Somebody talk me out of buying ebay rods and running e85. With a cheap 19t conversion I could be over 300 I bet.

Would be a good experience, and teach me how to build an engine. And I could probably sell the whole package at a good price.

 

 

Touché

 

Your turbo was toast. 1 psi gave us 1 hp. You'll also start running into other restrictions above your current power levels. Injectors, exhaust, head flow, etc. It'll all be a expensive purchase. Believe me, be satisfied with 222hp.

Speaking of injectors, aren't they 425 RX8s? If so they're at 112% DC with 222hp.

 

 

They're known to work fine beyond their 425 rating. And we weren't running lean, so I wasn't worried.

 

Never having tuned an ECU, and only having encountered the term "duty cycle" in my electrical engineering class in college, I'm gonna assume its used a little differently here.
Typically:


but I assume in the software here you are just increasing some value?

 

Nope I'm on gt500 injectors, so a bit more room. Also there is a really simple compressor wheel upgrade that would give me more room in that area.

Just dreams right now.

 

I guess rods would fit a 1.8, but I'd much rather just 1.8 than spend anything cracking a 1.6 open.

Don't think your GT500 injectors are good for 300 on corn, either. If anything they are about matched for stock rods...

Oh, would you mind sharing your tables at all?

 

From the last log I'm at 75% duty cycle. I would have to do more reading about the over 100%.

 

If I did a 1.8 build I would want forged everything, VVT, etc etc. Thats a big purchase. Rods aren't and would be another fun project.

Curly do you mind?

(He did most of the tuning)

 

Megasquirt Support Forum (MSEXTRA) ? Injector Duty Cycle (View topic)

From that the duty cycle is calculated from the pulse width and the time that it takes for a complete rotation. So anything over 100% is just open all the time.

 

I understand making a project for having a project, I just figure I'd rather put all that time and money in a 1.8 block.

I haven't read up on VVT too hard, can't you just swap heads or is the block that much different? Figure it's just oil restrictions and stuff, right? Why not just save a few more months and get rods and pistons, then go through the head later.

 

I'm pretty happy where its at power wise. 300 was a bit of a joke. But e85 and the safety of rods would be nice. People always say never dump money into a 1.6 but what money am I actually wasting on a 1.6. I figure if I'm using stock pistons I won't need any block work done. So just oil pan gaskets (which I should have done in the first place), head gasket, surface head. Otherwise everything else could go in a 1.8. (ARP head studs, mains?, rods).

 

If someone handed me a 1.8 for $100 I wouldn't consider this, but I've never had an easy time finding cheap blocks.

 

Yeah, I haven't found a cheap one locally yet either. As soon as I do I'll be scooping it up though.

I don't want to pay to have a 1.6 head machined, or for a 1.6 head gasket. My plan is to push harder on the stock rods with E85, hopefully less boost, less heat, and hopefully more reliable.

 

When I did the head last month it was less than $150. Just ideas in my head.

Also I know curly is on the hunt for a cheap 1.8 so I've got some competition.

 

I'll probably end up buying a whole 1.8 car towards the fall, then fix up and "stockify" my car for sale in the spring, or at least that's the plan. More projects that way, and I'll be able to redo stupid **** I did wrong the first time a little easier.

I can't believe what na6's are listing for around my area now, craziness.

 

I want a totaled NB, whichever one has VVT+6spd+3.9.

 

Like this one. Paging 18psi, he's from Sac right?

MAZD MIATA/LS