<p>You are overthinking it. Find a 3/8 NPT tap (from a previous turbo install?) and tap your crossover pipe (near the filter to minimize heat soak?) and slap that bitch in there.</p>

 

You could get a push in entirely plastic GM open element sensor, I would were I NA only because it's not a massive chunk of brass.

I know a 99 2.2 S10 uses one, same connector as the NPT brass one.


STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS AX32T

It's a 3/8 ID rubber grommet that holds it in the intake. I'd do that.

 

I want this now.

 

I actually have one if one of you wants it, this one came off a 96' L31, freaking tiny. More often than not GM used this sensor over the brass one, if a junkyard is nearby.

 

Ok cool i have a backup then. I just don't feel like tapping or welding anything on my intake because i'm lazy and stuff.

I'll try the OEM one first, then do the plastic GM one otherwise, i think i can make that fit in the K&N.

Deezums if you want to send that one my way, shoot me a PM.

 

I have 700lb springs. The MSM shocks are doing quite well with the 600lbs currently on front.

Do i yoloswag and push my luck and swap the 700s in?

 

Bringing this thing to Miatas in Boone next month. Need a clutch, smoked this one at MATG and it's felt weird since.

Already have a 1.6 lightweight flywheel, so it's time for that 200mm lightweight revvy swagshit.

Don't really WANT to pay for an ACT because holy ****. (I know it's the "right" answer though, so i'll probably just do that anyways) I can't hold my breath anymore for the SuperMiata unit. Clutch should hold a 200whp BP and whatever torque it makes. (90wtq? Something?) I value lightweight and fast engagement over driveability.

Options:

1) Souf Bend "Stage 2 Endurance" Kevlar TZ disc - $331. I've used their clutches in many cars, and i've loved every last one of them. The Kevlar had a nice hard bite, but a light pedal, which i'm not entirely sure i liked. But it sure as **** was easy to drive.

2) Clutchnet KL10361 disc, GP10361 pressure plate - $264. These work pretty well in the Audi world (i know that's not relevant). I like that it's pretty much as light as it gets, and don't mind the harshness of an unsprung clutch. And cheap.

3) Spec Stage 2? $334. These things still spitting springs and have stupid light feeling pedals still? I hated them a decade ago.

4) Anything else? I don't think the Exedy Stage 1 will hold the motor i plan to build.

 

4) local clutch shop servicing?

I've got 5k miles on the serviced pp (spring upgrade and resurfaced friction plate) from the local clutch shop. And they replaced friction pads (material upgrade) on a disc for a race car. Both were cheaper than new parts. These guys mostly do work on commercial grade truck clutches and have a good idea what parts are needed for a specified torque level.

 

Interesting idea....

Can they drastically change how the clutch feels? Because i hate stock Miata clutches with a passion.


How badly would i hate life with the ACT ZM1-HDR6, 6 puck unsprung? Or 4 puck unsprung?

 

Yes. The advantage you have with the shop is you can go in and talk with a clutch builder. That's what I did. I told them what torque I was aiming for. Handed them my clutchnet disk (already purchased), the flywheel and they built the pressure plate to fit. I got the complete assembly back, cut and balanced, ready to install. It was about $50 cheaper than the top ACT pp at the time. ymmv

 

6 puck would be more livable than the 4 puck. I have daily driven an ACT 6 puck before and it's not that bad.

With how easily these transmissions appear to **** the bed, is unsprung wise? That being said, the spines gave out on the unsprung disc before it damaged the input shaft in my old Evo 3.



I had the center diff locked and pulled the front axle shafts.....RWD for a week before sideways shenanigans killed the disc

 

Which Clutchnet disk did you use?

I have a 6speed, and will never have forced induction on this car. I'm not super worried about it.

My MX6 has a nasty 4 puck rated to 575ftlbs and it's honestly pretty easy to drive, but there's a rather large torque difference between the two motors, and the clutch diameter is larger.

I wish i could drive all these clutches before purchasing. Sigh. The only aftermarket clutches i've really spent time with on these cars is the FM1 and FM2. I hate the FM1, love the FM2, but isn't available in 1.6 flavr.

 

<p></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Badly. Puck clutches are livable, unsprung is not.</p>

 

Miata thing? I've driven a bunch of unsprung clutches in the past and didn't bother me much, but it's been pounded into my head since i joined here that past experiences with different cars have zero bearing on Miatas.

(I had the Souf Bend TZ Stage 2 Kevlar on the Escort, which is essentially exactly what they would sell for the 1.8 Miata and it's good. It's the lightest pedal i can deal with, has a fast engagement.)

 

<p></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I've only known people to drive unsprung ceramic pucks. And for me, it was just a pita to start/stop. They have super fast engagement, but very poor modulation. Maybe, as you say, this changes with kevlar pucks. I haven't known anyone to use such a disk though, so I can't really comment on it.</p>

 

Oh, the Souf Bend is a full face kevlar.

All my pucked clutches have been ceramic i do believe. I think there's some compound trickery going on with the one in the MX6, but it's primarily ceramic.

I'm willing to make some sacrifices in traffic for the fastest clutch i can get within budget. Car isn't being built for street, but will remain "street legal." Gonna be a lap ****. Honestly if i didn't need a clutch like right meow i'd probably just get the 949 Twin Disk and be happy about it. But that's not in budget right meow and i'd rather not do the job twice, so i'm just trying to make the best of the situation. Not interested in chucking in another stock clutch "for now."

It's REALLY hard to stall my car because gearing fwiw.

 

sounds like you want the worst daily clutch possible.
get the act un sprung 6puck.

 

I'm masochistic and am into bondage. I have burns on my arm and hand from my transmission tunnel. Heat shields were way too much weight.

 

I told them I wanted something that would hold 400ftlbs in a Miata and they sold me a 6 puck, cerametallic, sprung hub- stating it would hold 400ftlbs. Beyond that they said to go to a solid hub. I went clutchnet because I liked their sprung hub design- it's beefy.

Also found several others that moved to the clutchnet sprung hub for the same reason I did. I had a the spring cages come apart and put all the pieces between the flywheel and pp spring- so zero clutch action.

Clutchnet disk:

Spec clutch disk:

 

"Seen here: A Spec Stage 2 in its natural state."