Aidan's loose oily bunghole actually runs a track lap
#3761
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Yeah, I can make some but I'd have to figure out how to take the collet nose off this lathe and attach the drawbar chuck mess. I don't think the collet chuck has been off since the 80's, lol. I'd rather avoid it if I can, not even my machine.
The 54.1 to 64.1 hub rings I ordered don't fit.
After digging through rust, I found a stepped hub bore. The rotor uses a larger than 54.1mm bore, not sure what just yet.
Do your wheels use a 73mm bore too?
I too am considering running as is. All the track time I see I'm sure it'll be fine lol
The 54.1 to 64.1 hub rings I ordered don't fit.
After digging through rust, I found a stepped hub bore. The rotor uses a larger than 54.1mm bore, not sure what just yet.
Do your wheels use a 73mm bore too?
I too am considering running as is. All the track time I see I'm sure it'll be fine lol
#3763
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Sorry tommy i must have the dumbs.
Are you trying to do a stepped ring that locates both the wheel and the rotor in one peice?
How is the rotor going to hold it on the hub snout? using the generous chamfer on the backside of the "hat" part of the rotor, and then maching a lip onto the ring like some already do?? that would work, except if the answer to the above is yes, it would be impossible to install since youd be trying to slide that lip through the bore that retains it.
Are you trying to do a stepped ring that locates both the wheel and the rotor in one peice?
How is the rotor going to hold it on the hub snout? using the generous chamfer on the backside of the "hat" part of the rotor, and then maching a lip onto the ring like some already do?? that would work, except if the answer to the above is yes, it would be impossible to install since youd be trying to slide that lip through the bore that retains it.
#3764
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In any case, i have no problem trading rings for brackets, sounds like a deal.
make me a drawing so i can see what we are talking about, ill need one anyway when i go machine stuff.
make me a drawing so i can see what we are talking about, ill need one anyway when i go machine stuff.
#3765
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<p>IM BACK BITCHES.</p><p>I think my rings will fit, @relte they fit right? When I tried to put them in the mini rotor it was a very tight fit, but I assumed when I crank the rotor down it will press fit in.</p><p>If you have that much clearance then I should have tons.</p><p>PUT THEM ON THE CNC. NAOOOO</p><p>9405509699938766818006</p><p>My hawks should be in monday. how did the rears fit? SHould I order sport rear rotors? or just stock 1.8?</p>
#3766
Yeah, can't use a chamfer to hold the thing on since the mini bore is smaller than 73mm...
Damn. Le dumb. I guess a circlip or something would fit as my wheel bore has a slight chamfer, but that's getting too complicated for what it is.
You should be able to make a double stepped ring, right? The step depth isn't all that critical, so long as it's on the right side of the tolerances. I guess nothing would hold it on, but it would still replace two rings for one.
I measured out the rotor hub bore at 55mm, then I forgot to measure the depth before I put it all back together, lol
Anyway, more pictures.
Aidan, what's the ID of your rings measure compared to the above?
I haven't tried the rears yet, that's next.
Damn. Le dumb. I guess a circlip or something would fit as my wheel bore has a slight chamfer, but that's getting too complicated for what it is.
You should be able to make a double stepped ring, right? The step depth isn't all that critical, so long as it's on the right side of the tolerances. I guess nothing would hold it on, but it would still replace two rings for one.
I measured out the rotor hub bore at 55mm, then I forgot to measure the depth before I put it all back together, lol
Anyway, more pictures.
Aidan, what's the ID of your rings measure compared to the above?
I haven't tried the rears yet, that's next.
#3768
Whodidwhat?
With no hubcentric ring the rotor wants to fall off dragging the caliper and my plastic bracket with it. I don't have enough hands for this. My lugnuts not deep enough.
Anyway, the pad/caliper clearance picture there is with me holding the caliper flat against the bracket like it would be when bolted up square.
The slop comes from .375 bolts in 10mm hole = .393mm. Two sets of bolts = .036 of slop. If you sat and fudged it around you could likely get the caliper out a bit further or inset a tiny bit more.
With no hubcentric ring the rotor wants to fall off dragging the caliper and my plastic bracket with it. I don't have enough hands for this. My lugnuts not deep enough.
Anyway, the pad/caliper clearance picture there is with me holding the caliper flat against the bracket like it would be when bolted up square.
The slop comes from .375 bolts in 10mm hole = .393mm. Two sets of bolts = .036 of slop. If you sat and fudged it around you could likely get the caliper out a bit further or inset a tiny bit more.
#3770
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I can make a double step, but if I have to unchuck and flip and rechuck, concentricity goes out the window, and parallelism to a degree. not a good idea.
draw me a pic deezums, and we can go from there.
But, I still dont understand why you are concerned about the wheels when they are lug centric?
For mine, Im just going to make a simple ring with a small lip on the backside so the rotor holds it in place. easy, simple and it will work great.
draw me a pic deezums, and we can go from there.
But, I still dont understand why you are concerned about the wheels when they are lug centric?
For mine, Im just going to make a simple ring with a small lip on the backside so the rotor holds it in place. easy, simple and it will work great.
#3772
Those look good Aidan, 55mm inner bore, 64.1mm outer bore. Aluminum blocks are here, too.
Wheels are lugcentric, doesn't mean I don't want them starting off as close as possible. OEM did it for a reason, I'd like to keep the feature. It makes installing wheels 100% success rate, instead of having to go back and wiggle the bitch to center it.
Plus, I want aluminum ones now.
If it's too tedious I'll just buy some 1/2" plate and mill some rings from flat stock.
Wheels are lugcentric, doesn't mean I don't want them starting off as close as possible. OEM did it for a reason, I'd like to keep the feature. It makes installing wheels 100% success rate, instead of having to go back and wiggle the bitch to center it.
Plus, I want aluminum ones now.
If it's too tedious I'll just buy some 1/2" plate and mill some rings from flat stock.
#3774
Looks like you have more than enough clearance already so the little bit extra clearance will be nice, but is not a must have in order for these brackets to fit your wheels.
Since my original brackets I moved the pads in a little so that they just get to the edge of the chamfer. EO2K might be able to post some pictures of his installed setup, I am pretty sure his had the pad sit on the edge of the chamfer like the S10 pic above.
#3776
<p>IM BACK BITCHES.</p><p>I think my rings will fit, @relte they fit right? When I tried to put them in the mini rotor it was a very tight fit, but I assumed when I crank the rotor down it will press fit in.
You could use the same process to keep your stepped rings from falling out. I made similar stepped centering rings for my brother's FFR cobra and it worked great to center the rotor and wheels.
#3778
For now I had Aiden order one of these off ebay since he's up my butt to get it done. I'm not sure when I'll be back to KC when the weather will be right for me to bring back a stick of aluminum.
2 Pieces 1" x 2 1 2" Aluminum 6061 Flat Bar 8" Long T6511 Solid Plate Mill Stock | eBay
Now that I don't have spacers I was going to try and talk you into turning me some, trade?
2 Pieces 1" x 2 1 2" Aluminum 6061 Flat Bar 8" Long T6511 Solid Plate Mill Stock | eBay
Now that I don't have spacers I was going to try and talk you into turning me some, trade?
6061 T6 Aluminum Flat Bar 1" x 2 1 2" x 48" Long 1" x 2 5" 6061 Flat Bar | eBay
That looks real good. That is more than enough clearance, even if you move the caliper out you should still have >0.200" clearance to the wheel.