Its such a great price too. Can't wait to see it come together. Any ceramic coating planned?

After seeing how long EO2K waited, no. I have a great venting and cooling setup though so I'm not too worried about it. May possibly wrap the downpipe to help keep the heat out of the cabin better, and of course a heat shield, but the money isn't necessary, even more so the downtime.

Makes sense. Can't wait to see how this turns out!

You whore :giggle:

:party:

hahahahha I saw that thread and KNEW it was only a matter of time :party:

Man that looks great. Can't wait to see it on.

The willpower is weak:crx:

I like feel bad for going for more of a budget setup when something like this exists.

Most important thing to remember is not to go outside of your financial means. You start hating the car if you get yourself in the danger zone monetarily speaking.

Well I'm definitely going to live within my means. And improvements can always be made. I'll be going with Lars' kit, mated with one of the Fab9 intercoolers, and I'm still up in the air with piping. But hey, it's going to do everything I want it to do.

Well I wasn't wrong!

I'm a little jealous that you'll have the hotside installed on your car and actually running before me though haha

This is so true. When building your car stresses you out financially you'll be stressed out with everything else going on and just hate the entire project. Speaking from experience of course, working 70+ hour weeks just to build a car

Yup you called it...it's like you build cars as I do! All at once.

I feel a little guilty that it'll be running before your beast is, but it helps I only have to bolt the the Mani, DP, and turbo on and run new stainless lines to get mine running again. You still have a few more baby steps to go.

I am so excited to see that 7163 in action though. You and Bryan are nuts.

That's okay though, I figure it'll be worth the wait and stress lol. It'll be exciting to see how the setup works on your car though

Anyone know the size of the oil filter sandwich plate nut? Biggest I have is a 24mm socket and I don't want to chance damaging the threads using vice grips.

Man that lower left intake manifold nut is a bitch when the motor is in the car.

Attachment 238289

It's a 25 or 26. I'd measure it except that Curly has my motor right now.

Edit. How can you work on a miata engine without a 25mm?

I really haven't touched the motor at all hence the lack of a 25/26. I guess I'll need one soon as I'm putting an ATI damper and 12-1 trigger on soon.

Good time to change the timing belt with a nice blue Gates as well even though it only has 20k on it?

Thinking I may tap the Mocal sandwich plate in 2 more places for turbo oil feed and oil temp gauge.

Also, the Mocal plate doesn't seem to have the 2 coolant ports as the OEM one does. Are people just running a coolant line from the front of the motor to the rear? Doesn't seem necessary to cool the plate any more with the 25 row setrab.

I believe you need to keep the stock piece as a spacer otherwise you can't put fittings onto the thermostat plate iirc.

Put the gates belt on with the ati damper, yes. It's a pita to install /remove.

I think it's a 28mm. NAs and NBs are different IIRC.

I usually cut it down an inch or so when installing a sandwich plate so that the OE piece can be removed. Mock your sandwich plate up first with your AN lines installed to make sure they will clear everything without the factory piece installed.

What are you going to use a 25/26 on doing the timing belt? The crank bolt is 21. The big bolt on the oil filter mount is the only one I know that size on the car.

If you're putting an ATI on, definitely do the timing belt at the same time because it's a PITA to take it off and do it later.

I think most people just delete the coolant line going down the intake side. The factory oil warmer isn't very useful (except as a spacer), and the throttle body heater may or may not be useful depending on how cold it gets where you live. I removed the front feed when I did the reroute, and just capped off the port on the back of the head, this eliminates potential coolant failure points.

--Ian

Most people put their sandwich plates on top of that oil warmer. Also, it's an oil warmer that helps your oil temp come up to spec faster. Important if you live in cold weather.

Cold weather isn't a big deal as it is just a weekend car/track car.

Curly how did you cap your coolant ports on the back/front? Just weld the bungs shut after cutting them off? I have some rubber caps, but as you stated, it is still a failure point.

Also, it is ridiculous how fast those rubber caps start to crack on the intake manifold. Anyone point me in a direction that won't wear out as fast from heat? I'm guessing there are silicone versions?

I had the same problem on my 318is when I modded the heater hose routing to eliminate a throttle body heater. I found these on ebay under the search "silicone cap" under industrial and automotive. They don't heat cycle out in a few months like the Autozone caps.

eBay link

I think I ended up using a giant 1 1/8" SAE socket to get that nut off there, but I'm using an NB block so apparently bigger nut. YMMV

The nut on the NB for the oil cooler spacer is 27mm. I know because I had to buy the socket very recently. No idea if the NA is smaller.

