^^^This If for nothing more than to remove the fumes that I get in the cockpit after installing the breather can.

 

No room to put that pipe at a shallower angle?

That seems like a bunch to me.

 

The pipe has to be at a 45 degree angle for the venturi effect to work.

I could have hacked it off to make it shorter but there's plenty of room above the downpipe right there-- next to the bellhousing.

Later tonight we will see if my unrestricted oil fitting makes my turbo happy.

If so, tomorrow I will.. get tuned!

 

Nice. In for massive Faeflora epic curse word fest tomorrow lol

 

Haha lol damn it

 

Hahaha lol that would be such a true statement but this is an upgrade and not a throw together patch. Faeflora I hope your turbo works if not time for a bigger one.lol

 

Let us know how many inches of vacuum its able to pull at idle and WOT. Mechanical vacuum pumps normally pull 12-15 inches IIRC

 

Prob like zero more. There's not much gas volume or velocity at 1000rpm.


In decel I see around 25mmhg or inches. I will see if vacuum pulled in decel changes.

 

25? I usually see 16 on decel.

 

I'm thinking of welding steel AN fitting to the hose end of the check valve. Looks like thin metal so it will be a delicate job with my tig welding. I hate pushing on hoses and fiddling with hose clamps especially if you have to work on it later down the road.

FWIW the Moroso check valve I got from Summit is defective. I can blow through it both directions. I went to the Napa store and found none of them they had I could blow backwards through. Echlin part# 2-29000 seems interchangeable It is a bit squattier. Slightly larger diameter and slightly shorter fits the ½” NPT nipple the same with a 5/8” hose end.

Bob

 

That's because you have no more rings. What do you see at idle? Seriously though, timing will affect vacuum too.

In my 03 factory stock longblock I saw like 27-30 on decel. 10:1 factory compression though.

 

are you saying vacuum in your *exhaust venturi thing* or intake manifold?

 

oh **** I was thinking kpa. lol nvm

 

I am referring to vacuum in the crank case. Sorry I was not clear on that before.

 

IT'S TOMORROW!

**** me. It's 1:30AM and I have to get up for work in 3 hours and my car is 100% together. This being my build thread, 100% together is not a good thing, and a motherfucking STAINLESS BRAIDED WATER LINE DECIDED TO RUPTURE INTERNALLY AND LEAK AFTER I PUT ALL THE ******* **** BACK ON MY CAR AND START IT UP.

This is after a good night of wrenching including

rtv valve cover baffles on
reroute my oil feed line
remove the stupid cold air box and heat shield
wrap the downpipe
change the oil
install the turbo and downpipe and midpipe
cut an hose and screw check valve down onto pipe (it took me ONE HOUR to screw it on. Those threads are small. Pipe was mounted up in car)


**** me, I'm just fucked. Now I have to pull downpipe, midpipe, turbo all over again. And order a damn replacement water line. FWIW when I got my kit 3 years ago, I got two consecutive oil feed lines that ruptured inside like this one. How often does that happen?



How many times can I do this in a year????

 

Here's a thought , next time it works, stop messing with it...

I read this thread as a 'what not to do' guide

Seriously though good luck getting it back running again.

 

I've personally never had a stainless steel hose of any type rupture inside the stainless steel. They've only leaked at the fitting, when some of the wire gets caught in the thread.

 

I say you work all night while you're dead tired and can't concentrate then rush to put it back together as best you can and run it on the dyno without being totally confident it wont just explode.

and bring video and regular cameras.

 

Good idea. I will just run it with no coolant.

 

lol at measuring vacuum at IM and not the breather line to the venturi...