That's one damn fine-looking motor! (Makes mine look like it was assembled by blind elves using stone mallets - which my wife might say is an apt description)

Hmmm...1 year to get to this point...sounds about right

 

Thanks for all of the nice comments guys. I also appreciate any suggestions as well. I is still NOOB.

 

Well now because of a comment from Savington, I feel like an *** for not installing the ARP main studs. What do you guys think. When I asked about this 10 months ago, the consensus was that it was just a baller item. Now Savington says it is mandatory over 250 whp. What gives?

 

Do you need a xanax prescription? Chill out dude. You're fine.

 

It probably wouldn't hurt.

 

Yeah and a gold plated inconel setup with carillo i-beams and a 949 cnc head wouldn't hurt.

 

Can you build me a heatshield for the downpipe/brake melty area?

 

Savington is one of the few people to have broken the stock bolts. IMHO, they're a no-brainer item to add while building the motor because they don't cost all that much and there's no downside to running them. I don't know that I'd pull a running motor out to replace them, though.

--Ian

 

Gold plating probably would hurt, you'd melt it right off and dribble little blobs of gold all over the track.

--Ian

 

Probably. What turbo/manifold? I only have mine to work from.

Edit: I just looked at your build. Super nice. So, is my heat shield any different than the FM one? Just curious, I haven't seen one up close.

 

I think I'll wait until next year then. I do wish I had just gone ahead and done them first though.

 

i have no clue, i suck at aluminum fab. How far is Staunton from DC? I'm about to go to sleep. I'll look it up tomorrow.

 

Will somebody please send me a tune file that I could compare to my own. Preferably someone that is running ID 1000. This car is in shambles. I had it running, king of. Not able to be driven , that's for sure. I cant get it running well enough for VEAL to even take over. something in my set up is wrong and I don't know what. I cant afford to have it towed to North Va. or I would.

 

your set up has to be pretty close to mine. want to help me out with your tune, just for reference?

 

It's not mandatory over 250whp. Proof: There are people making over 250whp on stock main bolts. Several.

 

What firmware version are you running. I can put together a basemap based of the DIY basemap stuff for you.

 

The latest version. The map is a concern, but the entire set up now is my real concern. I'm still just so confused. My ms2 took me like two hours to get running pretty well. I'm on like two months of ******* around with this thing, and it will no longer even start.
I know I changed A LOT of things since then, but gawd damn. This is frustrating!

 

1.4? Post your latest MSQ so we can look through it.

 

step 1) write down a list of strategy/approach

I'm serious.

For example, mine use to start kinda like this:
-sync timing
-set up req_fuel
-calibrate tps
-calibrate wb02
-calibrate thermistors
-do idle valve test
-set up idle valve
-start tuning idle and startup


and on and on and on and on
Otherwise you're just randomly and chaotically messing with junk and learning pretty much nothing.
Approach is everything.
Hope that helps.

 

^^ Good advice.
Inj dead time and ignition latency should be early as well
Warm-up curve
Then be cognizant of further changes that effect previous work, like, if you re-adjust warm-up, it will effect After-start enrichment. That's also a good reason to do the warm-up first. Another is EAE, which can mess with After Start until you get the Temp and RPM corrections in place to compensate.

In short, being deliberate keeps you from chasing your tail.