H3AVY to H3AVYER to...H3AV1EST P1G
#1121
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I hate to say it, but +1 for the 2554 setup. I don't think i'd waste my time bolting a MSM setup to the car if i were you. You can get a plug n play 2554 setup for around ~800 invested if you shop around.. that is about what I have in mine.
it's a very fun setup.
it's a very fun setup.
#1123
Retired Mech Design Engr
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Jeff Goji is at 200WHP with. MSM and OBD2 with BEGI reflash.
Jeff Goji's 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata BSP Build Thread - Kiryu
One of many threads of his.
Jeff Goji's 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata BSP Build Thread - Kiryu
One of many threads of his.
#1125
If you have all the msm bits laying around go for it. The setup is good enough for a lower power goal and the oem-ness of it is a nice plus in california. As long as you use all the bits I doubt the average smog tech will notice a difference. Also with an intake the turbo makes ricer approved turbo noises.
#1126
Thanks gayzz
Looked at all the linked threads, also searched around some more, looks like 160-200 is possible depending on dyno and all that.
My brother has a few MSM setups laying around. I'm going to talk to him, if he lets me pick one up for cheap I'll go that route, if not then what's already been suggested. I'm working on my other cars right now, and enjoying the miata in all of its n/a glory because it is about as solid and reliable as a car can be, and I have come to appreciate a daily driver that's not on jack stands every other week lol.
Just kinda planning ahead for when I'm done with my subarus and start getting bored again with the miata in the future lol.
I thought about just selling it but I honestly love it. I'm going to hold on to it
Looked at all the linked threads, also searched around some more, looks like 160-200 is possible depending on dyno and all that.
My brother has a few MSM setups laying around. I'm going to talk to him, if he lets me pick one up for cheap I'll go that route, if not then what's already been suggested. I'm working on my other cars right now, and enjoying the miata in all of its n/a glory because it is about as solid and reliable as a car can be, and I have come to appreciate a daily driver that's not on jack stands every other week lol.
Just kinda planning ahead for when I'm done with my subarus and start getting bored again with the miata in the future lol.
I thought about just selling it but I honestly love it. I'm going to hold on to it
#1127
So completely random insignificant update:
Driving the car every single day, loving it, haven't even popped the hood for anything besides changing the oil. Its rock solid and awesome.
One minor issue I am having, well not even issue but something I need to address:
When it over 100* outside (yes, its stupid hot here right now), my A/C is pretty much non-existent when creeping in traffic or moving under 40mph or idling at a light.
This is uncool cause I drive it to work where I have to dress nice, and I don't like to walk around with sweat stains like some of the "because racecar" folks around here.
I checked the charge today, and its solid- completely full and pressure holds fine. Fans also work fine. Undertray and bumper air guide are both on.
So that leaves just 1 thing:
There is a .75" gap between my rad and the rad support. There is also about a .50" gap between my rad and my fans. Its an aftermarket rad, and the fans seal fine on sides and bottom, but on top there is this gap. Just the way the stock shrouds are made. Also the stock rad has a piece of foam where I had the gap, so I'm guessing missing that foam piece causes air to go through the gaps and not through the heat exchangers like it should.
So I think its time for moar shrowding on the top of the rad/support/fans
*edit: you can kinda see it in these old pics:
Driving the car every single day, loving it, haven't even popped the hood for anything besides changing the oil. Its rock solid and awesome.
One minor issue I am having, well not even issue but something I need to address:
When it over 100* outside (yes, its stupid hot here right now), my A/C is pretty much non-existent when creeping in traffic or moving under 40mph or idling at a light.
This is uncool cause I drive it to work where I have to dress nice, and I don't like to walk around with sweat stains like some of the "because racecar" folks around here.
I checked the charge today, and its solid- completely full and pressure holds fine. Fans also work fine. Undertray and bumper air guide are both on.
So that leaves just 1 thing:
There is a .75" gap between my rad and the rad support. There is also about a .50" gap between my rad and my fans. Its an aftermarket rad, and the fans seal fine on sides and bottom, but on top there is this gap. Just the way the stock shrouds are made. Also the stock rad has a piece of foam where I had the gap, so I'm guessing missing that foam piece causes air to go through the gaps and not through the heat exchangers like it should.
