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Old 09-22-2016, 09:42 PM   #101
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But I don't autox.
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Old 09-22-2016, 09:53 PM   #102
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Not sure if I am reading this right but you don't want a 90 coming right off the turbo for an oil drain.
It will cause you problems.
Oh and I run the regular studs supplied with the MKTURBO kit.
I mean a 90 off the turbo for intercooler piping, probably should of clarified that
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Old 09-22-2016, 10:14 PM   #103
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Just making sure
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Old 09-22-2016, 10:15 PM   #104
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haha it's late
I just want to drive this damn car, in the 9 months I've been building I don't think I've gotten it to 100% of its potential
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Old 09-22-2016, 10:21 PM   #105
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Also sonofthehill, where are you getting a wastegate signal from?
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Old 10-02-2016, 11:39 PM   #106
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Put the bottom end back together today. Measured just about everything except endplay which I will do eventually. If any one could take the time to explain to me the purpose of a thrust bearing I would greatly appreciate it. I picked up a new daily driver, an 2005 mazda tribute with 150k. Here's the kicker, got it for free. My grandfather has/had a used car dealership, he getting ready to retire so all the old stock is on its way out. Should be easier to daily and drive in the winter than the miata Anyway the oil pump has to go back on and the pan. I got my reroute stuff from begi. I followed revlimiter's write on it. I was about 170$-180$ in by the end of it all. I was also thinking would my head be trashed from running with no oil? I would bet it is because I wiped off the cam and cam surfaces before reassemble. Fingers crossed they look ok though.
I was thinking about adding a real oil pressure gauge. Any input?
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-SP0F000052-Style-Mechanical-Pressure/dp/B00UM9X4UW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1475465350&sr=8-3&keywords=oil+pressure+gauge

Last edited by Forrest95M; 10-03-2016 at 10:47 PM.
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Old 10-03-2016, 12:28 PM   #107
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When you push on the clutch it pushes on the flywheel which pushes on the crank. You need something to control the front to back movement of the crank.
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Old 10-03-2016, 12:31 PM   #108
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Sorry for the late reply, my wastegate pressure is sourced about 3 or 4 inches outside of the throttle body. Post IC pre throttle body. I run my EBC solenoid in the wiper cowl, so it is difficult to see.
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Old 10-03-2016, 10:21 PM   #109
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When you push on the clutch it pushes on the flywheel which pushes on the crank. You need something to control the front to back movement of the crank.
So why would you want endplay at all? would any amount of movement in the slightest cause wear? I would assume that there is an oil clearance right, although there is no direct oil passage to the bearing itself
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Old 10-03-2016, 10:29 PM   #110
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Don't know for sure but I assume it's because without any clearance it will self clearance?
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Old 10-03-2016, 10:35 PM   #111
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Don't know for sure but I assume it's because without any clearance it will self clearance?
That's what I'm having trouble wrapping my head around. I get that they are supposed to locate the crank and prevent play. I know my clutch is fairly tough, but whatever destroyed my thrust bearing really screwed it up.
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Old 10-03-2016, 10:37 PM   #112
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Does your grandpa have any other free cars he is trying to get rid of?

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Old 10-03-2016, 10:46 PM   #113
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Does your grandpa have any other free cars he is trying to get rid of?

Best part is the window price was $4650
I think it needs a wheel bearing or something, has a pretty bad vibration above 45 mph.
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Old 12-20-2016, 08:34 AM   #114
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Haven't updated this thread in a while, me and my friend Nate figured out why my thrust bearing failed. Apparently you need to kill the clutch switch when you start the car or it will prematurely wear the thrust bearing out with heavier than stock clutch, because I bought the clutch second hand I didn't get/receive this info. I've got like 300-325 miles on the engine and its running gravy. I got flamed for my timing map but I was setting base timing the wrong way with my old school ms1 so it turns out I was more retarded than advanced so no hard done, I didn't even really flog on the car at all. No leaks or anything yet, my coolant reroute hasn't leaked at all so that's good and the car holds its fluid so it's already way better than it was before. I fixed all the jenky bullshit that was done to it too and it makes a decently reliable DD. I still need to take the car to get an alignment, fix my iacv, and upgrade to Hi-res code which has been the biggest headache because I need a windows 7 32 bit pc when all I have is a windows 10 64 bit and 64 bit windows 7 laptops. All for a quick little reflash. I also picked up a snug top for 450$ a few weeks ago, it has a cracked window so I was thinking of going with the TCM lexan replacement window, besides the window its in pretty good shape, I added a rollbar as well, hard dog hard bar with a racing beat cover. I also installed electronic det cans and raised the boost up to 10 psi and the car rips, I still haven't really gotten it to roast 1st but I think that will take a few more Kpa. So hope fully by spring time I can take the car out to autox and maybe hang out with leach and other MT.net members.
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Old 12-21-2016, 07:55 PM   #115
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Picked up a set of wide open's for an absolute steal. 66$ PER WHEEL, prime is a lifesaver, 114$ without it per wheel. Picked up a whole set for just 280$ and free shipping too. I'm thinking of craigslist-ing a set of 195/205-50-15 all seasons for the rest of the winter and then switching to a better compound tire.
Also this is a copy of my spark map, the car is amazeballs at 8-9 psi, I don't really want to jack it up too much without a tune, spools at like 3.5k too which seems a lot better than what I was getting before. It actually feels like it has horsepower at top too. I've just been driving around with VE al and det cans, the tune sounds solid, no "dropped pebbles" sound on the mic and afr's stay pinned between 11.5 and 12 throughout the whole pull. I'll snag a data log and post it up for opinions. I have the next week off from school, I'll see if I can get the iacv to kind of work. I've been idling at like 12 to 1 with no load and with the heater and headlights it hits mid 13.5.
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Old 12-22-2016, 01:35 AM   #116
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I hate you a little bit.
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Old 12-22-2016, 01:43 PM   #117
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You should be able to run about 28 degrees in the 101 kpa cells on pump 92-93 with a stock engine. And a little more beneath that row.
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Old 12-22-2016, 05:32 PM   #118
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You should be able to run about 28 degrees in the 101 kpa cells on pump 92-93 with a stock engine. And a little more beneath that row.
won't that be like a 10 degree drop into boost? most other maps that I've seen run around 20-24 degrees in the mid range
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Old 12-22-2016, 06:59 PM   #119
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Table should be on there, I think I was running around 28-27 degrees in the 55-75 area between 2900 and 5200, turned it down a bit to the 22-25 that should be there now. Also increased the in boost timing to around 24 degrees tapering off 14-16 when I max out at around 160 kpa.
Attached Files
File Type: table 22.table (2.7 KB, 26 views)
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Old 12-31-2016, 10:07 PM   #120
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turned boost up to 10.5, because I like to party




Just missing my MT.net stickers....
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