When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
nothing too interesting on the floor drop. We used an advanced auto kit, added a 1.5x1 bar with some captured nuts to get the recline where we want it, and are using some slightly modified jerfspeed seat mounts. We’ll weld some eyelet plates to the bottom of this, and still have the holes to drill for the rear mounts, but otherwise this is pretty much finished.
Probably just ridge and PIR. ORP would be cool, but we're scheduled to be at Mid-Ohio that weekend for IMSA. One of our Porsche customers is putting together an IMSA Pilot program with his GT4rs, which will take us to Apex for winter testing, then Laguna, Mid-Ohio, CTMP, Road America, VIR, Indy, and Road Atlanta for races this year. Going to be a busy one, but we hope to both finish Laz, have some fun, and do all the IMSA racing. Time will tell.
Still chipping away at this. The old cam seals that were sitting BNIB in my garage for years were leaking, so we splurged $20 on OE and reseal that. No pics.
We're also finishing up the interior finally. Our fab guy has been very busy, but he knocked out the new door bar, main hoop gussets, and while we're in there, we figured there was no harm in welding in a anti-intrusion bar on the "passenger" side.
After a lot of clean up, I spent a day painting the right side and assembling a few things we had sitting on the shelf, and another day painting the driver side, and installing the harness/seat.
Seat has seen better days, but that's pretty typical wear on the head rest from years of HANS use.
Opted to leave the corners unpainted, since it's already got very old black, and no one looks there anyways. And I was running out of paint. Still have a few holes to patch in the floor, trans tunnel, and the big one that was cut for the old bolt-in roll bar. You can see the extended harness bar in this pic too.
We got the OMP harness from a customer, expires in 2027, I like it a lot, unfortunately the buckles are exactly in the wrong place, and sewn in, so we'll probably switch this to a Scroth. They could be 2 inches shorter or 2 inches longer, but the only place they can't be, is exactly where they land.
Still plugging away, this is about as exciting as it gets. SM hybrid mounts installed, SM eccentrics on the shelf, getting a windshield installed soon, fabbing an intake, catch can lines, fire system lines, window net mount, bolt on a hard top, and away we go. Dyno'd it too, made 128hp. Most unopened low mileage VVT engines will make 135, I'm sure with a header/flattop/10:1 pistons and a little more tuning I'd get there and maybe more. Laz hasn't hit the dyno in ~10 years, so I'm happy with it for now. My friend was parting out his NB (the car behind me in my sig pic), so we snatched up his midpipe, muffler, and ABS knuckles. Probably won't install ABS any time soon, but it's a lot easier when you've got the knuckles installed. We have a handful of Mk60e5 units available, or we might just install the NB ABS unit since it's better than nothing.
Here's some photos shamelessly stolen from our social media guy, and a dyno of a bent wheel.
Congrats! Sick to see this thing alive again. Did you dyno it with the open intake like that? If so, likely some power to be gained there, IIRC, but the N/A guys could probably chime in better. I remember a very specific length intake required for peak HP.
Nice! Agree about the catchcan placement. Also about the inlet tract length, I did some crude experiments tuning my first ever aftermarket ecu (E8 Haltech from memory, early 2000s), and there were significant, but not earth-shattering differences, but I can't remember/find them - but I did run a cowl intake with a cone filter for the remining life of that car, 330k kms and 15 years, if that is any indication. IIRC Emilio chimed in at the time with some information, including the optimum length.
Yup I'll be interested to see what a proper intake does, that's coming soon. It was running on my ID1050x fuel map, just scaled for stock NB injectors, so it was really rich in a lot of places, so I took the opportunity to tune it when I had the chance so we stop wasting so much fuel moving it around. I expect a few things will help with power once they're finished.
Ed, yes, I need to verify the bent wheel theory, it does look bad in the video. I've gone as far as shaking it down to check for play, but that's it. Rear end has all Whiteline bushings, but I know the eccentrics suck (have a set of SM HD on the shelf waiting to be installed), so there's a chance when I put the shitty stock ones in after the bushing swap, I never fully tightened them, but that doesn't sound like me. I just swapped the knuckle/hub from my friend's car, we're going all NB ABS knuckles for future proofing, and so that particular corner just went to Sonoma and back, no play in the bearing. The axle had a tear, so so far it's the only corner I've replaced before it made a mess.
I've got NB ABS in a box that I pulled from an MSM a few years ago. Don't think I'm ever going to get around to bothering to install it into my NA. Doesn't include spindles but I grabbed the sensors, master cylinder, ABS block, etc. I threw it in the attic a few years ago but I can go dig it out and get you some pics if you want it.
Excited to see the progress on this -- I never really drive my NA vvt car except for Miata Reunion, but I can't bring myself to get rid of it as it's just a good lil car.
Grabbed the necessary stuff off a parts car. Including the two brackets required to mount the ABS module (not pictured). Grabbed all the lines except the rear, I can fab that one. Cut the harness off where it T's into the main harness, power/ground/brake switch/sensors should be all I need for now, right?? I'll probably try and just wire the ABS light to an analog input to the Motec dash. Not sure when this will be plumbed, much less wired, but at least we have the parts before the shell gets scrapped or sold.
Brake = handbrake? It needs to be wired into the handbrake warning light circuit, that is the 'off' switch lol. I don't know if it also needs to be wired into the brake light switch too, all that is far too long ago for me to remember..
It looks like the brake module in the photo, or are you referring to the electronic control unit, which was separate to the abs unit in the early cars? All the ADM cars had a single integrated unit, the earlyish JDM were separate, my 2000-build jap import NB chassis for my racecar had the two.
0