So I think its time for moar shrowding on the top of the rad/support/fans
*edit: you can kinda see it in these old pics:
#1128
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Moar shroud, seal that beetch up.
Get a roll of something with this kind of profile:
The part with the gripping "fingers" goes over the edge of the sheet metal in front of the radiator, and will easily go between the edges of the fan and the core without causing damage. Makes a good seal and (probably) won't look like BECAUSERACECAR ***
The only other thing I can think of is maybe adhesive weatherstrip foam, one of the ones with a square profile like this:
Something like that might work, and it comes in a buttload of different thicknesses.
I tried using the shiny metallic 3M ducting tape and literally taping the core to the core support and core to fans, but the adhesive couldn't handle radiator temperatures. It got soft, the tape ripped apart and cleanup was teh suk.
Something else you might look into is a legitimate condenser cleaner:
Its a professional grade kinda nasty chemical **** that you mix with water in a spray bottle, take the nose off the car, spray on the condenser, let sit, and rinse. Its supposed to do wonders with cleaning all the terribleness off the core and increasing efficiency. Remember you are talking about a 10 year old core so its had a lot of time to collect road grime.
Get a roll of something with this kind of profile:
The part with the gripping "fingers" goes over the edge of the sheet metal in front of the radiator, and will easily go between the edges of the fan and the core without causing damage. Makes a good seal and (probably) won't look like BECAUSERACECAR ***
The only other thing I can think of is maybe adhesive weatherstrip foam, one of the ones with a square profile like this:
Something like that might work, and it comes in a buttload of different thicknesses.
I tried using the shiny metallic 3M ducting tape and literally taping the core to the core support and core to fans, but the adhesive couldn't handle radiator temperatures. It got soft, the tape ripped apart and cleanup was teh suk.
Something else you might look into is a legitimate condenser cleaner:
Its a professional grade kinda nasty chemical **** that you mix with water in a spray bottle, take the nose off the car, spray on the condenser, let sit, and rinse. Its supposed to do wonders with cleaning all the terribleness off the core and increasing efficiency. Remember you are talking about a 10 year old core so its had a lot of time to collect road grime.
Last edited by EO2K; 07-16-2014 at 02:13 AM.
#1129
I'm pretty sure I am putting my 2554 on my 01 over the winter (Houston is flipping hot) and once/if this MSM motor in pieces is built I'll run that with my 2860 in the 92. 01 being more DD and autocross practice events. So there's my +1
Though Goji's car was mentioned and it is a blast at 200whp and no TX inspection worries (cant imagine CA is much fun) with the reflash, although that did need to be re-worked from its original tune.
Though Goji's car was mentioned and it is a blast at 200whp and no TX inspection worries (cant imagine CA is much fun) with the reflash, although that did need to be re-worked from its original tune.
#1130
Thanks guys.
Yeah I considered that adheisive foam, but am convinced it will fall off due to heat, so that's out I think.
I'll have to look over the other stuff.
Also today I plan to stop by a plastic sheet store and browsring around. My prev '99 I actually made one out of a sheet of real carbon fiber, looked perty cool, but I think a thin sheet of plastic will do if I can cut it all pretty and non RACECAR looking
Yeah I considered that adheisive foam, but am convinced it will fall off due to heat, so that's out I think.
I'll have to look over the other stuff.
Also today I plan to stop by a plastic sheet store and browsring around. My prev '99 I actually made one out of a sheet of real carbon fiber, looked perty cool, but I think a thin sheet of plastic will do if I can cut it all pretty and non RACECAR looking
#1131
Retired Mech Design Engr
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,009
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Thanks guys.
Yeah I considered that adheisive foam, but am convinced it will fall off due to heat, so that's out I think.
I'll have to look over the other stuff.
Also today I plan to stop by a plastic sheet store and browsring around. My prev '99 I actually made one out of a sheet of real carbon fiber, looked perty cool, but I think a thin sheet of plastic will do if I can cut it all pretty and non RACECAR looking
Yeah I considered that adheisive foam, but am convinced it will fall off due to heat, so that's out I think.
I'll have to look over the other stuff.
