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Old 08-07-2014, 06:51 PM
  #1201  
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[QUOTE=18psi;1155484]

Anyone know what I should replace first?QUOTE]

Yeah, put a big ******* turbo on it.
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Old 08-07-2014, 06:52 PM
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I was 100% expecting that
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Old 08-07-2014, 06:56 PM
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I'm so good at making friends

watching anxiously hoping the cam sensor fixes it and you can go back to naturally aspirated misery.
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by turbofan
I'm so good at making friends

watching anxiously hoping the cam sensor fixes it and you can go back to naturally aspirated misery.


douche
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:27 PM
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seriously, you seem to have poor luck with VVTs

Probably should stick to a 99 or 2000...
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:41 PM
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RIGHT??!!

But no, I love the VEE VEE ****. Not going back
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:45 PM
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There's a recall, or at least a TSB for VVT systems on 2001 cars. They had all kinds of stupid problems.

If you part out this motor too, i got dibs on the VVT actuator.
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
Anyone know what I should replace first?
Yes, replace stock ECU with Megasquirt.

I'm only 1/2 joking here. MS will at least let you data log the issue, if it's really an issue.
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:53 PM
  #1209  
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well its good that I have an ms3 in the mail then right?
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Old 08-07-2014, 11:23 PM
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Welp,

pretty sure its the oil control valve.

I clear code, disconnect it and same exact code pops up. Tried this a couple times. Disconnecting the cam sensor causes car to die immediately.

Guess I need an OCV now. At least this is literally the easiest part to remove/install in the whole engine bay lol
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Old 08-08-2014, 09:08 AM
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That's the thing in the tower in the head, right?
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Old 08-08-2014, 09:17 AM
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Correct - the valve/solenoid on the very top of the valve cover.

I'm going to borrow one from one of my bro's long blocks just to test it out, this little sucker is pricey at $75+

*EDIT: I should add, that $75 figure was from a google search showing parts stores "replacement" ones, an OEM one from mazda is $260+

Last edited by 18psi; 08-08-2014 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 08-08-2014, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
Correct - the valve/solenoid on the very top of the valve cover.

I'm going to borrow one from one of my bro's long blocks just to test it out, this little sucker is pricey at $75+

*EDIT: I should add, that $75 figure was from a google search showing parts stores "replacement" ones, an OEM one from mazda is $260+
Try looking up what a leather NB2 seat costs... could buy two decent race seats for two Miatas for the same money.
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Old 08-08-2014, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
RIGHT??!!

But no, I love the VEE VEE ****. Not going back
I'm genuinely curious - If you break this motor down at all, how would you approach it differently to ensure win?
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Old 08-08-2014, 02:20 PM
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What do you mean? Like how would I build it? Or how would I make sure it actually starts after its built? or what?
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Old 08-09-2014, 12:45 AM
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Like how would you make sure it actually starts after it's built.

I want to know the QC steps and critical thinking you'll apply given recent experiences.
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Old 08-09-2014, 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by petrolmed
Like how would you make sure it actually starts after it's built.

I want to know the QC steps and critical thinking you'll apply given recent experiences.
I can't think of much to be honest with you.

The last engine I totally goofed on checking valve lash before first fire up attempt, but that had nothing to do with the vvt issue that kept it from starting. To this day we still don't know EXACTLY what kept it from starting. I know dopple used his own ocv and valve cover, but that's pretty much it. We still don't know what was wrong with the original ocv, which I actually removed like 3-4 times and inspected every square mm of it. They threw the motor in, and it fired right up.

I guess aside from the obvious things that I checked with the last one, this time around I'd pretty much not touch anything vvt related: cam gear isn't coming apart, ocv isn't coming out, I will literally avoid touching any of the VVT system.

We shall see.
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Old 08-11-2014, 09:23 AM
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So the saga continues:

I yanked the VVT oil control valve and inspected it, looks perfect. I tested it, works great. I then yanked the vvt feed line and inspected the filter: its perfect. I then put everything back and drove the car - drives great, no CEL. This morning I drive the car, still drives great still no CEL.

So now I'm thinking maybe its temp related, maybe the cam sensor is getting heatsoaked like crazy? I know the 99-00's have this issue due to it being up front, but so far the times it threw a CEL was when it was around 100F outside. Never in the cold.

So I dunno. I'm not throwing parts at it until I know what the issue really is.
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Old 08-11-2014, 09:45 AM
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I have a cycling partner that has some kind of mo-jo that kills electronics. He has issues with his Garmin, his cell phones, blue-tooth devices, and even his home network, that others don't seem to have.

I am reminded of him when I hear of your interactions with VVT
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Old 08-11-2014, 09:50 AM
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lol

Well the car ran great for over 2 years now, not one single hiccup, so I don't think I'm quite on the same level as him........yet
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