LMAO.
In for epic failure then.

Don't say I didn't warn you.

 

Epic failure followed by epic V8miata.net migration.

 

he may have popped it while tuning, I know the damn thing never made it back to the track after he was done with the sexy tial vband housing and new manifold/downpipe.

 

I look badass in 720p HD.

And man I shift fast.

 

Completely honest question here. Can someone explain the difference between a spark cut rev limiter and 'spark cut on flat shift'?

 

one is at redline, the other can is at a preprogramed rpm to keep them in an area where you will shift into, say 5K.

 

Gotcha, that's what I thought based off what AEM defines it's flatshift menu options, but his seemed to be at a typical red line.

 

ALL OF IT, baby!

 

The issue with implementing this is--

When you shift, you shift at redline and shift quickly. Therefore, Setting your flat shift program at a low rpm means the motor has to slow down to shift. The problem then is that even with my spiffoid 949 clutch i can shift more quickly than rpm will drop AND for boost to build.

Because of that, my flat shift is programmed for redline. Im not sure you could program it another way without cutting fuel too so rpms drop despite being WOT.

Tim there are also different practical applications for flat shift. If you are racing, there are situations where you want to stay WOT at redline and have a somewhat stable power delivery. Spark cut flat shift is violent as fug and not always consistent. Not the best for rev limiting.

 

the way I understand it is you get to preset rpm, shift without lifting, and it HOLDS said rpm without going past preset rpm but maintaining load and of course boost.

its not supposed to drop rpm unless its overcompensating or whatnot.

at least that's how it works on my thubaru

 

I vote more vids. Never mind the visuals, the car sounds sexy.








On second thoughts...... mind the visuals

 

That is a given, we always want MOAR VIDZZ

 

Sometime I want more nudez too. But not of Faeflora.

 

Ive never seen the need for a flat shift clutch switch or w/e, thats what the rev limited is for. It does the same thing, you just need to be at the limited when you shift, which you should be if youre not a ***. Also you have to shift fast enough that the revs dont drop enough to get out of the limited, which is yet again, not a problem if youre not of the faggy persuasion.

How to shift like a Bawse 101:

 

When it comes to small turbos and low boost, you're correct. A small turbo will be spooled in two tenths of a second and it doesn't take long to fully spool since you don't have to build much boost (low psi).

However, with a medium or large turbo and higher boost, you're wrong. When you shift with a medium or large turbo, even if you are above boost threshold post-shift where the turbo spools quickly (4000+RPM for a GT30 and 5000+RPM for my turbo), you still have to wait for your psi to build up. For my GT3071 it took about half a second to build back to 25psi and with this turbo it takes up to a second, depending on gear of course.

Flat shift lets me start at 15ish psi upon shift instead of 0psi. It is definitely faster.

Maybe this weekend I can take a vid that shows my boost gauge so you can see what happens without flat shift. It also sounds brutal and makes small girls into boys.

 

Also, don't forget that I have 3.5" DP and 4" exhaust

 

Idk holmes.
The above log is a 1.6 with a good sized T3/T04

If youre not letting out of the the throttle you shouldnt lose that must boost

 

OK well I used to run the GT3071 which is kinda like T3/4. At 9psi for 3 years.

EVERYTHING IS DIFFERENT AT HIGHER BOOST. THE END

 

I think I fixed my intermittent electrical problem. I went over the car and saw that my heatshrink for my oil pressure sensor (which I rewired when I pulled the motor) was not shrunk. And had fallen off the joint. This was the hot wire so I think it was touching shi and fuking shi up. I went for a drive today in the rain to the gym and all was fine. Hopefully that is that with that issue.

Also, I saw that my dead times were indeed inaccurate for my fuel pressure. My base fuel pressure is now, apparently 80psi as displayed by gauge on the regulator. Maybe adjusting that will lower the IDCs and solve my "fuel shortage" problem.

By the way, 5 foot flames are fun.

 

no 50psi vids no care.
get on that asap