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Doesnt someone make a bolt in kit to put the celica alltrac stuff in just like the rally cars?
Yeah, that's what the -really- fast guys do. After driving the car 100% stock with 130hp, I can honestly say that 200hp (aka basic boltons and chipped ecu) will be plenty. Just gonna daily it and enjoy it!
Update: I dropped off everything at the machine shop last week. I decided against doing the rebuild myself, as once I got the crank apart it had some slight gouging and needed work. Turns out they will also measure and assemble the entire bottom end for $250, and they are the shop that all the spec miata guys around here use. They are also going to be measuring my rod tolerances, which I couldn't easily do in my shop (especially the small end rod/pin clearances), doing a hone, hot tanking the block, etc. They also currently have the head to a full rebuild, including new valve guide seals (supermiata ones), and full reassembly including valve clearances.
Haha! I dropped everything off last Wed, called them today and they said the head is already done. They were able to polish the scratches out of the crank, so it didn't need to be turned. I'm still using stock pistons, but with forged rods. NPR rings, king bearings, blah blah. They are going to gap the rings, measure all required tolerances, and assemble the bottom end for me. I'll just have to slap the head on the block, slap on the oil pump and accessories, and drop it back in the car. Shouldn't be too bad! I'm also ordering BE pump gears to go in my new bp4w oil pump.
The plan is still ~260whp on pump gas, ~300whp on e85. I probably should have just gone full forged but I'm sticking with my semi-built plan. No need to make 320+whp just to destroy drivetrains. I just want to drive the car. Can't wait!
Also, I'm going to be running all of this on my MSPNP (gen 1) and dw800 injectors (freshly cleaned and flowed) for now at least. I know that these aren't the best parts, but again, i'm not shooting for the moon and I just wanna drive this damn thing.
have you used that ecu and injectors together before? it aint gon be pretty
Yeah, I was running them together when the car was last running. Always ran pretty well, idled nice. I did flash the hi res code onto my MS a while back which helped idle with these injectors.
I'll probably upgrade more down the road, but it worked fine before so I'm sure it will be alright.
Engine is done, just gotta drive 2.5 hours to go pick it up, and they aren't open on weekends so that makes it interesting.
Should I get BE oil pump gears? Build is as follows:
bp4w with:
stock rebuilt head.
stock pistons
some forged rods I bought from vlad 5 years ago
king bearings
npr rings
new oem bp4w oil pump
~300whp when turned up, 250-260whp daily and on the track. e85.
I reused my stock bp6d oil pump; I think about it every now and then when I hit the rev limiter at the track.
Its one of those things that has somewhat rare, but documented failures... The prevalence of billet gears might skew that data quite a bit...
Whenever I rebuild my motor I'll probably swap to the BE pump, but for now I play the risk/cost ratio.
Machine shop is north or south from you? If you're in a real tight spot I could probably help shuffle parts.
I reused my stock bp6d oil pump; I think about it every now and then when I hit the rev limiter at the track.
Its one of those things that has somewhat rare, but documented failures... The prevalence of billet gears might skew that data quite a bit...
Whenever I rebuild my motor I'll probably swap to the BE pump, but for now I play the risk/cost ratio.
Machine shop is north or south from you? If you're in a real tight spot I could probably help shuffle parts.
At this point I'm around ~ $1500 into the motor, so I'm leaning towards "yes" on the BE gears. Would be terrible to have them shatter and lose the motor due to it, but I'm also trying to avoid the slippery slope syndrome. For example, I was very tempted to go forged pistons, almost lost sleep over it, but in the end decided to stick with the OEM slugs. Going forged would be another $600 to the build cost, and if I go forged on the internals I'd be silly to not put in a clutch that could handle 350+whp, and if I'm doing that I'd be dumb to run this setup on a MS1, and if I do that then I'd be well into the power range of destroying drive-train components, etc. I'm thinking billet gears are probably more important to my motor at the power I'm looking for than forged pistons. You have to stop the bleeding somewhere.
Machine shop is Budlongs Motorsports in Albuquerque, they are supposed to know their **** when it comes to miatas. I'll definitely get with you if I need a hand facilitating pickup, but my GF's mom lives down that way so she might be doing the pickup for me.
Looks like I'll be the last 1.6 with Greddy manifold holdout before too long. OTOH, will they be collector's items?
Thanks man. My thread should be renamed to something meme worthy, as my car has been in-op for 4 years I think now. Building a house really took it out of me, but fortunately as of recent I've been working in IT again at the best paying gig of my career, hence "paying for someone else to do it" with my motor, and buying this sweet new turbo kit.
I really just want to get this thing running so I can drive it in anger again. Also really want to get it on the track at some point.
Made some progress today. ARP head studs installed and mated the block the the head. Felpro MLS gasket and torqued the head (in the pattern shown in the FSM) to 65ft lbs in three stages (25, 45, 65ft lbs). The studs came with instructions insisting on 80ft lbs, and thanks to this forum I was well aware that 80ft lbs is excessive (See this thread.) Ran into a stupid roadblock, the front main seal gasket "kit" that I bought is fail-aids. It comes with a paper gasket for the oil pump and did not come with an o-ring where it mates to the block. My brand new OEM bp4w pump is the style that uses RTV instead of a gasket along with an o-ring (see post number #19 here.) Had to order the o-ring online.
Update: I dropped off everything at the machine shop last week. I decided against doing the rebuild myself, as once I got the crank apart it had some slight gouging and needed work. Turns out they will also measure and assemble the entire bottom end for $250, and they are the shop that all the spec miata guys around here use. They are also going to be measuring my rod tolerances, which I couldn't easily do in my shop (especially the small end rod/pin clearances), doing a hone, hot tanking the block, etc. They also currently have the head to a full rebuild, including new valve guide seals (supermiata ones), and full reassembly including valve clearances.
I too let my local machine guy assemble my bottom end. I know how to do it, but he knows more than me and for 300 bucks its 100% worth it. Good luck with your build.
I agree. It is so satisfying putting it together, all new seals everywhere, every bolt (that matters) torqued to spec as per the FSM.
I decided to keep the coolant neck despite how ugly it is, because it's what I had. It does have some nifty water ports I'll use for water cooling the turbo. This car is running some seriously OG parts, and original BEGI re-route spacer and kia waterneck, original MSPNP (though with hi-res firmware flashed), dw800's (which btw I just got back from getting cleaned/flow tested. two of them were 20cc's short before cleaning.), the same clutch I ran on my old setup (a 1.6 ACT XT clutch kit. It has way too much life on it to throw it out, it's really only seen 10k miles. They claim this kit is good for ~300 wtq, so we'll see if that's a mistake or not). I went with a standard OEM BP4W oil pump and no billet gears. Trying to not dump too much more into the setup, as really in the end I'm shooting for pretty mild numbers (~250whp on pump, ~280-300whp on e85). And I'd realy like to re-fresh the suspension setup after I get it running. Thinking budget bilstein setup .
02-05-2018, 07:08 PM
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