Exactly. Just did a little math, if the pump is up to the task, those ID1000's will flow 700hp at 100% duty cycle at 43.5psi. 400 is nothing. Something isn't working.

FPR needed. Pump maybe needed. You don't need more PSI. You need to fix something.

 

Hmm, perhaps my morning coffee hasn't kicked in yet then.
Also 70% isn't maxed out. Even conservative folks go to 80-85 easy.

 

Sigh.

The NB regulator is supposedly 50psi uh, fixed I think? The injectors may have "run out of pump" before 70%DC.

375 wheel not crank. This is not import tuner.

I said the DW300 won't flow enough because from that chart in the DW300 thread, it only flows 25% more than the walbro.

So. What regulator should I get? I found one in purple spec.

http://www.amazon.com/Fuelab-51502-4.../dp/B00378Q1OQ



You make more power if your engine bay is color coordinated right?

 

I've heard nothing but good things about aeromotive.

One of those that told me good things about it is THIS guy
\/. Listen to him

 

Sell your sawzall so you will have some money for a fuel pressure gauge. Pinpoint the problem before trying to throw a solution at it.

 

where's the waste of time and money in that?

 

Hurf durf indeed. You really stopped at 70% duty cycle? Wtf.

Even the injector manufacturers, who go super easy recommendations suggest 80%.

That means you had another 10% whp you left on the table.

Put on a new pump, FPR and you can shoot for 1000hp all you want. DW300 + ID1000's will be enough to burn out your clutch, blow up your transmission, frag your rear end and turn your engine into a coffee table.

 

you could also try direct exhaust injection

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-...Q5fAccessories

I've had two. Both were able to take the fuel pressure and adjust/hold it at anywhere from 20psi to 80+psi with the engine off and a battery charger on (13.6 volts to the car).

 

Fuel pressure gauge first and WTF %70i?! Turn that **** up

 

Bitch

*Nice ninja edit pp face*

 

 

Srsly? That's a heck of a deal if it doesn't blow up in a mile.

 

I stopped at 70%DC because my AFRS were not richening up despite jacking the fuel map up. With the hydra the injectors can actually be run at 100%DC because the actualy signal will only be 90%.


So seriously, spoon feed me please. What regulator and gauge should I get?

 

If you want to go expensive and legit, Aeromotive. If you want cheap stuff, ebay.

 

Which aeromotive model/part number?

I have heard from reputable sources that the ebay afprs have plastic diaphragms which disintegrate leading to tears.

 

Been on for 3 years now. I could go fire the car up today and it'll sit dead steady at 40psi

 

I used this one in my Talon with both pumpgas and e85. No problems whatsoever.

http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-pa...***-regulator/

 

I've seen many of these fail, I'd recommend going with an Aeromotive.

 

I'll look up the part number for the FPR later but aeromotive only makes 3 or 4 different ones. I am not positive it is the fuel but it seems to be. I am wondering if you pump was giving up and that is what gives you the up and down dyno. I would put the 300 in there with the FPR and run it again if it doesn't work get a mani and turbo somewhere there is a restriction I am leaning more towards the turbo side of things than fuel but the fuel side is a lot cheaper and what you want to do you need it anyway.