H3AVY to H3AVYER to...H3AV1EST P1G
#1301
OEM wire harness is perfect. And his MS3 is completely pnp so it doesn't have an extension harness like my last one. Rev is having me look at the actual tach circuit on the board.
Its funny cause I seem to be going through the same thing I did with my last one. Initial teething problems/issues. haha. some things never change.
Both Dimitris and Scott are really cool guys though, so I'm sure we'll figure it out.
Its funny cause I seem to be going through the same thing I did with my last one. Initial teething problems/issues. haha. some things never change.
Both Dimitris and Scott are really cool guys though, so I'm sure we'll figure it out.
#1302
It appears the issue has been identified: 1 of the resisters on the tach circuit is the wrong one. Something about 1OHM vs 1KOHM, no idea, way over my head.
So now I order the right one, and ask my buddy to solder it in for me to replace the wrong one. He's pretty decent with soldering. I'm not touching a soldering iron lol. Not my forte
So now I order the right one, and ask my buddy to solder it in for me to replace the wrong one. He's pretty decent with soldering. I'm not touching a soldering iron lol. Not my forte
#1304
Retired Mech Design Engr
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solder type
Last edited by DNMakinson; 09-19-2014 at 12:23 PM. Reason: Added link
#1305
Elite Member
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You seriously need to get you one of those 'learn to solder' kits from somewhere. Its a really solid skill to have, precisely for this kind of stuff.
Did the guy you bought it from have tach issues? I'm curious how it got snuffed.
Did the guy you bought it from have tach issues? I'm curious how it got snuffed.
#1306
I mean I can do it, I've soldered stuff before, like injector harnesses and stuff, but I just can't see myself touching a $900 unit and accidentally doing something stupid or sloppy.
My buddy on the other hand, built his own MS, and its ez-pz for him.
Yup, he did. The resistor is not missing or broken, its just the wrong one. Rev said the MS passed on the stim because it doesn't require the same amount of voltage or something, but on a car it won't work.
My buddy on the other hand, built his own MS, and its ez-pz for him.
Yup, he did. The resistor is not missing or broken, its just the wrong one. Rev said the MS passed on the stim because it doesn't require the same amount of voltage or something, but on a car it won't work.
#1319
So I haz 2 turbos:
SR20 T25G and GT2560R
both of them need to be clocked for the "traditional" FM orientation. I start undoing the bolts on the 60, one of them snaps and another is frozen and feels like it will snap if I put more pressure on it. I then start on hte 25g, and 2 of them on there also feel like they will not come out easy. Both have been drenched in WD40 prior to trying to remove.
Frustrated, I put them both back into boxes and try to figure out my next move before I break more bolts.
I'm thinking of getting a "bolt extractor kit" from HF, consisting of LH drill bits and those little punch-type extractor things. My dad has a drill press at the shop, as well as a butane torch....
Am I missing something?
SR20 T25G and GT2560R
both of them need to be clocked for the "traditional" FM orientation. I start undoing the bolts on the 60, one of them snaps and another is frozen and feels like it will snap if I put more pressure on it. I then start on hte 25g, and 2 of them on there also feel like they will not come out easy. Both have been drenched in WD40 prior to trying to remove.
Frustrated, I put them both back into boxes and try to figure out my next move before I break more bolts.
I'm thinking of getting a "bolt extractor kit" from HF, consisting of LH drill bits and those little punch-type extractor things. My dad has a drill press at the shop, as well as a butane torch....
Am I missing something?