That does not look like a Bat-Inc order list. :nono:

Meh, I ordered it all through Fab9. I trust him that he doesn't buy shit connectors.

Where is all this plumbing stuff on his website? Am I blind?

Nope, I just used a different website to organize all the parts I needed and then gave him the information. He can get anything and everything, he just doesn't have it on his site.

Should have just told him he was blind.

^ +1

Its a distinct possibility after so many years sitting in front of computer displays.

I'd have bought my plumbing from Fab had I known he carried that kind of stuff :(

I hadn't a clue myself until I was chatting with him on facebook about plumbing solutions.

He can and will get you just about anything.

What is this, zombo.com ?

That was a pretty damn egregiously ambiguous reference...weird ass site.

This is true. Can't even keep track of the times I message him about any little things I need and he never fails.

I just noticed... y u -10 drain?

EFR is tapped for 3/8" NPT and they recommend -8 in the manual. I mean, bigger is probably better, but I'm trying to decide if I want to buy a flange or not for mine.

The drain flange I bought has a -10an bung on it, so i don't need to mess with a NPT to -an adapter(potential leak)and my oil pan has a 10an bung welded to it so that is what I've always used. *shrug*

I don't think that list is 100% accurate, I changed it a bit on my final order.

I just hope I bought the correct connectors for everything, guess we'll find out Thurs/Fri when it arrives.

Who needs an exhaust! ;) #bcsracecar

Attachment 238125

I don't think I'll ever comprehend how this car stays so damn clean. Seriously.

clearly photoshopped :giggle:

It stays clean because I don't like working on dirty things. Plus, when you clean often, it is easy. It's only when it builds up when it becomes a PITA.

Here is a small peek at the setup. Install was easy, ridiculously so. It took a bit to wrap my brain around how to align all the vband flanges correctly, not due to things being misaligned, just never worked with aligning 4 flanges before. It isn't rubbing on anything either, it clears the heater core hoses perfectly and slipped in between the transmission and firewall without effort.

Unfortunately he couldn't get the connectors to me on time, the company he drop shipped from dropped the ball, not FAB9's fault. I need to weld a foot long section onto my downpipe to meet up with my ARTech midpipe. Twas Saturday though, so no welder was available.

It really is a beautiful manifold and downpipe. Just full of oontzy quality. Exhaust manifold nuts have never been easier to torque down, and super easy to get a wrench on all of them.

I'm at my parents new house right now, so no internet yet, so I'll upload some more photos on Monday, but I got this one up.

Attachment 238124

I'm pretty sure that cleaning the transmission is a PITA even if you do it every weekend. :)

--Ian

Power washer + steam cleaner + long hair brush for the gunned on crap and then a quick once over with the steam cleaner once a month...maybe I have just done it so often I have a system and it's easier for me?...

Maybe you're just the only one of us that actually steam cleans his car once a month.

True...it does seem odd when you word it like that...

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...31f600e1e3.jpg

:laugh:

I'm right there with you Jeff, just not to the same degree tho.
I pressure washed every single one of my cars bays at least once, including the complete underbelly/bottom of engine/trans/etc.

Anything less just feels.................dirty

I need to post pics of the bottom end of the FE in my pickup, just to watch you two squirm. :giggle:

You should have seen mine after Mudfest :giggle:

I'll post up video if I can find it. Mud up to the middle of the doors. It was awesome until I snapped an axle shaft.

Spent 4 hours power washing, and that was just the frame and bed, didn't even get to the engine bay.

He just hires the fire department bi-weekly
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1426480546

While I'm waiting for the last of the turbo parts I thought I'd finally get off my ass and get my oil cooler finished up.

Learned the hard way that you have to be careful threading the 2 pieces of the connector together as I stripped my first one. Since I needed a new connector I thought I'd try out the nylon braided line, rather than the stainless braided. It is SO much easier to use. Easy to cut, easy to push in, no stabbing your fingers, and it looks 10x better as well IMHO.

Attachment 238099

Luckily I didn't have to cut any of the oil sandwich thread off since I'm using the larger oil filter it can thread on further.

I was able to clock it at around 1 o' clock to clear the intake manifold as well as the studs.

Attachment 238100

Used a couple clamps to make sure they don't move around. Not the prettiest, but the coolant hose will be covering it up so, meh...

Attachment 238101

The oil cooler position is perfect for hose routing. I believe each length is 12-18". So no extra oil or clutter.