Everyone says they are huge but compared to my 2860 it seems small.

Me gusta.

Attachment 238281

Damn that looks amazing.

That looks sexcellent. Beautiful. Now manifold pics please.

Mixing manifold and thermostat neck (if keeping) are twisted out, and welded shut. As for the rear port on the head, I use a piece of high quality hose (fuel pressure hose works well), a bolt, and 2 clamps. That's THE best "cap" you can buy, anything else will fail quickly. I have one of these "ghetto" caps on Laz's, Oregonmon's, my own, and my friend's VVT build. I also recently found the same on Ed's TSE built MSM motor, so yeah, that's your answer.

Damn you and your flawless turbine housing. I said I wasn't going to do it, but now that I have the time I'm seriously considering having mine coated.

I hadn't realized I was this vain :giggle:

I was just about to comment yesterday about how his is smooth as a 12yo and yours looks like a 85yo prostitute :giggle:

Good lord that's a vivid picture. I just had lunch Vlad! Damn you.

Is it welded between the outlet and the body of the turbine housing?

Yeah... or like my turbine housing has been doing meth.
I believe its all one continuous casting, I've been looking at a lot of housings recently :loser:

lulzz

I was actually eating when I posted that, so I toned it down

Why does your EFR have a black data tag? Mine has a blue one and the only other ones I've seen with blue data tags were Soviets self disassembling 6258s... :eek4dance
Does anyone know if this actually indicate some production change?

does your borgwarner have "JDM Thubochager" on it G?

:laugh:

did it come from china/

I bought it from FAB :hahano:

Black tag indicates that the chra core and housings are better than your living on the streets crack whore EFR. It also has no meaning to me whatsoever, no clue :shrug:

If you coat your housing, making you wait another 4 weeks, for superficial reasons...I'll slap you G.

I know the early 6258 had problems do maybe the newer units have been revised.

An even simpler answer is the black tags were 1 cent cheaper or they ran out of blue! :laugh:

And yes the irony of me commenting on waiting due to superficial reasons is hilariously hypocritical.

I've fucked something else up and I'm pretty sure I've got another 6 weeks to wait before I can get my engine together. So :p

Maybe I'll just buy my EFR a blankie.
I should NOT have an early unit. My 'faces of meth' housing is due to BW shutting down production, fixing the problem, then moving from investment casting to sand casting the turbine housings. Sand is faster and cheaper but much uglier.
I'm just going to shit my pants and email FAB, Full-Race and BW and get confirmation. I'm starting to feel like Hustler.
Yes, Mr. Watch Me Polish My PPF / Re-cad plate ALLTHETHINGS! :laugh:

Of all the things I did to my car sending all my bolts to get zinc coated was by far the best thing I did.

Nothing makes your car look better, and easier to work on then clean bolts.

If I ever find the time to go to a salvage yard that has a Miata I. Gonna strip it of all its bolts and zinc plate them for spares.

You are a sick, deranged individual. :party:

Shhhh. We talk him into getting a spare for every single part. Then, after he's polished/refurbished/painted everything, we sneak in and get the parts for assembling a brand new car.

Wait, didn't he have a spare tub? Like 67 pages ago, that white one... :giggle:

Can you zinc-plate the entire chassis?

--Ian

I want to powdercoat an entire chassis after seeing how bad non-oem paint quality is unless you spend close to 8k for a legit paint job.

I just threw away like 4 boxes of just random ass parts that I have no energy to sell/wouldn't make enough to sell.

Still have 2 boxes of brand new fresh powdercoated stuff I never ended up putting back on bcsracecar.

I still need to throw a bunch of shit out that isn't worth selling. Too much crap has accumulated that has sat there since day 1.

To bring back one of my favorite nope gifs....

I ain't no beiber ruining a good car!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423615320

Craigslist it for free. You never know what people might need. Make 'em take it all or nothing.

Post a picture of powdercoated/zinc coated brackets and bolts. You never know who would want the stuff.

Getting my valve cover powder coated made me really want a home powder coating setup. It is unbelievable better than paint. I would love to be able to powder coat any little bracket I make or whatnot.

Don't you have 220 in your garage? CL oven, baby.

I'm moving back to Portland in June otherwise I would. And 220 "near" the garage is high up on the list.

That's a lot of garage floorspace to dedicate to powder coating.

--Ian

The only major difference I can think of is the center assembly is aluminum on Jeff's turbo.