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Old 04-06-2016, 08:19 PM   #81
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You should check min and Max by doing pulls not like that. It may open at 7% but it might not open enough to change spool until 30%. That's why each setup can be different
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Old 04-06-2016, 09:32 PM   #82
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Good point, I was running 10% & 100% before by logging pulls but I had gone from 90% to 100%. I mainly wanted to see if 95, 96, 97% ect... was visible on the gauge or not. I will play with the low end again and pour over some older logs. Thanks!
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Old 04-07-2016, 05:28 PM   #83
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So my rings when today. Compression before today, about a week ago, 180-175-165-175, Ok but not great. Then today after a few pulls, no knock, no leaning up top. 180-180-130-145, poor motor was probably tired and neglected. I feel like I need a hug, Also oil turned black quick so Blow by, YAY...fml
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Old 04-24-2016, 04:44 PM   #84
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So after I found out my engine had blow by, I had no where to go. Either quit and pack my bags I.E. sell car or drive it until it goes for good, or replace/ rebuild. Anyway a week later I found another 95 for sale that was a part out car, motor had 182k and needed a head gasket most likely, owner also said a rebuild wouldn't hurt. So I decided on a rebuild of a 200$ 95 long block.

Note the ricey valve cover

This is where I'm at right now, block looks good, still has factory cross hatching and is gunk'd and ready to be honed (going to use the diy "deglazer")

Trying to keep barn destruction to a minimum, in the background is a 1942 Dodge WC 52, used in Normandy, the only hobby my father really has is with that thing

Then I saw this, keyway walk? The crank keyway is damaged somewhat, could I do the 1.6 loctite fix? I'm guessing that the pulley and sprocket were put in wrong. Anyone care to elaborate?

The key was destroyed, harmonic damper issue?



Im not engine expert so I don't know what constitutes a *clean" engine, but this one was gunk free, besides some slight surface rust on the cams which at the worst will wire brush off. Note none of the rust is on the lobe part. I'll read up on this and see what I can find.
Attached Thumbnails
95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap-80-img_20160421_095913_e5fb61a21b4e4fc745d0c73a58fcf3e8c56bab9c.jpg   95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap-80-img_20160424_153037_d97a6ad7cb34989b3a13f98d12ae242a947d7a67.jpg   95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap-80-img_20160424_152005541_0c318733c05e93d5dc817bf0c94baebcbbec1f1f.jpg   95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap-80-img_20160423_093003196_b03391b360c665de473e003a050a73f997e97e59.jpg   95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap-80-img_20160423_092954590_64a653cdbd0cf602742dab139ee60779c2e067d7.jpg  

95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap-80-img_20160423_081805252_hdr_e8753bdea8834935b141bb7abd616d2d1b11e226.jpg   95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap-80-img_20160423_081812923_557d14b1385a40c3bb773beb57a91031304ab9a3.jpg  
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Old 04-24-2016, 04:45 PM   #85
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So after I found out my engine had blow by, I had no where to go. Either quit and pack my bags I.E. sell car or drive it until it goes for good, or replace/ rebuild. Anyway a week later I found another 95 for sale that was a part out car, motor had 182k and needed a head gasket most likely, owner also said a rebuild wouldn't hurt. So I decided on a rebuild of a 200$ 95 long block.

Note the ricey valve cover

This is where I'm at right now, block looks good, still has factory cross hatching and is gunk'd and ready to be honed (going to use the diy "deglazer")

Trying to keep barn destruction to a minimum, in the background is a 1942 Dodge WC 52, used in Normandy, the only hobby my father really has is with that thing

Then I saw this, keyway walk? The crank keyway is damaged somewhat, could I do the 1.6 loctite fix? I'm guessing that the pulley and sprocket were put in wrong. Anyone care to elaborate?

The key was destroyed, harmonic damper issue?



