The rear ones are probably easier -- mill the spindle flat, drill/tap a couple holes in it, then play with spacers until you get the gap right. The front requires a fairly precisely located hole through the spindle. It's probably trivial for a qualified machinist, but...

Doing the ABS swap was a lot of work, but none of it was hard. Basically you need:

- sensors
- front hubs with rings (not all non-ABS hubs are machined for them)
- rear axles with rings (again, not all of the non-ABS ones are machined)
- somewhere to mount the sensors (spindles)
- hydraulic unit (NB2 is the best one to get here)
- new hard lines for everything except the rear crossover
- a bunch of wiring.

The upper A-arms are different, but only because they have mounting brackets for the sensor wires. Zip ties are good enough here.

More details (although not as many pictures as I'd like) in my old build thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...into-nb-73579/

--Ian

 

O reiley has rebuilt abs axles for like 60 each.
<br />I'm not 100% sure about the rarity, maybe I haven't searched hard enough.

 

Somehow I have two piece ABS axles, I have a very cheap pocket scope and could potentially figure the spacing, but I honestly have no idea how to use the thing. Should probably do something about that.

Thanks for the link Ian, I'll take a look!

 

I have a real scope and a front spindle setup. I just don't know what the abs computer requires. I'm also using abs sensor for traction control.

 

I think you are just looking for the largest square wave you can get without anything rubbing.

 

It's a VR sensor. So its a sine wave.

 

My bad. I think you are looking for the largest sine wave you can get.

 

But what's the minimum it can take. That's important.

 

Good luck finding that info. Whats the typical P-P value of a VR sensor? 100mV?

 

I thought it was more like 1V. I can test it today though.

 

Relevant
https://books.google.com/books?id=DR...values&f=false

 

Still playing with ride height. Shooting or 12f, 12.5r. Got it reasonably close, but need to drive around a bit and make sure it settled. This is quite a bit higher than when I was aligned so I will have lost some camber. Going to go get it realigned to 2.0*f, and 1.7*r. 0 toe all around.

 

I used codrus's guide for swapping in ABS into my car. As he said, none of it is hard, it just takes a lot of time. It also ends up being pretty expensive because there are so many parts that are needed.

 

You don't need abs, just learn to drive. Pedal modulation of a light switch here...
Go higher with your ride heighy. 12.25 front 12.5 rear. Dial in max camber all around. Zero toe front. +.05 degree toe rear

 

I think that's right where I ended up. If it doesn't settle I should be around there.
<br />
<br />As of now I do too many street miles to max out camber. If another daily comes into my life I will adjust accordingly.

 

I think you actually flat spotted the tire on the last turn before the second long straight away. I remember you locked them up pretty good on one pass.

 

Was it when we were behind that BMW that slammed on its brakes in front of me? I think it was my idiocy at bleeding just one front brake.

 

Actually yes, I think it was. I remember thinking "Weeeeee That'sgoingtoleaveaflatspot Weeeeee."

 

I think the wees were out loud.

 

Interspersed with bouts of maniacal laughter no doubt. Did you happen to get that run on video?