Attachment 238102

What's the easiest way to "prime" the cooler and lines without making a huge mess? I read the cooler tends to self prime itself, and the whole "trapped air" issue is blown out of proportion, just don't want to run into an oil starvation issue.

Unplug the CAS (or whatever gives you an ignition/fuel injection pulse) and crank until you see oil pressure. Just like starting a new engine.

Note that the path to the oil cooler is never blocked by the sandwich plate. The only thing the thermostat does is open a bypass. It never blocks. Failsafe.

Looks good!!

Is there enough smack in the oil lines to allow for engine movement?

Yes sir. Put an extra 1.5" in each hose to account for it. Plus the swivel connectors can move an additional 1/2".

Wait, you removed the heat exchanger and the mocal fit against the block, and no addon nipple? Is that what I'm seeing in this pic on my phone?
What PN filter are you using?
NICE. Thanks for proving this works and taking pics. I keep telling people this will fit but everyone keeps calling me a liar. :giggle:

I'm waiting on buying a full PLX gauge setup so I'll tap it when I purchase it.


Reason I didn't use the OEM sandwich plate was I'd have to by a longer threaded tube to get both to fit. I'm getting fidgety and impatient to get this thing running this weekend! Ain't nobody got time for that.

This is literally the only way it works being clocked this way otherwise the AN connectors contact the starter or alternator, and clocking it down hits the block and doesn't allow it to seal against the block properly.

Its gonna be annoying getting the manifold nuts on the studs, but it doesn't hit the manifold this way.
*edit* I'll get you the P/N later G*

In a partially related story, somebody sent me a big bag of tape. I'm happy about it.

Plumbing for the turbo almost finished up. Waiting on some -4an line for the oil feed and a 45° -10 oil return.

Due to having a Mocal sandwich plate I didn't need the front coolant line T'd off to the back of the block anymore so I was able to clean up the front of the engine bay quite a bit.

Used -6an for the coolant lines with a barbed -6an for the silicone hose side. On the CHRA coolant ports I used a 14mm thread to -6an coupler and a 90° -6an off of that. Turned out nice. The picture angle makes it seem to be resting on the alternator belt but it has 1 1/2" of clearance and isn't going to potentially rub.

Attachment 238072

Just need a new air filter elbow and a couple other pieces and we are in business. Making AN lines is strangely zen like. It is pretty relaxing work. The nylon line is so easy to work with. Angle grinder makes a super clean cut to insert it into the fitting.

Attachment 238073

Attachment 238074

Attachment 238075

You know, lines to the turbo is one place where you might think about using SS braid instead. The SS is useful:

1. Wherever you need really high strength/impact resistance, like if you were running lines where they are potentially exposed to rocks/debris.

2. Wherever you need protection from radiative heat transfer. The SS is shiny and reflective and does this naturally. At the very least, you might consider some reflective covering in there where the lines are close to the turbine housing. It looks like you have good separation from the manifold.

Thumbs up!

Those are good points, and something I considered. In comparing the two, they had the same ambient heat thresholds and essentially the same specs across the road. In terms of radiative transfer I agree stainless is better. May just buy a bit of fire sleeve for the coolant line closest to the manifold, as it is a little close.

I honestly should have bought 120° fittings instead of 90°. Would have sucked the lines in towards the CHRA a little better.

Glorious. I'm still figuring out my plumbing so this all helps :bigtu:

Wow, looks great (as usual) Jeff.

Being my first time messing with AN fittings it has certainly taught me to octuple check part numbers and what I ACTUALLY need. Wasted a bit of money buying the wrong stuff. All my fault for not reading fine print on the part numbers. The good news is Summit Racing has a warehouse in Sparks, NV so next day air is only $25! This has nothing to do with FAB9, he is just on the other side of the country so shipping is 5 days unless i pay a lot for shipping and I actually want to make the next event in St George 2 weeks away. Rare to have an event I don't have to drive 2+ hours for.

I'm still in awe at how good that manifold and turbo look bolted up. This thing needs to run!

Soon. First, more polishing.

Ya what hornetball said,

Be careful with the nylon. I gave myself some extra slack on the coolant line and oil line 'log manifold', but still noticed them melting slightly, put some heat tape on and haven't had a problem since, so just keep your eye on it.

Thanks for the first hand experience with it CBM. I have some fire sleeve wrap left over from my coolant lines that I'll just use metal zip ties with for the 4-6" that are closest to the header.