Im not engine expert so I don't know what constitutes a *clean" engine, but this one was gunk free, besides some slight surface rust on the cams which at the worst will wire brush off. Note none of the rust is on the lobe part. I'll read up on this and see what I can find.
Attached Thumbnails
95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap-80-img_20160421_095913_e5fb61a21b4e4fc745d0c73a58fcf3e8c56bab9c.jpg   95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap-80-img_20160424_153037_d97a6ad7cb34989b3a13f98d12ae242a947d7a67.jpg   95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap-80-img_20160424_152005541_0c318733c05e93d5dc817bf0c94baebcbbec1f1f.jpg   95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap-80-img_20160423_093003196_b03391b360c665de473e003a050a73f997e97e59.jpg   95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap-80-img_20160423_092954590_64a653cdbd0cf602742dab139ee60779c2e067d7.jpg  

95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap-80-img_20160423_081805252_hdr_e8753bdea8834935b141bb7abd616d2d1b11e226.jpg   95m goes kinda fast for kinda cheap-80-img_20160423_081812923_557d14b1385a40c3bb773beb57a91031304ab9a3.jpg  
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Old 07-18-2016, 10:32 PM   #86
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so I'm sure a lot of you are face palming pretty hard about the keyway issue. I'm trying a Loctite fix, which looks like it works, obviously someone didn't torque the harmonic damper to spec. I might swap cranks when I pull the motor. The old motor is still running and has the compression numbers from before, so the rings were just worn I guess. I've put 1500 miles on the whole turbo setup and no issues with the manifold or turbo to report. Only a few fuel leaks from the injector spacers, but I'm pretty sure I've resolved them. Got some new 16x7 wheels and new tires, added a gv lip, and I'm looking for a hardtop. One's for sale for 500$ a days drive away from me, tempting. My main concern is to swap motors before I go back to school at the end of august. As far as the megasquirt goes I'm running 029Y4 and it seems to run fine. I don't know how much better Hi-res is but I have the code saved somewhere, I just need a windows 7 computer to reflash. My fans, iacv, and tach issues have all been resolved. Also I re-ported the turbo and now I don't hit overboost, which that's always good. The exhaust still hits the steering rack if I turn left extremely hard, will probably fix when I pull the motor. Also got some megan motor mounts to replace my worn stock ones, should also help the exhaust problem.
Here's a picture




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Old 07-19-2016, 08:49 AM   #87
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Move your front license plate off to the side of the mouth. You can block airflow with where you have it and cause cooling issues. Building a new bracket is like $10 in parts or something.
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Old 07-19-2016, 09:16 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Move your front license plate off to the side of the mouth. You can block airflow with where you have it and cause cooling issues. Building a new bracket is like $10 in parts or something.
thanks for the input lars, I haven't experienced any overheating issues since I heat wrapped the down pipe and wired up slim fans. I would move the plate if I experience any more overheating issues. The real problem I have with that is that the company I hired to paint the car didn't remove the plate, as well as the front bumper has indentations for the plate to be mounted there
Btw I saw Jxphan's setup at miata day, you're welding looks amazing and that magnaflow really is huge, really wish I was that talented with a welder!
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:15 AM   #89
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I have the front plate on mine mounted like that. It is fine on the street (though I am N/A), but autocross or track it overheats.
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Old 08-07-2016, 10:21 PM   #90
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So I decided to swap motors last weekend. The whole endeavor took around 3 days. Day one was the pull and cleaning of the bay, day 2 was swapping parts, day 3 was reinstallation. Here are some pictures, they might be out of order, trying to fix that sorry. The taco taco is holding up fine with around 2.5k on it. The rebuild motor has around 100 miles on it now, had crank wobble but found out I was sent an snc key from tcm, swapped it out with the proper 1.8 key and redid the loctite fix. The original valve cover had a crack in it so I picked up a protege one. Having lots of tuner studio issue, I'm still not on hi-res right now and I am having typical connection issues after updating to tuner studio 3.0
I know I should just get ms2 but I'm done pumping money into this car for now I want to enjoy it. I know this car isn't perfect but it's come a long way since I first got it, also I'm still in high school so my budget is limited. Thanks for following this thread, I think I can call it quits here






















