deezums

iTrader: (3)

So I finally got around to reinstalling AC, and I think I might have fucked myself. I have all the hardlines and condenser reinstalled, and was just finishing with the compressor.

The long 12mm bolt on the front of the AC bracket is kinda important, right? I had used an old socket as a wide spacer to reuse the stock bolt when I removed the compressor, now I just snapped half the bolt off deep in the block. I guess my socket spacer was wider, and the threads I wasn't using were a little dirty...

Will it just make a mess if I omit that bolt, or will it blow up my oil pump?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Pretty sure its just a mess. ezout?

deezums

iTrader: (3)

If it weren't like an inch deep past what I assume is oil pump I might try.

LKQ right down the street from me has a 94 1.8 with 104K for $750, guy says I can have everything from the throttle body to the oil pan. I think I might just do that instead. If the oil pump explodes, oh well. The undertray ought to catch the majority of the mess.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

deezums going 1.8? aidan going 1.8 with 6758?

WHAT IS THE WORLD COMING TO!!????!!111ONEONEONEeleven

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

You won't blow up the oil pump. How much do you care about the engine? A quick and easy fix would be to pull the AC bracket. Fill the hole with jbweld and the probably slather it around the oil pump and block in that area. Taking the 1.6 apart later will be a major bitch, but if you don't care what happens to the 1.6 when you one day pull it, then my method should work.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I've been rereading soviets build thread. Mother of god. As soon as he got the EFR **** just spirals out of control. I need some self control for a couple more years till we can buy a house. Then I can go wild.

Deezums will definitely beat me to 1.8. I keep thinking about doing a rods only 1.8 build but then I realize I don't want to have to do it twice. Time will tell.

I have a spare 1.8 NA sitting in my driveway. So as soon as the turbo gets here I will be starting a manifold+downpipe. Purely because I am itching to fabricate.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I found a video Brain posted a while back, dyno run with the thing just puking at high RPMs. Not much seems to come from the hole, but it sprays like a bitch between the pump and block.



I'm thinking I'll just put it back together for now and drive with no boost for a while, stay off the highway and try and stay under 65. I don't care about this engine at all, the crank seal already leaks a bit as is. It's a SNC by crank pulley slots, so I really don't want to deal with going into that. When I pull it, I might try and sell the head or something on CL. Unload the burittoburitto manifold and reap sweet capital gains. Everything else probably goes to the bin. I just don't want to be throwing a quart of oil on the road every trip though, so if it's too bad I'll just have to get my truck going.

I still need some other junk too, a 1.8 alt, gonna need to make a reroute spacer, egr plate, I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things.

All I knows for sure is I don't want to spend squat on the 1.6 any more, lame little leaky mess of a nugget.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

You should rock my dirt cheap reroute adapter. Jackson racing spacer+lathe+drill press.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I've got a chunk of scrap I've been saving, It'll be a simple one tool program to make one of those spacers. I'll just fix it to the stock with tabs on the outer profile, punch it out and belt sand it smooth. Should be quick and easy.

I've got so much cleaning to do if I'm gonna JBweld this thing closed, plus the bumper is still on the floor.

I'm gonna go finish jerry-rigging this junk one last time

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Why not just rtv?

deezums

iTrader: (3)

I have JB weld, don't think I have RTV that hasn't popped off in the tube. If I did I might, I just need it to not leak for a few weeks.

Besides, SNC 1.6. I'm not gonna take anyone's money for this junk, excluding the scrapman.

wackbards

iTrader: (2)

I did a similar thing breaking off a bolt way down in the block. I ended up drilling out the remaining part of the bolt to make a drill bushing out of it. I guess with such a small diameter bolt, the trick would be getting the easy out down in there far enough after you've drilled it out.

I ran a 1.6 N/A for about a year without that bolt. It got slimy, but it wasn't a disaster.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Fixed a long standing problem I've had, erratic CLT sensor readings.

I'm used to seeing junk like this. Don't mind what's happening in this log, I made it go bonkers on purpose here...



Turns out the miata has whack wiring, who knew? The signal ground loop is tied to the block by the CAS. Cutting that stupid wire makes my logs look like this.



That's 100% lag factor on everything on there, should be no smoothing at all. TPS is like a baby's ***

Here's the offending wire, it's black and green striped and it's hanging around a bunch of pure black ground wires on some bracketry near the CAS...

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

Interesting find

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Did JB Weld fix the bolt you broke?

I am working on finding a box big enough to ship out your 1.8 ****.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, it doesn't leak all that much. I made a real mess of it, soaked it in JB weld.



Good deal on the 1.8 stuff!

x_25

Where does one get one of those spacers. They seem to be NLA?

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Very interesting find. I wonder why that ground wire causes so much trouble. Any ideas?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Because its a sensor ground connected to a power ground.

Power grounds have lots of noise.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

That's useful to know, thanks. I wonder if the 1.8 has a similar arrangement. I see a lot of dramatic stairstepped readings on certain sensors like Deezums had in his first log.