Good enough.

Is this a known problem with the EFR turbine housing that I need to account for? Or are you just looking for **** to do?

 

I'm not sure, I know the IRL turbo I got had safety wire bolts.

 

Afaik there are no reported failures. But like leafy said the irl turbos do come safety wired. So someone thought it was a good deal.

 

That might just be IRL guys being neurotic.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if it's 100% not needed. But safety wire is cheap, the bolts were like $5 and I learned a new skill. Win win

 

Everything on a racecar needs positive locking. Whether that's a nylock, loctite, NAS nut (crimp locking), or safety wire. Nylock and loctite won't handle heat, and NAS nut doesn't apply here. Safety wire is the only solution. It's a good idea for a bolt that sees extreme temperature (thread stretch changes as temperature changes) and is hanging off of a vibrating engine.

 

Finished lock wiring both sides. Loctited everything else on the turbo. Should be good to go.



Kept working on the fuel rail. I have to get the rail so damn hot to keep from blowing out the tabs that I can only do like one tab an hour, then wait for the thing to cool. I'm curious if this will work or not, definitely going to do some sort of smoke test to see if the injectors all seal to the manifold, won't be surprised if they dont. Oh well, materials were cheap.

 

that don't look like it will hold up to hard use (the tab)

 

It's 1/8th inch aluminum. Welded on 3 sides. It's surprisingly solid. Can't bend it at all.

 

That safety wiring is good enough. If the wire isn't so loose that it'll just flop over the bolt without help then you're good to go.

But you also had the wires turning the correct way so they're turning towards the parts. Makes the end loop much less likely to want to flop over.

For a tighter loop closer to the bolt, twist the wire and then do one or two twists like you're trying to scrape the inside of a bowl while holding tension. Then you'll twist it right up to the head of the bolt and get nice snug fit.

If a bolt is drilled through instead of just the corners then you can do one wire through 3 or more bolts and make the difficult to reach one a center bolt so you are kind of just running through it and don't have to get the pliers in there to get started.

I do this a lot at work and I actually enjoy it so I figured I'd throw in some tips in case you have to do this again later

 

Thanks for the tips!

 

Expensive but cool.

 

Agreed, and a fatigue failure on those tabs could cause the injectors to leak fuel, which is very bad. The rest of the rail looks ok but those tabs are scary IMO.

I would make those tabs 5/16" thick or more, and brace them too. Absolute overkill so they never fatigue fail.

Actually, I modified a stock steel fuel rail to avoid fatigue related failures.

 

Can pretty easily do bracing. But this thing doesnt move even if i try and bend it. A failure would more likely cause a boost leak than anything. I'm not sure if youve tried to pull injectors from a rail without removing the rail, but its not easy.

 

How would a tab on a fuel rail see fatigue failure? What sort of movement are you expecting.

 

Have you seen Abe's FM2 aux-fuel-rail-tab-breaking-fuel-leaking saga?

--Ian

 

The engine vibrates, bending the tab thousands of times/min until it cracks. The thicker it is, the longer it can endure this before it cracks.

 

I have. His was hanging off the side of the manifold though.

I have some other ideas for mounting tabs. We will see.

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/prefabbed...3/#post1170812

Not one comment on how close his fuel rail was to his strut bar? Stock engine mounts allow enough movement to knock that thing right off.

 

Or the marks where the strut bar was making contact with the fuel rail?