Also today I plan to stop by a plastic sheet store and browsring around. My prev '99 I actually made one out of a sheet of real carbon fiber, looked perty cool, but I think a thin sheet of plastic will do if I can cut it all pretty and non RACECAR looking
This is in the HVAC section and is sold to seal around room A/C units. It is urethane foam, so it should have no issues with the heat. Been working for me for a month now.
#1132
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Thanks guys.
Yeah I considered that adheisive foam, but am convinced it will fall off due to heat, so that's out I think.
I'll have to look over the other stuff.
Also today I plan to stop by a plastic sheet store and browsring around. My prev '99 I actually made one out of a sheet of real carbon fiber, looked perty cool, but I think a thin sheet of plastic will do if I can cut it all pretty and non RACECAR looking
Yeah I considered that adheisive foam, but am convinced it will fall off due to heat, so that's out I think.
I'll have to look over the other stuff.
Also today I plan to stop by a plastic sheet store and browsring around. My prev '99 I actually made one out of a sheet of real carbon fiber, looked perty cool, but I think a thin sheet of plastic will do if I can cut it all pretty and non RACECAR looking
I use that foam, it doesn't fall off. the rad doesn't get that hot!
#1133
Also the high quality silver (metal backed) "duct tape" works well. Much of my front bumper ducting is made out of that stuff.
#1135
ok I went to hoe depot today and this is the thickest they have that's self adhesive:
Frost King E/O 1-1/4 in. x 7/16 in. x 10 ft. Black High-Density Rubber Foam Weatherstrip Tape-R516H at The Home Depot
1-1/4 wide, but only 7/16 thick.
The ones thicker are non self-adhesive. So now Im not sure if I should just buy that and glue it on, or keep looking for something thicker that's self adhesive?
Its only going to be 90* the next couple days so I have some time for this lol
**EDIT: just measured it and actually 7/16" is .43" and the gaps are right around .5" in those spots so I think this actually might work after all.
Another thing I haven't considered yet either is the fact that my dual row rad is much thicker than the stocker, so maybe its harder for the fans to pull enough air through it and through the condenser at the same time when stopped resulting in this.
Frost King E/O 1-1/4 in. x 7/16 in. x 10 ft. Black High-Density Rubber Foam Weatherstrip Tape-R516H at The Home Depot
1-1/4 wide, but only 7/16 thick.
The ones thicker are non self-adhesive. So now Im not sure if I should just buy that and glue it on, or keep looking for something thicker that's self adhesive?
Its only going to be 90* the next couple days so I have some time for this lol
**EDIT: just measured it and actually 7/16" is .43" and the gaps are right around .5" in those spots so I think this actually might work after all.
Another thing I haven't considered yet either is the fact that my dual row rad is much thicker than the stocker, so maybe its harder for the fans to pull enough air through it and through the condenser at the same time when stopped resulting in this.
Last edited by 18psi; 07-17-2014 at 01:08 AM.
#1136
I used that stuff on one of my motorcycle tanks to stop a vibration. It's really handy stuff and I still keep the roll around for odd jobs. It compresses easily and is hella sticky, I would just stack it up two layers thick and compress it to size. Should be a nice snug fit with two strips of it stacked.
#1140
Ok so fun fact:
the stupid ebay all alum radiators the mounting for the stock fans sticks out way too far, leaving a huge gap. So I trim the mounting points and bring the fans closer, but guess what? the threads in those holes only go half way So I break off the two bolts holding the top of one of the fans cause it just seized up because no thread.
So we cut off the mounting points, fabricate our own, and weld them back on.
So something that should have taken 10 minutes took 3 hours total. UGH!!
Anyways, we cut new threads inside the stupid mounts, and now everything is all sealed up and properly together. What a pain.
Moral of the story: don't ever expect ebay parts to actually work correctly lol.
Pics to come
the stupid ebay all alum radiators the mounting for the stock fans sticks out way too far, leaving a huge gap. So I trim the mounting points and bring the fans closer, but guess what? the threads in those holes only go half way So I break off the two bolts holding the top of one of the fans cause it just seized up because no thread.
So we cut off the mounting points, fabricate our own, and weld them back on.
So something that should have taken 10 minutes took 3 hours total. UGH!!
Anyways, we cut new threads inside the stupid mounts, and now everything is all sealed up and properly together. What a pain.
Moral of the story: don't ever expect ebay parts to actually work correctly lol.
Pics to come