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Table 1 is what I'm using now, table 2 is old 91 octane stuff and should mostly be basemap, or a little retarded from there. My car's never been to a dyno, running on "this shouldn't break ****, definitely probably not break things, maybe." I descaled that map because I don't need more kpas, that will vent the block for sure.
It's interesting because my table falls almost directly in-between those two maps. I am lucky and have easy access to 93 and 100 octane fuels. I may just blend them a bit. I plan to run E85 by next season, going to follow your thread and see how it goes. Not many still on the 1.6 train.
My RPM correction tables are not nearly as sophisticated as DNMakinson's are, just a slight dip at cranking speeds to ease the transition from crank to run (I'll probably plagiarize his somewhat to make my starts better);
Here's a 20*F start from two days ago. The cranking is a bit longer than I'd like but it starts right up, doesn't dip too much after starting and is passibly smooth. I'd like it to not be so rich after starting but I'll wait until the mornings aren't as damned cold to work on that.
No, but look at the main curves, the last two, almost all of the action occurs by 100-105 kPa. Above that, slope is very small.
Those numbers you use in boost don't look far off from what I had borrowed from y8's and I had EAE pulling somewhere between 1 and 4 percent in boost, nowhere near as bad as decel fuel cut and it's manageable, but it still happens.
I do need to work on EBS more, try and make it a little smoother still. Maybe it's no big deal.
Thanks for the contribution rwyatt365! I also run MS2, just DIYPNP.
You should try EAE if you haven't yet, it's pretty tolerable to being off besides the starting thing. Letting it cut fuel ASAP after liftoff seems to make shifting all the more better too, what I was after with decel fuel but much smoother for sure.
Plus I have to be wasting less gas not pegging 11-12 between shifts and stuff.
Plus I have to be wasting less gas not pegging 11-12 between shifts and stuff.
I don't buy it. Thats a miniscule amount of gas. I probably drank more gas the last time i was siphoning than you waste in a month if you were at 11-12 instead of 14.7 during shifts.
Well, when I say between shifts I mean on throttle blips when I grab lower gear. I overrun to every stoplight and stop because I love shifting this car. Prior I would be into AE and that were wasting massive fuel.
So I want to install this FPR, but I don't think I want to leave the stock one installed. I can just run an adapter like this and install the FPR in the new return line, right?
If this works and I can still reasonably idle at 70 psi base pressure, I think I'll splurge on a nice FPR. I don't want it giving up when I need it to not, that would be bad.
If I can't, well, I'll probably return to stock till I can afford better injectors.
The FPR is just a diaphragm piston that lets pressure bleed past, like a wastegate. A restriction like you say.
The stock one quits being a restriction around 43 psi, give or take manifold pressure. The AFPR has adjustable diaphragm, I set it at 70 PSI.
So the stock one tries to let fuel return to the tank at 43 PSI, that fuel goes to AFPR which does not open till 70 PSI. The stock regulator is wide open and it's diaphragm is seeing fuel pressure in excess of what it's designed for.
Are you sure that's not how it works? This isn't a rising rate fuel regulator, is it? That's not what I want. I want 70 PSI base 1:1 with manifold pressure
Hell, I don't even care if it is 1:1 with manifold pressure, just as long as it's consistent in whatever it does.
Just to test my understanding, wouldn't the regulator be flowing more at idle since there's less fuel flowing into the engine? Could you hurt the regulator if you put a high flow, high pressure pump on it? (maybe this would just cause the rail to overpressure)
This is an awesome build thread. Looks like you've got to the fun part
Yes, overloading the stock FPR is meantioned in threads across the forum, old aidz threads. It will make the car run rich because the stock FPR can't bleed down to idle PSI fast enough.
And if it goes real bad the diaphragm breaks and pumps fuel to my boost gauge and megasquirt. I want to avoid that.
But if the quickest pulsewidth I can hit is still low enough to idle 14.7 or so, I don't see any problem running higher base pressure to compensate. Wonder how bad extra pressure increases deadtime, what I'm reading says it increases which might be a problem...
I don't want a rising rate regulator, so I'll get bigger injectors if this doesn't work.
Stock already is somewhat of a rising rate. The issues with big pumps is they overwhelm the stock for and you end up with inconsistent pressure. But when you put an FPR behind the stock one suddenly there is no pressure differential across the stock fpr. 70 psi behind it, 70 in front of it. So your diaphragm is seeing less. I've never heard of a stock for diaphram breaking, and almost everyone runs an aftermarket FPR behind the stock one. I know because finding info about that adapter is a ******* pain in the ***.
TL;DR;
Stock for doesn't restrict pressure anymore because there is no pressure differential across it anymore. "Overwhelming" the stock fpr is when youhave too big of a pump and it can't consistently hold pressure.
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