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Old 09-06-2016, 08:30 PM   #91
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So another update. I have not been to the dyno yet but I'm pretty content at 9 psi. Car really only needs an alignment and it should be good to go. I've had a few hoses go but that was mainly negligence from me not replacing 20+ year old rubber, I'm sure most of you hate old rubber. I also think I might of screwed up my main seal putting it in. It threw oil everywhere and dripped a few drops when parked. So I set out to replace and accidentally put a cam seal. Then I found my spare crank seal and fixed it, I think it stopped leaking so I'm calling this one a win. Also it needs a clutch slave, no biggie 20$ on Amazon. I had a break line melt, my fault, replaced the melted section because I was unable to find a whole new section. I also think there is a tuning company local to me who tunes for a somewhat reasonable price, some Miata.net old timer was telling me about them. I've got about 750 miles on the rebuild, it fun as hell, loving the car a **** ton. I also swapped out my wrx 440s due to the seals not staying in the injector spacers. I switched to rx8's. I also might switch to ms2 soon to. I picked up a roll bar and got some free fallen azenis rt615k's for free too. Hopefully I can get and alignment and improve the tune enough to find an auto cross event before the winter rolls around.
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Old 09-14-2016, 08:48 AM   #92
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Oil pump went earlier this week, looks like the motor will be coming out and I'll be getting rid of the cancerous crank that is in there right now. So new bearings, new pump, and that should be it. Maybe power wash the bay again
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Old 09-14-2016, 07:47 PM   #93
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Worked on the car for a few hours today. Started pretty much just unplugging stuff. Tomorrow hopefully I can do all the shitty under the car stuff, then have it out by Saturday. I also pulled the crank from original motor, it looks fine. Bearings looked pretty good for 103k
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:13 PM   #94
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forgot I had this gem
I hit 8 psi in 3rd gear, I know my down pipe and manifold are like the worst possible spooling setup for this turbo, I was talking to jimmy, jxphan on here, and he said he hits 10 or 12 psi in 3rd gear. But is this spool relatively what it should be? I mean 1st gear is only really a few pounds at best. 3rd gear is really fun, I just want to drive this though

also I'm running really short bolts on the manifold to turbo, I want to fix this asap. Anybody know the pitch off the top of their head? I have the begi studs for the block to manifold.
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Old 09-18-2016, 11:38 AM   #95
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I think they are 10x1.5 but not positive.
That's interesting about you guys only getting few pounds in 1st. I remember talk about that very early in the MKTURBO thread. I need to look at my logs to verify, but pretty sure I am hitting 14 or 15psi by the top of 1st gear, even with the huge .60a/r compressor.
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Old 09-18-2016, 10:09 PM   #96
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I'll check and try to find some Inconel studs. Jimmy is hitting 12 psi in 3rd, big leap from 8. I think I hit 8 in second though, but its probably pretty high up
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Old 09-18-2016, 10:23 PM   #97
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we are tapping our waste gate signal lines through our compressor housing, I'm pretty sure that's the culprit
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Old 09-22-2016, 08:37 PM   #98
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What was the oil pump oring Lars was talking about, I have the pump to block, front main seal, and the oil pump to pick up gasket. What am I missing?
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Old 09-22-2016, 09:37 PM   #99
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So I'll do a full write up of what I did today instead of lots of short posts on my phone.
I pulled the crank shaft today, realized I forgot to order the sump gasket, rear main seal gasket, and the oil pump gasket. So I put an order in for them and hopefully they should be here soon. I ordered my spacer, block off plate, and gaskets from begi. The rest of the stuff like the hose, T-Stat, and water neck I was able to get from amazon. I'm in at about 170-175$ for the reroute. Fingers crossed it doesn't leak. I also ordered their turbo mounting hardware. I know that the TSE studs are the hot item but I couldn't bring my self to spend 145$ on studs for a street/auto x car. I also installed the begi extended studs that I bought a while ago for the head, they look a lot better than home cheapo bolts. I'm also going to shorten the oil return line. Unfortunately between the oil return line and the intercooler pipe, there isn't much room for the lower radiator hose. I switched to a 1 piece gates hose from an NB, I'll try and put a 90 degree straight from the turbo and try to clear up some room, I just don't know if the PS pump will get in the way. I plan to add another Vband to the exhaust now too, it's currently just the down pipe and the rest of the exhaust, so 2 pieces. I also want to get my IACV working, I'm not on hi-res anymore because I lost my firmware and I can't get 64 bit windows to reflash hi-res. Also discover my thrust bearing went, which got microscopic metal shavings in the oil, ruined the rest of the bearings. It's the right thrust bearing, installed with the notches facing out, I don't understand what went wrong but then again I don't really know how its supposed to work.
So that's my hopes and dreams for now. Maybe I'll get some pictures of bearing destruction up, maybe I won't
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Old 09-22-2016, 09:42 PM   #100
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Not sure if I am reading this right but you don't want a 90 coming right off the turbo for an oil drain.
It will cause you problems.
Oh and I run the regular studs supplied with the MKTURBO kit.
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