I believe these are signs of a good bottom.

 

Why not a flush allen plug vs. a hex plug that sticks out?

 

Or a needledick?

 

that's usually me when I'm with shuiend...im good at getting the stud in the hole.

 

What else should i do before i put the motor back in?

 

I don't assume anything is needed. You already had the car running, just the VVT thing broke (and another that only you seem to be able to break) and then you had the "ZOMG GUYS MY KOOLAID REROUTE BROKED MY CLUTCH!!!!11!!1!11"

 

Anyone have a good idea of how to remove the timibg belt plate without removing the toming belt? I want to get rid of the stupid water neck puke.

 

Pull the head and see what HG you have. You know you want to do it right so you don't have to do it twice. It would also help you redeem yourself on here... do it....

 

having never put a timing belt on before or adjusted timing i didn't want to take mine apart either. Once i put it back together i realized it wasn't that bad at all. Make reference marks on the belt and cam gears up top and then on the crank pulley. That way when you put it back together you just line up the marks and you're good to go. Think it took me 20 minutes to put it back on.. twice. (prolly a good idea to make sure you have cam oil seals in before installing the belt. )

 

You could always revert to your old ways and take a sawzall to it.

I'd tell you to just man up and pull the belt, but that would probably end up delaying you another 6 weeks. lol

 

Should i be able to disengage the clutch by hand by pressing on the shift fork?

 

God no.

 

Ok i got the engine back in the car all by myself. Took about 1-2 hours, probably because i only had two hands. Took over half an hour to get the mounts in the holes. First time i have ever installed a motor.

I have to go out all night now to help someone who is djing tonight. I would rather work on my car but there are some other essential requirements for life--- in addition to boost of course.

Light is shining brightly at the end of the tunnel.

 

Oh goody!! A train.

 

Driveline is bolted up and clutch works.

Here is a neat pic of my uberengineered dowpipe. 3.5" inlet, 4" outlet. Two wideband, dual slashcut with check valves.

 

Now that's cool. Abe's work?

 

Thread is starting to fail less and win more.
Keep going.

 

^tis true my friend.

 

Yeah thats abes downpipe. Vband is pretty neat.

For reference, the outlet of my turbo is vband and 3.5".

 

Are both the slashcuts being fed from their own lines to the valve cover? And why two 02 bungs? I go back and look at pictures for answers.

Please finish now