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Old 02-27-2012, 01:53 AM   #101
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Thanks bro.

Today I flashed the ECU, installed the boost controller, boost gauge and MTX-L wideband. I also redid all of the wiring. I made a removable gauge panel for the glovebox. Also is a clearer pic of the engine bay.
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:59 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99mx5 View Post
Thanks bro.

Today I flashed the ECU, installed the boost controller, boost gauge and MTX-L wideband. I also redid all of the wiring. I made a removable gauge panel for the glovebox. Also is a clearer pic of the engine bay.
i see some dust on that dash and in the glove box. better get on that, you have a reputation to uphold.
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Old 02-28-2012, 01:11 AM   #103
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LOL, At least the engine bay is clean.
I've been spending too much time under the car to clean it. The car is uncharacteristically dirty while I drive it around to tune it.

I took it around this evening to autotune it. Its running smoother as I go. It is currently limited to 10PSI with overboost protection with fuel cutoff. It pulls smoothly. I'm still autotuning idle and cruise cells. I have EGO and acceleration enrichment turned off.
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Old 02-29-2012, 02:41 AM   #104
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I have been having AFR fluctuations while autotuning for several days now with the autotune pulling fuel too much fuel and making it lean. Tonight I finally got to the root of the problem. The TPS was making "noise" and activating TPS-based enrichment. As soon as I changed the activation threshold out of the noise range, the AFRs stabilized and the idle was steady. I learned something new today, data logs are awesome!

Now to finally make a correct autotune.
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:20 PM   #105
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So far so good. The car idles well and accelerates well. My only issue is too much boost (for now). I decided to get the adjustable wastegate actuator from full race. I can change springs for more boost as needed.

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Old 03-05-2012, 04:44 AM   #106
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Great thread

99mx5: Is it possible to route 3.5” downpipe with that manifold? Abe is building same manifold to me and I’m wondering if I should go with 3” or 3.5”…
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:08 AM   #107
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Awesome stuff. You only need one blockoff plate for the EGR. Block off the 2 ports where the EGR valve bolts on. The other single port won't leak.

You're running too much boost because of the stock 'medium boost' wastegate actuator right? How much boost is it running on the stock wastegate actuator? I don't want to bolt mine on to find out that it makes too much boost for my stock 04 motor.

Muoto, if this is an EFR 6258, the outlet of the turbine housing is a 3" compact v-band. 3.5" would probably be overkill if you're planning on a 2560.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:22 AM   #108
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Quote:
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Muoto, if this is an EFR 6258, the outlet of the turbine housing is a 3" compact v-band. 3.5" would probably be overkill if you're planning on a 2560.
I was thinking to move EFR 6258 later on. I know the outlet is 3 so I have to expand in to 3.5 after the v-band flange
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:55 PM   #109
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Thanks for the comments!
I am currently in contact with Full race and Forge about the actuator size to check for fitment. I plan to get the actuator with the 5+ spring and the extra spring kit.

You are right Bryce. I already made both plates, so I just blocked both of the EGR ports.

I I have not gone beyond 10 PSI at this point. I have the MS set to cut fuel at 10 PSI. It hits it really quickly. Stock block fail.

Muoto, I don't think there is a real need to go to 3.5" It will only make exhaust routing more difficult.
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:39 PM   #110
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I made a mockup of the Forge actuator based on the external dimensions given to me by Forge so that I can verify fitment. LOL at the perfect bottle to test.
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:52 PM   #111
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Haha. Have you tried driving with the wastegate wired open?
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Old 03-05-2012, 10:00 PM   #112
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Nope, I haven't. I'm thinking it would kill the spool. The plan is to get the Forge with the 5+ PSI actuator spring and use the MBC to open it up around 9PSI or less if needed.
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:35 PM   #113
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Today I added the heater line shutoff valve. With it in the off position, Only cool coolant will go into the engine.
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:04 PM   #114
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Do you have an alternate path for coolant to flow when the thermostat is closed?

You should post a 4th gear spool log, like, now.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:23 PM   #115
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/\ +1
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:53 PM   #116
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I removed the little "flow stopper" on the thermostat and made the bypass hole bigger. It will allow coolant flow while the car warms up. I planned to close the heater flow circuit after the car is warmed up, but this will prevent any problems in case I leave it closed on a cold start.
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:47 AM   #117
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Forge wastegate actuator installed. when you buy it you have to cut more threads on the shaft because it is too long.
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:50 AM   #118
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check that actuator for leaks if you haven't already.
a guy on nasioc received a leaky one with his borg and it made his life hell
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:50 AM   #119
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some pics of the intercooler piping being welded and the intercooler mounted.
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Old 03-13-2012, 01:53 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
check that actuator for leaks if you haven't already.
a guy on nasioc received a leaky one with his borg and it made his life hell
Thanks for the tip. So far, all is well. It was opened to install a new spring and the seals were greased.
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