When you rode with Martin what was he driving?
<br />
<br />You'll never get good lap times if you can't depend on your brakes. I never felt fully confident in my brakes before so I was always braking early. I ran a 1:33.8 last year but uh... That was at 300 whp

 

Martin was driving a stock 1.8 with MCS and old RS3s.
<br />I'm getting terminal under steer.
<br />I have done a 1:34.5 or so.

 

Which pads were you using?

 

Do you have the left front brake line wrapped or shielded below the license tags or is it exposed to direct heat from the turbine housing?

 

DTC-60 front cobalt rear. Its a broke dick setup that will hopefully change over the winter.
<br />It is not shielded, good thinking.
<br />I'm thinking a fluid flush (its been a year, and a lot of street miles), stainless lines, and shielding that line. Well see how that goes.
<br />Next track day is in early September. Either another PIR day, or a day at The Ridge.
<br />Opinions on either?

 

If you haven't done the Ridge, get out there.

I was running 11" DTC-60s, and sport sized cobalts. Get bigger brakes. At least 1.8. Just stay away from sport fronts.

 

Splitting a rubber fuel hose lengthwise and putting over the steel brake lines works very well for insulation. Aluminum foil tape around that will reflect even more heat away. The fuel hose also works well over speedo and throttle cables for protection. And being black, it isn't an eyesore. The hot parts are generating a lot of radiant heat so anything in direct line of sight of exhaust components is at risk, just like the difference between being in the sun versus the shade.

Are your transmission and differential protected from the direct heat of the exhaust as well? It isn't discussed much here but my diff temp dropped over 60 degrees when I shielded it from the pipe. Even the stock exhaust is shielded from the diff and trans. You are making even more power and heat than stock now, aren't you? lol.

 

Six you read my mind. I was thinking fuel line with some reflective heat shielding material.
<br />I need to do more shielding. I'm making about 40-50hp more than stock.
<br />Curly, I have 1.8 fronts. I think my problem is somewhere in the fluid. Also maybe some proportioning. I was getting some lockup even when the feel went to ****.
<br />Ridge is $45 more but probably worth it.

 

<p>Another issue that is more technique related is as I was starting to brake later and harder I had a couple times where I pushed the brake so hard that I couldn't get my foot over to roll the throttle for the downshift. And I wasn't able to lift off the brake because I needed to stop lol.</p><p>Suggestions?</p>

 

Some food for though in regards to water content of brake fluid and boiling point over time.
Edit: I know it is showing DOT3, but the same principle applies to other hygroscopic fluids as well.

 

<p></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Greta (Mitch's car) or Ryan's car?</p>

 

<p>Neither. Its an AR car. Stock everything except MCS and RS3's. Street alignment with very little camber.</p><p>Thanks stoves, I should flush everything.</p><p>I think an alignment and ride height adjustment is needed. AR is really expensive but I think it might be worth it. I'll see what some of my local shops charge, AR is also pretty far out of my way.</p>

 

Factory peddles? I have heard mention of others being better for heel-toe shifting. Haven't gotten any for myself yet, though.

 

<p>I have a big gas pedal, not sure which brand anymore.</p>

 

Higher temp fluids get water contaminated even faster than DOT3. You need to be flushing often -- at least every time you change pads.

Leaking master means heat issues, exactly like Six said.

 

<p>I swap pads for every track day. I assume you mean every time the pads run out? What is the best procedure for a full flush. Let it all drain out and then bleed until the air is gone?</p><p>I have a heat shield between the turbo and brake master. And the master has some heat wrap on it.</p>

 

<p>For brake fluid swaps I've always just bled each caliper til the fluid comes out clean. On the first one, go til the master is almost empty before adding new fluid.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Should take like 15 minutes.</p>

 

<p>Added to the list.</p>

 

Yes, when you go through a set of pads. I use one of those Harbor Freight vacuum bleeders/flushers and pretty much run a couple of small bottles through the system.

I saw Emilio writing about some cool little gravity flushers somewhere. He flushes for every track weekend. Basically opens it up and lets it drip while doing other tasks -- making sure the master never empties to let air in.

The heated fluid at the line Six mentioned will transfer heat into your master. Or maybe you just have an old master?

 

<p>What about shelf life of brake life. The ATE stuff in the metal can with the airtight lid?</p>