Wouldnt the soft top worsen things?? we can trade (borrow) if you like??

 

all u need is a soft top so u can get the wind in

 

I didn't have a/c last summer. The compressor was dead weight.
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I really dont care about the AC as much, but I would like to keep the fan fuctioning. Thats why I dont want to use all the air vents. Im also meh about the 3-gauge pillar.

 

get that dash kit that cspence was selling. or get the thing that replace the center console

 

So from I've read hawks blues are good for street use so I'll be ordering this any comments
Mazda Performance Parts: Hawk Blue Brake Pad Set - FRONT

 

It says "Track ONLY pad"

 

I swa that but the threads I saw most ppl recommended hawk blues for street use. Those are the only hawks blues I found

 

Just get some cheapy pads (autozone) for the street.

They say the blues eat rotors, and are probably pretty squeaky on the street. Get blues to swap in for track days or whatever.

 

I have hawk blue's and they work fine on the street. I have noticed that you go thru the rotors as fast as the pads. Standard rotors are cheap enough, so doesn't bother me.

 

Updates this weekend... I HAZ A HT!! and Im stuck trying to pull the shock/spring assembly from the front of the car it wont ******* come off. I just looked over at some "How to" websites and it recommends to unbolt the sway bar.

Any tips??

 

BFH method?

 

Bfh???

 

Like big f'in hammer. To bang the **** out.

 

what are you having trouble doing? front or rear? what wont budge?

 

Aight

 

The front. I unbolted the shock assembly and the control arm bolt right below it. (As per Haines manual) the I tried to play with the arm to get some clearance to remove the shock/spring, and when is almost out I cant make any more room to whiggle the ******* thing out. So I went over some pages and saw that is adviced to unbolt the sway bar and that upper bolt in the control arm by where the caliper is.

 

did you remove the upper control arm long bolt (21mm iirc)?

To do this, you need to back the sway bar bracket bolts (12mm) down until the are flush with the welded nuts. Otherwise when you start to pull it out the head of the long bolt hits the two bolts.

Once you back that out the top control arm literally drops out of the way.

I then step on the rotor to get clearance up top to pull the mount out, sometimes you need to compress the shock itself...just let go of the rotor when the mount is pinched between the body and then push the rotor back down fast and it should have more than enough clearance to clear the body into the fender.


make sense?

 

Like in step 7 here

Miata Shock removal

 

si, senior.

i dont remember unbolting the sway bar...but I guess you could to get extra droop if needed.