Got my intake manifold back on, oil drain and oil feed routed correctly so all that is left is:

-misc vacuum line routing
-Cut 45° silicone elbow for compressor outlet
-cut aluminum pipe to length and get someone to bead roll it for intake manifold piping(no need for BOV port)
-weld 1/8NPT into said aluminum
-make a new air intake box to accommodate new filter position
-make a new COP harness(old one iffy)
-run downpipe only and take it to an exhaust shop to get the DP tied into the midpipe

I hopefully can get this all done tomorrow work permitting...

I'm still waffling on nylon or ss for my drain. I detest SS but I'm worried about melting nylon seeing as it runs super close to one of the primaries.

Any chance you have pics from a slightly lower angle? I'm curious as to how all this is actually routed. Good show as usual :bigtu:

Except that firesleeve (especially black firesleeve) doesn't do squat for radiation.

You need something reflective. Seriously.

Right, like one of the eleventy-billion reflective sleeve products on the market.

Gotcha, aluminum tape it is until I find something better.

Oil return 45° 10an
Attachment 238029

Attachment 238030

Coolant
Attachment 238031

Attachment 238032

Coming all together!

Attachment 238033

Oh, you sexy beast! Thanks and more props for you! Not that you need them :giggle:

That's the FM lower radiator hose with the TSE radiator?

They are becoming Pokemon to me...gotta collect them all! ;)
Yes sir, fits no problem.

FM owes me like $300 in store credit, I'm just not sure I want to spend $45 on a radiator hose.

OH MY GOD I think FM finally updated their website :eek5:

Hahaha I was on FM 's site the other day and was like whatttttt the fuuucccckkkkkk. Thought it was the wrong site at first lmao

When you buy Mil-spec wiring they make you buy a minimum amount...think I'm good on 18g milspec...forever.

Attachment 238026

Wiring is serious business. No solder planned except for the igniter(wish I could just use something else).

Attachment 238027

Too bad you'll have to replace all those scarred up AN fittings now :giggle:

Ugh, right? Shoulda bought the AN wrenches...which I am now buying

Honestly the more the car goes race car the less I'm caring about minor dings and scratches. I'll never not clean, but some things are hard to avoid. When tearing Into your engine bay as often as I have.

So many good wiring things! I'm really glad I'm letting my friend build my engine harness rather than dealing with that headache! Although I do still need to buy all the wires for him to start once I get my engine in the car.

That hotside looks so good in your engine bay! You're making me want to go braided nylon for my oil cooler and catch can lines pretty badly too! Think I'm going to do stainless for the turbo lines though after the discussion in here about it

I did the same damn thing on the first AN fittings I made, then I used painters tape and wrapped it around the part I needed to grip too, and used an adjustable wrenches.

Now why did I think this was so hard the first time? New connectors, quality wire, decent crimpers and self adhering tape made getting to this step take 20 minutes.

Attachment 238025

Adding some nice service loops?

:)

Cant wait to hear your oppinion on the new hot side setup... what boost do you plan to run?

No service loops just more wire exposed after the connector than I did before to give it more range of motion/flex. Trying to decide if I want to even use shrink wrap or just use the magic tape I was sent.

Work had been kicking my ass these past few days so I haven't touched it much. Getting gheld up by the cold side pipe getting an aluminum NPT bung welded onto it.

Had to change the pipe since I no longer need the BOV bung and I think the Flyin' Miata pipe is a piece of shit. The curve they added makes it so difficult to get it to slip on easily. Not even needed either. Just bought an 18" straight aluminum pipe. Getting some beads welded on as well since I can't find anyone that can bead roll pipe. I know you can DIY but I don't have time to can it all up.

Reason I dont have time is due to reserving a dyno time on Wednesday in Las Vegas to get my shit properly tuned. I can do it, but there is a lot of frustrated remarks along the way.

Should be fun to do an allofit run and then detune it for spool priority.

My compressor piping just BARELY works. Like a very tight glove. Bought a 45° elbow and it just barely let my one piece pipe couple without causing a pinched area near the intercooler. Would be nice if I could clock the turbo straight down but it works with no compromise so win!

Attachment 238017

Attachment 238018

Also love the new 2.5 air filter inlet. Made the new filter fit perfect with no shoving or smashing.

Attachment 238019

Just need to finish everything before O' Dark Thirty with our new neighbors. Don't want them to hate me by starting a downpipe exit Miata at 2am...