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Old 04-17-2012, 12:57 PM   #221
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Yup, its on the list. The turbo and manifold are easy to install as one piece in the engine bay. It's easier to remove the manifold from the engine than to remove the turbo from the manifold. The downpipe is also easy to connect to the turbo and it is just tied in place in the engine bay.
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Old 04-17-2012, 01:17 PM   #222
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Also I want your old broke and bent Rods.
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:01 AM   #223
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I just went out to break the engine in. I used the FM break-in method. The engine runs smooth and feels great. I disconnected the coils and cranked the engine until I got oil pressure before starting it. So far, so good. I haven't found leaks of any kind.
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Old 04-18-2012, 07:35 AM   #224
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Nice. I prefer to pull the main relay instead, as this prevents any fuel being injected and then washing the oil on the cylinder walls, as it isn't getting burned.
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:08 AM   #225
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No go run it hard, under 5000rpm.
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:49 AM   #226
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pull major vacuum.
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Old 04-18-2012, 01:08 PM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99mx5 View Post
I just went out to break the engine in. I used the FM break-in method. The engine runs smooth and feels great. I disconnected the coils and cranked the engine until I got oil pressure before starting it. So far, so good. I haven't found leaks of any kind.

I don't like you and I'll tell you why.

Because your doing what I'm supposed to be doing. I've had my car down for many many months sitting on it. Only last night did I start pulling wires and rad parts in prep to do what you've just done in a few weeks. I could have been driving my car by now but nooo, I had to keep putting it off!

Thanks for posting your progress it has been helpful in seeing the speed and ease of pulling a motor, prepping and putting back in. All the thread updates kept nagging at me to get started.
Hopefully I can get with the program and have my done shortly here. I'm going to document it as well.

I do appreciate you....I think it is just jealosy.....

Keep us posted the rest of the way!
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Old 04-18-2012, 01:22 PM   #228
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Thanks for the comments. The total downtime from popped motor to built engine and car running again was 23 days. I have learned many things along the way.

The biggest thing I learned was to be organized and finish each step as you go and double check before moving on to the next step. This avoids missing something that you have to go back by undoing things to get to it again. I put all nuts and bolts in baggies and labelled them. I also kept related parts together when I stored them.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:46 PM   #229
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Tomorrow I have a dyno session scheduled. I'll post pics and video.
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:47 PM   #230
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dont pull a Fael.

oh crap, that needs to be a new a smilie. onto the search for the perfect one.
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:42 PM   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99mx5 View Post
Tomorrow I have a dyno session scheduled. I'll post pics and video.
Interested to see results!
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:57 PM   #232
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We want logs and graphs for 6psi, 10psi, 12psi, 15psi, 18psi, and 25psi.
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:14 PM   #233
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in for results!!!!
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:40 PM   #234
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Speaking of PSI levels, how high is safe?
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:41 PM   #235
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Quote:
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Speaking of PSI levels, how high is safe?
All of it.
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Old 04-24-2012, 04:53 PM   #236
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250kpa, because that is all your megasquirt can read.
your atmospheric pressure @ 4000ft is 87.5kpa.

so 250-87.5 = 162.5kpa = 23.5psi is all you can run.
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:34 AM   #237
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numbers?!?
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:42 AM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
numbers?!?
Give him a few hours to get those. I think he is 2-3 hours behind the east coast.
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:52 AM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Give him a few hours to get those. I think he is 2-3 hours behind the east coast.
I'm getting blue ***** here
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Old 04-25-2012, 12:07 PM   #240
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As I type this it's 10:07AM, you guys got a while.....

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