OEM wire harness is perfect. And his MS3 is completely pnp so it doesn't have an extension harness like my last one. Rev is having me look at the actual tach circuit on the board.

Its funny cause I seem to be going through the same thing I did with my last one. Initial teething problems/issues. haha. some things never change.

Both Dimitris and Scott are really cool guys though, so I'm sure we'll figure it out.

 

It appears the issue has been identified: 1 of the resisters on the tach circuit is the wrong one. Something about 1OHM vs 1KOHM, no idea, way over my head.

So now I order the right one, and ask my buddy to solder it in for me to replace the wrong one. He's pretty decent with soldering. I'm not touching a soldering iron lol. Not my forte

 

This is an easy fix. I do wonder if MS requires the higher temp solder or if it uses the low one.

 

Reverant uses traditional 63/37, with some small dopant. Standard Sn/Pb is the correct solder to use. Rosin core does not require cleaning, but alcohol can be used if the residue is excessive.

solder type

 

You seriously need to get you one of those 'learn to solder' kits from somewhere. Its a really solid skill to have, precisely for this kind of stuff.

Did the guy you bought it from have tach issues? I'm curious how it got snuffed.

 

I mean I can do it, I've soldered stuff before, like injector harnesses and stuff, but I just can't see myself touching a $900 unit and accidentally doing something stupid or sloppy.

My buddy on the other hand, built his own MS, and its ez-pz for him.

Yup, he did. The resistor is not missing or broken, its just the wrong one. Rev said the MS passed on the stim because it doesn't require the same amount of voltage or something, but on a car it won't work.

 

Why don't you just get a full on kit from BEGi with a reflash of the ECU?

Keith

 

Seriously, let's go reliable and COMPLETE. It'll be on the road by 2020, no doubt!

 

He's got like, everything he needs to make this happen. I'm guessing time is a factor.

 

Man... you California guystake forever... we swapped in a turbo motor and had it running and driving in less than 10 hours, that includes pulling the old motor out and swapping out the front subframe too

 

With the sun year round he doesn't have to worry about getting it done before winter...

I say we put together a fund to buy him a soldering kit! These forums owe him that much!

 

lol I went over why its taking so long, so I won't waste any more time doing it again.

I looked around locally for the resistor. Nothing.

Guess I'll have to order one - its $.07 with $2 shipping

 

Radioshack should have a resistor package

 

FELPRO 60868 ~ that should be both the downpipe to midpipe and midpipe to muffler gasket on that exhaust. I told you I'd post it when I found my notes

 

3 months later, and you didn't forget.

I'm impressed

 

so the resistor came

and 99 others

lol I guess they sell them in packs of 100 only

 

Now you can make hipster jewelry and sell it on etsy and make 10,000% profit on your resistor investment

 

lol, i still have a bag of resistors from my COP project.

 

So I haz 2 turbos:
SR20 T25G and GT2560R

both of them need to be clocked for the "traditional" FM orientation. I start undoing the bolts on the 60, one of them snaps and another is frozen and feels like it will snap if I put more pressure on it. I then start on hte 25g, and 2 of them on there also feel like they will not come out easy. Both have been drenched in WD40 prior to trying to remove.

Frustrated, I put them both back into boxes and try to figure out my next move before I break more bolts.

I'm thinking of getting a "bolt extractor kit" from HF, consisting of LH drill bits and those little punch-type extractor things. My dad has a drill press at the shop, as well as a butane torch....

Am I missing something?

 

you mean a torx bit, works just as well (or poorly), but less fancy.
Get a box of 20 bits for much less than an extractor kit.