blaen99

iTrader: (6)

I'll probably just be paying for it next time and/or not getting a car that requires bodywork in the future. If I had more time, like I used to waaay back in the day, I'd have had tons of fun doing it. As it was, it was super-stressful finding any time to work on it :(.

However, you may want to reconsider paint work. It's fast, it is bodywork that is time consuming. 6 hours for a recockulously detailed paint job (Could have done it in 2, maybe 1 but a gallon of paint and over a gallon of clear went on that Miata.) vs. 2 months for bodywork.

OMG OMG OMG OMG CURLY IRL YO!

I'm surprised I could make coherent posts yesterday, which reminds me...Sounds to me like you are the go to guy for PNW HPDE stuff, Curly, or can point me in the right direction!

I'll definitely keep that in mind, Koto. I've been going back and forth on what I want to do there - I may just steal your idea wholesale because it should be a lot quicker and easier than my other ideas.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

Okay, this is after wet sanding and basic polishing, total of about 4 hours. You'll have to excuse the dust, 'cause ----'s dusty here. I should have washed it off before I did this, but whatevs.

Total so far, assuming you do no bodywork: 6 hours painting, 4 hours sanding/polishing.

So, take a close look. I wanted to show this for a reason.

This costs about double to triple the amount per sprayable quart/gallon as interhigh brightsides - assuming you don't get retardo-expensive colors, like red. You will not get this finish with that yacht paint, or rustoleum, or anything else. IDGAF, you won't, and in getting a remotely decent finish, you'll spend double to triple to I would not be surprised at five or ten times the amount of time I spent painting and finishing this paint job.

Also, please remember this was done in an ancient, old garage with crappy compressors that have serious contamination issues. It also used harbor freight crap all around.

There's no reason to use rustoleum or that shitty yacht paint if you have any value on your time at all. None. I would have saved maybe $50 to $100 going with brightside, with a vastly inferior finish. And a much worse color, to boot.

/Sorry, I've been wanting to go off on that paint for awhile. It seems so awesome at first, but it only makes sense if your time is worth nothing.
//A show car finish, even better than what I have, is entirely possible with this paint. And it comes at a fraction of the time, but only a slightly higher cost, than that yacht paint ----.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

You know what? I take that rant back.

It costs me $138 a gallon for this particular color of paint. The cheapest brightside I can find is $33/quart, or $132/gallon. When you add in the extra sandpaper you need for brightside and that you will need more Brightside paint than this paint for the same coverage*, Brightside ends up more expensive then what I used. And, not only that, but Brightside is harder to spray!

I'm lost as to why you would use brightside completely now. It's about the same cost, and takes substantially more time (And the worst type of time - ------- sanding!) for an inferior finish. I thought Brightside was $50-$60 a gallon, not $30-$40 a quart.

*: Remember, the more you sand on it, the less coverage (aka paint) you actually have on the car.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

This is my bike that I painted with boat paint. Cost me $60.

You were saying?




No buffing/sanding. Just sprayed it. With a HF gun too.
Don't hate on boat paint is what I'm trying to say lol. It has its place

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

Hey, works fine for what you used it for 18psi. But I think our desires for paint are worlds apart when I look close at that bike (Not dissing your work, mind you, I'd remind you that you admitted you haven't sanded it) - I'd go so far as to say that what I used is a substantially better product, as after I looked into it, it's at pretty much price parity-to-more-expensive with the boat paint.

And it's easier to shoot. So, I suppose the boat paint /works/, I'm not disagreeing with that. What I am saying is that, so far, hands down this is the better product in every category. I thought that Brightside had it beaten in price, but I was wrong about that. The more I look into Brightside, the more I hate it as a car paint - sure, it /works/. I'm not disagreeing with that. My disagreement comes in that it's largely at price parity for what I picked up, and I'm getting results after 4 hours of sanding/buffing across the entire car that only one or two people in that thread managed to get after a ridiculous amount of sanding/buffing on a single, specific location - at least that I saw in the thread, YMMV as always.

Scrappy Jack

iTrader: (2)

So Blaen's negative prop stalker believes in the terrorist mantra of collateral damage and gave everyone who posted in this thread -1 per post? I am sad for the person that has that amount of time and devotes that level of effort to something so petty.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yes he believes that the ends justifies the means, and wants to burn down rome, in order to assassinate blaen.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

In honor of whoever it is, I'm going back through the thread and propsing everyone who has posted. It's all I can do, and it's a nice F U to whoever it is.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

no, when entrails are dragging, that will be a nice FU to whoever it is.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

This would indicate that your magical admin powers do not grant you the ability to identify the perpetrator?

I'm intrigued to say the least.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

It's pretty easy to hide on the internet.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

Thread soon-to-update:

The first time ever in my life, it appears I'm getting a tax return, in no small part thanks to substantial donations I made last year.

Incoming:

Rev MS3
Artech hotside
Genuine T25-framed some turbo variant that I don't know yet (2560? 2860? 2871? Who knows!)*
Built 3.9 RX7 rear end (I have had one sitting around for ages I've been intending to put in one of my RX7s, looks like I'm gonna drop it in the Miata instead to replace the lol6" rear)
Sport brakes, from 1.6
Tein Flex + EDFC
FM sways

*: EFR is god, I know. If the TSE kit was out by mid-Jan, I would have gone that route. But it wasn't, c'est la vie.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

sport brakes from a 1.6L??!!!!


you mean Flintstone brakes?

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

Naw, meant I'm upgrading from the stock 1.6L brakes.

But the stock 1.6 may as well be flintstone brakes I wasn't fully there when I was writing that update post, (insert ridiculous number here) of master's level math in a single day does that to me.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Do you already have the 1.8 brake brackets? I got a spare set for sale if you do not.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the offer Shoes, but I made sure to get the brackets with the NB sport brakes!

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

oh i okay, i get it now.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

Tein Flex are now in, in place of the old Illumina's.

Need to get pics sometime of the install.

Precision 4828 and ARRRTECH godliness possibly going in next weekend.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

So, what's this?





TRUBO!




Oh snap, adjustable wastegate comes as stock!



Also, the stock wastegate mounting bracket is completely and fully usable on the Miata! Stay tuned for pics of it!

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

Old CH..ch...churbo setup that's partly disassembled. It's now part of a scrap metal delivery to a scrapper. Piece of crap turbo is piece of crappy.

Dirty, but IDGAF right now. I had 8 hours to go from rolling the car in to rolling it back out with swapping turbos and exhausts, plus some other assorted things.



Yes, I had to cut away part of the shelf for the gorramn churbo. Not happy about that, let me tell you. I'll probably end up welding on new metal and repainting the bay.



Test mounting the 4828 turbine housing.



More test mounting, with a short visit from POPEYE to get the green-colored area knocked down so as to enable mounting of the compressor housing.

Yes, it's green 'cause that's the only futzing color I had.



More test mounting. Oil and coolant is more visible here, the CHeap CHinese CHurbo (CH..ch...churbo) leaked everything everywhere because of poorly machined threads, and I just didn't give a crap for the last week or so as I was replacing the turbo anyways.



CHRA test-fitting, and it's beautiful, beautiful billet wheel.



Temporary inlet solution, test fitting and clocking on the 4828. So far, everything looks good - even the stock wastegate mounting bracket!



Oh snap, ARTECH!



Moar Artech, and SURPRISE TEIN FLEXS making an appearance.



Final fit, still mocking up certain parts.



Another angle of the final fit. As is probably obvious, I'm re-arranging parts (See: Ziptie on an AN line to get it out of my way)

Loving this turbo so far. I'll have to post logs and boost stuffs later, but for now, this should do...something.