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I'm going to diy it. I think my way will work better anyways.

 

Control 3/4 of the outside of the exhaust and the trans and the operator will be protected from heat. Leave the bottom open for pretty grass fires.

 

Ordered hose clamps on amazon. Will roll some sheet metal tomorrow.

 

**** it, this is a ramble thread.

Have we schedule dyno time at KO Sunday? I might try to throw my newly megasquirted NB on there for kicks too. Gotta warm up my VVT tuning skills before tackling Ed's car.

And can I get a copy of the tune to browse through? I've seen a lot of fucked up cold advance and voltage comp settings recently.

 

I will send a copy after I tinker with idle and other stuff tonight.

 

And Ed said that it is scheduled

 

HD racing didn't have deep enough c-channel. I need to find a metal supplier nearby.

Eds car wouldn't start last night. First out of gas, second we think the plugs were dead.

 

Ok tuning question. Paging @18psi.
My idle used to be awesome. Then randomly it stopped catching on occasion. When it catches it it does fine, but sometimes it just drops straight to 0 and dies. What do you normally set for idle activation?

 

closed loop idle activation delay
also dashpot adder
also make sure the vacuum and tps settings are within range
lastly, are you using "use last value" or "use initial table"
every once in a blue moon I have the same issue, and I believe that last part is key to resolving it

 

I left my computer at home. I'll get my toon soon once my gf wakes up.

I'm using initial table. I was using CLT, just switched it to MAT to see if it would help. Still need to tune it.

How do you find the vacuum and tps settings?

I feel spoiled, when I first installed the megasquirt for some reason all the default settings just "worked" and I didn't have issues until recently. Not quite sure what is up.

I have the initial value table set uber high everywhere. For testing. So when it catches, it idles at like 2k rpm. But other times it drops straight down and almost dies. Mostly happens when going from a cruise or deceleration and then just pushing in the clutch.

 

Yep, I know what you're talking about. Had it happen tons of times. I still can't quite put my finger on what SPECIFIC setting is to blame for it. When uber hot it tends to get stuck high, and when uber cold or warming up it will tend to die every now and then.

Raising PID delay seems to cure most of it, but not all of it. Every once in a blue moon it still rears it's ugly head.

 

I don't care much about idling too high. I care about the dying. It just came out of the blue one day.

 

How do you tune your MAT initial value table?

Here are my current idle settings. I think Decel load should be higher. Some of the others I'm not sure.

 

by looking at the valve duty at different temp and load ranges and inputting those into the map? lol
also your pid disable rpmdot seems low

 

No i mean, technique for getting different MAT. Or do you just do it as you go around and see differnet intake temps.
For CLT its easy, just set the fans to come on at different temps, or catch it in warmup. MAT is a bit harder.
What should it be set to?

 

pid disable rpmdot should be low, it will kick out of closed loop and back to pseudo-open loop initial value table if the idle runs away or starts oscillating really bad. Mine is set at 200, or whatever the lowest value it will take is.

It is also possible for closed loop to enter before you actually come to a complete stop, if it does that whatever data you put in the initial table will be useless because closed loop will think you are way high on RPMs because you are still in overrun. When you actually get back to idle speeds or parameters the idle DC is already too low for it to recover.

Your max decel load should be slightly higher map than you hit on overrun, mine is 18. 1% TPS, because I like to be able to kick it out of closed loop without revving like a ricer.

That seems to be what works best for me right now.

 

Maybe I should try reading the instructions more.

 

I know that Rev has a way to disengage idle using the clutch switch. Wonder if thats possible in standard MS3 firmware.

 

I feel like we're understanding PID rpmdot disable number way differently.
I'll try it low like you and see what happens.

decel load I usually have at 25-28

Does your car ever behave like aidans with the settings you're using?
I mean the occasional stall, or high idle?

 

No, I've managed to dial it in pretty good. The only time I stall is on a cold start, I don't think I quite have my ASE taper long enough or something, I can back out of my driveway, then immediately stall first no matter what I do. Runs fine when I start it again, then runs great.

Oscillations, that's another matter. I can hold 800-1000 all day long, but staying steady inside that window is where I struggle most.

There's a PID lockout switch in MS2, but I don't know what pin it listens to. MS2 don't have enough i/o as is, so I never looked into it harder.



Oh yeah, never closing the valve is good for me too. If I left that on occasionally it would not reopen the valve and stall at low rpm. It's tricky though, because if you set the table values too high you won't be able to enter overrun on vacuum.